broken fiberglass effect :(

hey gang
can anyone help me, teach me, provide some links on how to make a broken fiberglass effect as if the cars just crashed into something?
if you look at the edges of the break line theres a lot of this hairy fiber goin out.. thats the effect im looking for:smile:

perhaps something.. like this ford gt.. hehe..
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/1984/3109865879d52d65486co.jpg

THX!!!!

Not sure, but the first step would be to find a material that looks like fiberglass in 1/24 scale. I would think that you would dremel out the area the damage would be in, like making rust holes, but you thin out the plastic from the from and not the back. Using super glue (or epoxy), glue down a layer of the material into the depressed area and once dry...paint it a suitable fiberglass color and seal it. Then take more or the material and layer it on top and use some filler putty to fill in the depression and some everything out...just leave enough of the material sticking out for the next bit. After it dries and you paint the part, or whole car, grab the bit of material sticking out and rip it off. I would think that would give you the effect you are looking for.


:biggrin:

Torn thick tissue/dried out wet wipes soaked in diluted white glue or CA glue would be something I would try experimenting with for that effect. It might work. :2cents:

thx!! i'll get busy tryin both technique tomorrow!! :)

Although I haven't tried it, I would apply superglue to the broken edge, and use a flocking material for a fiber-like effect. Then paint the edge accordingly.

Secret

Have a look at liptons pyramid teabags......they look just like fibreglass

Although I haven't tried it, I would apply superglue to the broken edge, and use a flocking material for a fiber-like effect. Then paint the edge accordingly.

Hiro beat me to it. I was going to suggest white flock for the hair effect of the fiberglass. Pour it on a strainer and shake some off onto the area you're working on. If you decide to try it I'd suggest experimenting with white glue, super glue and even MicroScale Micro-Metal Foil Adhesive. White glue might be too thick to use on small areas and, depending on which you use, crazy glue might dry too fast for you to work with. MicroScale is for Bare Metal Foil but it dried clear and becomes pretty sticky. It also gives you a couple minutes before it dries so maybe this will be a good alternative to white glue or crazy glue.

Although I haven't tried it, I would apply superglue to the broken edge, and use a flocking material for a fiber-like effect. Then paint the edge accordingly.

Never tried it, but I was thinking you could use paper medical tape. It's adhesive and you fray the edges. I use a version for street vehicle seat belt materials.

http://www.vitalitymedical.com/isroot/Stores/VitalityMedical/picxl/MMM1530.jpg

i'd be tempted to try and remove a small section of the body where you want the crack to be, then re-fill/repair it using a tissue (or whatever fibre) and glue mix, then actually re-crack it.
You could even save the cracking part until you've finished the painting.

Personally, I think it is best NOT to try to simulate the hairy fibers- and this pic is a terrific example of why.

On my screen, this pic is actually bigger than a 1/24 model. And I can't really see any fibers. Yes, we all know that in 1:1 broken fiberglass often has a hairy edge. But that does not mean that it should be visible in 1/24. If you try to make the fibers visible, it will look very wrong.

To me the interesting and important details visible are:
-The broken material is very thin. If you show any broken edges, make sure that you thin the plastic from behind. In 1/24, broken fiberglass parts will look eggshell thin.
-There is very little bending of the bodywork. Unlike metal, FRP breaks instead of bending or crumpling. So a couple of broken lines will do nicely.
-The edges of the break lines show a little bit of fiberglass color- but only a little bit. Drybrush the broken edges with very light grey or tan and it will look great- but a little bit goes a very long way.

To make this kind of damage, I would cut the bodywork with a jeweler's saw in the places that the breaks will be. Then carefully grind away the thickness of the plastic edges from the backside until they are paper thin. Do a little bit of gentle bending of the body to open up the gaps, but not too much. Prime and paint as normal, and drybrush the grey/tan on the break edges. Done.

I think that trying to mess with showing invisible FRP fibers will come out looking very strangely. :2cents:


Don't think at all about 'what the broken material is and what it should look like'. Get pics of the type of damage you want to simulate, and simply make your model look like the pics. That way you will get it right- no matter if the real car is made of steel, FRP, cardboard, plywood or cheese. Just copy what you see....

lol later i have the similar thoughts to you mpwr.. im still trying things out ill post pics soon as i get something that looks similar to "broken fiberglass" thx guys!!!