My Eleanor w/ a color twist

Here is my rendition of the Scale Production kit, trying to replicate it as close to 100% accurate 1/25 version as I can of my 1:1.

This is my 1st thread, although I have visited this site to gawk at others builds. A little background history as to my obsession with this car....I have a 68 mustang which I've owned since 84 as it was my 1st car, which its currently in the process(6yrs) of its own build. I'll go into more detail of the car as we move along, but you can see it through my Car Domain (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2367695)site. I have literally replaced every nut and bolt and modified just about every aspect/feature in some form or fashion. The gist of the 1:1 is the 67 exterior, 68 interior and upgraded mechanic's.....Stroked 347,Paxton supercharger, Hughes Performance AOD, TCP front, UP rear, Currie 9", 03 Cobra Brakes, Be Cool twin fans, Vintage Air A/C....yada yada yada.


I have done this car in scale conversions over two dozen times(nothing with this amount of detail as mostly conversions of completed die cast), as my other obsession is trying to make this car in every scale possible...1:5 1:8 1:10 1:11 1:12 1:14 1:16 1:18 1:20 1:24 1:25 1:34 1:35 1:40 1:43 1:50 1:64 1: 87.......all the way down to versions I don't even know the scale as they can fit in the palm of my hand.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/mini%20me/NewMiniMeproject179.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/mini%20me/Picture039.jpg

If your not familiar with this car, the only thing in the past that has been remotely close as to a starting point has been the Shelby 1:18 die cast version. Everything else that has been converted outside of 1:18 has started out as a 67 Shelby or just standard fastbacks. So this Scale Productions trans kit has been a blessing, But...... has opened many more worms than it has solved. If you haven't looked just about every piece of this model outside of this Trans kit has to be modified or scratch built. So with a handful of these things out of the way...I give you my WIP thread....

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture092.jpg
In order to make this car remotely accurate to the 1:1 I have started the kit bashing process with 66 67 68 Shelby's. I was originally going to do a side by side project... 100% movie accurate and 100:% accurate Mini Me....but after these 1st couple of pieces its best to do them one at a time. I came across this kit and website by accident a few weeks back, in looking for scale GT40 wheels for my RC cars. By viewing several builds on this forum and several others my original spark/inspiration/motivation was to build a 100% accurate movie car. I was aw struck in the amazing amount of detail the was being put into the builds of this car, and thanks to Sam's build I was motivated to do my own.

This trans kit allows you to do pretty close as you can get to the 100% accurate move car exterior. While AMT Shelby kit has to have some extensive modification to the engine and suspension.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture054.jpg

This project started off rough as my 1:1 is SB 347 w/ Hughes AOD, while the 66 67 68 kits engines all have manual trans attached. Again this is my 1st model car kit in over 20yrs so I have no spare parts what so ever. This is where some members of another site came thru by sending me all the items needed to get this project off the ground.... SB Ford w/ auto trans along w/ other goodies.

Even with these contributions I had to modify the trans pan and oil pans, here what they have to resemble....

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/HughesAOD.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/Parts/1968992190_af5226dd70.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/Parts/1968995272_0c42385cc9.jpg

Here's the very 1st modified part before and after. Every step of this kit have brought me to new aspects of modeling as I now have to figure out how to make/print decals...Hughes Performance script??

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture056.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture070.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture072.jpg

This brings us to the oil pan...which I used the Cobra T pan on the 1:1. The only pan that was close comes from the 66 Shelby, the part comes in two pieces but is void of the cobra script.

By the way does anyone know if if pan by/from Historic Racing Miniatures has the script on the sides??

I needed to make molds of the Cobra valve covers to get the script text, again this is a 1st in modeling for me. I struggled with the casting mediums as rubber mediums available thru the craft store were only the "temporary" version??, which would dry out and degrade trying to mold the small parts. After 3 failed attempts I switched mediums to plaster and was semi successful. I was unable to successfully cast the full part but in this case only needed the front script. I casted the part in Apoxie Sculpt then proceeded to sand the part as flat as possible to then attach to sides of the T-pan.

As with the trans pan its also not completely accurate so I'm down to a 98% 1:1 version.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture075.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture080.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture113.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture108.jpg

Next up the Paxton Canopy....

The canopy has been a wip for several weeks now, I built the canopy in two pieces just as the original. Version 2.0 started out w/ two pieces top/bottom from plastic card shaped into basic form.

I need to invest in set a calipers as everything to this point is just eyeballed and basic trial and error.

Once the basic shape was obtained I added a glob of Apoxie sculpt and molded to basic form. An additional peice of Evergreen ribbed stock(same as trans cover) was added to cover to get the ribbed lines started. I find it very difficult to scribe out multiple parallel lines.

Still need to mold in the air intake but we are now up to date and current.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture118.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture121.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture127.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture128.jpg

I do need help...

I'm currently working on the air intake flanges, trying to eyeball things isn't working to well as I'm redoing everything multiple times in different sizes. Would anyone know if there is some sort of reference available to 1:1 pipe sizes to scale tubing?? If you know can you provide scale dia for like ie........1/2" 3/4" 1" 1 1/4" 2" 3"...

For this particular task I need to know what would be the correct size for the 3" air duct tubing
Also working on the headers so 1:1 sizes 1 1/4" 1 1/2" 2"

For the mathematically challenged individual that I am the Evergreen equivalents would be nice.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture138.jpg

sweet, this is going to be great!! can't wait bro.

To convert from fractions to decimals, divide the numerator by the denominator until you reach a remainder of zero.

Example:
http://www.gre-test-prep.com/articles_imgs/564/pic4.gif

Simply add one more zero to .45 to get .450"

Now in order to make it to the scale you are working with, just divide it by the demominator (the bottom number in the scale fraction) and you will have your exact answer... so if you are using a 1 1/2" pipe in real life and want to duplicate it in 1/25, here's your process. keep the 1 as a whole number, divide the fraction: 1 divided by 2 equals .5, add 2 more zeros to make it into the thousandths and your result is 1.500. Now divide 1.500 by 25 and your pipe/hose/body line should be .060" or sixty thousandths.



I use this page a LOT to get sizes as correct as possible when I'm scratch building. Then I use a dial caliper, micrometer and other various measuring devices to get it perfect...or as close to it as I can.

if you search a little on that page, you will also find how to convert from SAE to Metric...or inches to mm.

Sorry, I forgot to post the page...here it is.
http://www.algebrahelp.com/

Thanks


That little math refresher course was perfect, It was so perfect that I even understand it.

I do however need to invest in some calipers for this little quirk of mine to even have a purpose and be effective.

Sweet!!

vikingz, those parts are looking good! I can´t wait to see more!

Sam I'm jonesing for an update from your version...

Hook us up.:runaround:

To convert from fractions to decimals, divide the numerator by the denominator until you reach a remainder of zero.

Example: :banghead::screwy::icon16::lol2:

Great math but for 1/25 scale all you need to remember is that 1" = 1mm.

Example: 1.5" pipe = 1.5mm or .060". Evergreen prints both metric and standard measurements on their packages so you're good to go. You'll have to fudge a few thousandths here and there, for example they don't carry a 1.75mm for rollcages but 2mm looks close, even though a 2" rollcage isn't exactly common.

Here's what Evergreen carries:
http://evergreenscalemodels.com/Shapes.htm#Round%20Rod

A digital mm/inch caliper and steel rule from Harbor Freight is all I use with the occasional calculator. Google can also come in handy; for example type "1.5 inches to mm"

Well I solved my "writers block" guessing issues and got myself a set a calipers this weekend. It seems to have totally changed my approach (good or bad, haven't decided yet) to building this model. Now I generally have my answer before I even start... I just make the part to specs, breaking it down to shape by shape, alot different than the approach of sculpting ... how it looks to the eye.

So with this technical approach I made the new canopy flanges(3.0) and used a peice of 1/8 plumbing solder and a glob of Apoxie Sculpt to construct the canopy intake. Keep in mind I obviously still need some fine tuning and tweeking(putty still wet) as it seems to never stop till the parts are painted and mounted.

I just wanted to show the process.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture149.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture163.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture165.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture157.jpg

Nice work, I've got a GT350 in the works and the oil pan idea is great!

I can't take credit for this as an original idea but I thought it would add it as I disassembled the heads to work on the headers. I couldn't find tubing small enough to work so I found and used a clear wire tie wraps that come with my daughters toys as the tube. The dipstick is from a strand of 10awg copper wire that I was able to shape and hammer flat. I wont finalize the end length till I know there is room for everything as its a WIP.

I give you my functional dipstick.......

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture176.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture182.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f195/vikingz68/scale%20minis/Picture183.jpg

Now THAT´S detail!! Keep it up!