Rear Heater Access
Rodc
06-27-2009, 05:22 PM
Need to replace the REAR blower motor resistor on a 2003 Montana because only have high speed operation.
Can't see an obvious way of getting at the blower motor assy. I assume I have to remove the entire lower portion of the interior panel? To do so I would need to remove the seatbelt anchors because they are bolted thru the panel.
If so, whats the best way of going about that?
Can't see an obvious way of getting at the blower motor assy. I assume I have to remove the entire lower portion of the interior panel? To do so I would need to remove the seatbelt anchors because they are bolted thru the panel.
If so, whats the best way of going about that?
Rodc
06-29-2009, 03:52 PM
No takers yet ?
Anyone ?
Anyone ?
Rodc
07-07-2009, 08:50 PM
Has no one had to work on the rear heater on these vans?
roadrunner2
07-07-2009, 09:38 PM
Has no one had to work on the rear heater on these vans?
I guess noone has been here lately, including me.
If you have a Haynes manual for your van, you'll have NO problem doing this.
If not, I'll see if I can condense the procedure.
You'll need a Yorx wrench for the anchor bolts.
Yes, remove the seat belt anchors by pulling back the carpet at the bottom.
The rear seat belt retractors are removed after unsnapping the trim cover and detaching the anchor bolt.
Pry outward at the top of the upper rear quarter trim panel to detach the clips, then pull upward to disengage the locating tabs at the bottom. DO NOT pull the panel straight off or the tabs at the bottom will break off.
Use a trim panel tool to pry off the rear sill plate.
Remove the cargo net retainers (if equipped).
Remove the accessory panel service cover and the accessory panel mounting screws, pull the panel outward and disconnect the electrical connectors from the rear.
Depress the retaining tab to release the cup holder from the rear trim panel.
Finally, Detach the trim panel retaining clips (11 of them). You might want to purchase a few as these are plastic and will likely break.
In order to make an attempt at saving the clips, position the forked end of the flat bladed tool over the clip when prying outward.
After gaining access to the blower motor you should be able to see the resistor mounted on the side of the housing facing you.
Hope that helps.
I had a 2000 Silhouette for 6 years but fortunately, I had no rear blower problems. Come to think of it, no front blower resistor problems either. Had to replace the electric blend door motor though.
Post back how you make out ok?
I guess noone has been here lately, including me.
If you have a Haynes manual for your van, you'll have NO problem doing this.
If not, I'll see if I can condense the procedure.
You'll need a Yorx wrench for the anchor bolts.
Yes, remove the seat belt anchors by pulling back the carpet at the bottom.
The rear seat belt retractors are removed after unsnapping the trim cover and detaching the anchor bolt.
Pry outward at the top of the upper rear quarter trim panel to detach the clips, then pull upward to disengage the locating tabs at the bottom. DO NOT pull the panel straight off or the tabs at the bottom will break off.
Use a trim panel tool to pry off the rear sill plate.
Remove the cargo net retainers (if equipped).
Remove the accessory panel service cover and the accessory panel mounting screws, pull the panel outward and disconnect the electrical connectors from the rear.
Depress the retaining tab to release the cup holder from the rear trim panel.
Finally, Detach the trim panel retaining clips (11 of them). You might want to purchase a few as these are plastic and will likely break.
In order to make an attempt at saving the clips, position the forked end of the flat bladed tool over the clip when prying outward.
After gaining access to the blower motor you should be able to see the resistor mounted on the side of the housing facing you.
Hope that helps.
I had a 2000 Silhouette for 6 years but fortunately, I had no rear blower problems. Come to think of it, no front blower resistor problems either. Had to replace the electric blend door motor though.
Post back how you make out ok?
Rodc
07-09-2009, 07:06 PM
RR2, thanks so much for the detailed explanation. Confirmed my hunch on how to get at it but I really hate tearing things apart for no reason.
Will try to pick up the Haynes manual. Wasn't sure if it was worth the money or not. Usually not very detailed or accurate.
Hope to get this done over the weekend and will post back with the results.
Thanks again.
Will try to pick up the Haynes manual. Wasn't sure if it was worth the money or not. Usually not very detailed or accurate.
Hope to get this done over the weekend and will post back with the results.
Thanks again.
Rodc
08-22-2010, 07:24 AM
I guess noone has been here lately, including me.
If you have a Haynes manual for your van, you'll have NO problem doing this.
If not, I'll see if I can condense the procedure.
You'll need a Yorx wrench for the anchor bolts.
Yes, remove the seat belt anchors by pulling back the carpet at the bottom.
The rear seat belt retractors are removed after unsnapping the trim cover and detaching the anchor bolt.
Pry outward at the top of the upper rear quarter trim panel to detach the clips, then pull upward to disengage the locating tabs at the bottom. DO NOT pull the panel straight off or the tabs at the bottom will break off.
Use a trim panel tool to pry off the rear sill plate.
Remove the cargo net retainers (if equipped).
Remove the accessory panel service cover and the accessory panel mounting screws, pull the panel outward and disconnect the electrical connectors from the rear.
Depress the retaining tab to release the cup holder from the rear trim panel.
Finally, Detach the trim panel retaining clips (11 of them). You might want to purchase a few as these are plastic and will likely break.
In order to make an attempt at saving the clips, position the forked end of the flat bladed tool over the clip when prying outward.
After gaining access to the blower motor you should be able to see the resistor mounted on the side of the housing facing you.
Hope that helps.
I had a 2000 Silhouette for 6 years but fortunately, I had no rear blower problems. Come to think of it, no front blower resistor problems either. Had to replace the electric blend door motor though.
Post back how you make out ok?
Well I finally got around to getting this done, a year later. Your instructions were completely wrong. I spent 2 hours doing what could have been a 5 minute job. I blindly followed your instructions instead of thinking as I went. AFTER I got the entire side panel removed, I discovered that the blower motor AND resistor were located in behind the accessory service panel. No need to unbolt any of the seatbelts or take off ANY of the trim panels. Just pop off the accessory panel (two christmas tree tabs) and the resistor is right there.
Oh, and the resistor had not burned out. One of the soldered connections had broken free of the circuit board. Result of whats called a cold solder joint or manufacturers defect. Hope this is able to help others with the same problem.
If you have a Haynes manual for your van, you'll have NO problem doing this.
If not, I'll see if I can condense the procedure.
You'll need a Yorx wrench for the anchor bolts.
Yes, remove the seat belt anchors by pulling back the carpet at the bottom.
The rear seat belt retractors are removed after unsnapping the trim cover and detaching the anchor bolt.
Pry outward at the top of the upper rear quarter trim panel to detach the clips, then pull upward to disengage the locating tabs at the bottom. DO NOT pull the panel straight off or the tabs at the bottom will break off.
Use a trim panel tool to pry off the rear sill plate.
Remove the cargo net retainers (if equipped).
Remove the accessory panel service cover and the accessory panel mounting screws, pull the panel outward and disconnect the electrical connectors from the rear.
Depress the retaining tab to release the cup holder from the rear trim panel.
Finally, Detach the trim panel retaining clips (11 of them). You might want to purchase a few as these are plastic and will likely break.
In order to make an attempt at saving the clips, position the forked end of the flat bladed tool over the clip when prying outward.
After gaining access to the blower motor you should be able to see the resistor mounted on the side of the housing facing you.
Hope that helps.
I had a 2000 Silhouette for 6 years but fortunately, I had no rear blower problems. Come to think of it, no front blower resistor problems either. Had to replace the electric blend door motor though.
Post back how you make out ok?
Well I finally got around to getting this done, a year later. Your instructions were completely wrong. I spent 2 hours doing what could have been a 5 minute job. I blindly followed your instructions instead of thinking as I went. AFTER I got the entire side panel removed, I discovered that the blower motor AND resistor were located in behind the accessory service panel. No need to unbolt any of the seatbelts or take off ANY of the trim panels. Just pop off the accessory panel (two christmas tree tabs) and the resistor is right there.
Oh, and the resistor had not burned out. One of the soldered connections had broken free of the circuit board. Result of whats called a cold solder joint or manufacturers defect. Hope this is able to help others with the same problem.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026