How can I fix textured after Cleacoating

Hello again...
I cleacoat (with zero lacquer) and I take this in 4th layer... :loser:
http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh451/gtziaf/Disaster1.jpg

http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh451/gtziaf/Disaster2.jpg

What caused it?
Can I fixed?
Thanks a lot... :smooch:

I believe you need to add more thinner to your clear. If it gets any drier you'll start spraying spiderwebs. You'll need to polish out the texture first before applying more clear.

I believe you need to add more thinner to your clear. If it gets any drier you'll start spraying spiderwebs. You'll need to polish out the texture first before applying more clear.

How can I polish this textured?
Rubbing it with Tamiya compound or Sanding it?
Thanks again...

How can I polish this textured?
Rubbing it with Tamiya compound or Sanding it?
Thanks again...

By the looks of it you should start with a 2000 grit (or more) wet sanding and than go with Tamiya coarse and fine compounds.

By the looks of it you should start with a 2000 grit (or more) wet sanding and than go with Tamiya coarse and fine compounds.

Thanks a lot!!!!!

Also, personally, I would recommend that next time you paint the window trims after applying the clear coat because a) rubber trims are not usually glossy; b) if you have problems with your clear coat it will be easier to polish out and; c) if you have any leakage during painting the trims, clean up will be somewhat easier on a gloss finish.

Yes, this is definitely a case of needing more thinner in the clearcoat when you spray.

To fix it, I would recommend NOT wetsanding. Dry sand it with 2000 grit or finer until the surface texture is more or less flat. Blow the surface dust off with your compressor, and apply another layer or two of well thinned clearcoat. Give the clearcoat a few hours to outgas and inspect the surface. If you need to, repeat the process again (and again)- sand it gently to remove texture, apply more thinned clear, wait and inspect it. You should be able to put a final layer of clearcoat on so that it is smooth and needs no sanding.

Wetsanding is very likely to leave contaminent deposits on the surface- which is a very bad thing if you want to apply more paint over it. Wetsanding also offers no real advantage over dry sanding. You can do as good a job dry as you can wet, without the contamination risk. Doing it dry will also allow you to see your sanding progress- wetsanding hides this completely, so you are essentially sanding blind.

Wetsanding is very likely to leave contaminent deposits on the surface- which is a very bad thing if you want to apply more paint over it. Wetsanding also offers no real advantage over dry sanding. You can do as good a job dry as you can wet, without the contamination risk. Doing it dry will also allow you to see your sanding progress- wetsanding hides this completely, so you are essentially sanding blind.

Wet sanding is healthier for the modeler.
If you decide however to sand it dry, use a mask against very fine particles. :)

Of course each to his own but TBH I have found wet sanding to be in fact a little easier than dry sanding because it seems to me to be less aggressive thanks to the lubrication of the water; therefore I am less likely to burn through the color coat. A quick wipe on my t-shirt dries the part I am sanding and I can see how things are progressing.

I do think that anyone would be well advised to wash the the body after dry sanding anyway to make sure that all grit is gone. Any easy fix for dried water stains is to buy a gallon jug of distilled water for a couple of bucks at the gas station and use that for the final rinse - no stains then (I keep it in the laundry tell my wife that it's for use in the steam iron to prevent calcium buildup - and she buys that! hehe). It's worth remembering that when drying a part with your airbrush, the airflow will tend to charge the plastic with static electricity which in turn can increase the likelihood of it attracting dust.

I suppose there's not really much difference between the two approaches - they both use an abrasive to level and flatten :) - but it's sure worth trying both to learn which works best for your individual style/hand.

Any easy fix for dried water stains is to buy a gallon jug of distilled water for a couple of bucks at the gas station and use that for the final rinse - no stains then (I keep it in the laundry tell my wife that it's for use in the steam iron to prevent calcium buildup - and she buys that! hehe).

I'll have to try this out, hopefully my girlfriend will be as understanding as your wife! :D

I'll have to try this out, hopefully my girlfriend will be as understanding as your wife! :D
Dude, distilled water is a breeze. Try explaining away that dehydrator..... :iceslolan

Dude, distilled water is a breeze. Try explaining away that dehydrator..... :iceslolan

I had some troubles explaining why I bought 2 compressors, but she agreed that I can keep one of them!
Maybe I'll have to do the same thing with the dehydrator, buy 2 and sell one of them! :D

Great stuff - you guys are so devious. You make us all proud :)

Great stuff - you guys are so devious. You make us all proud :)
I'd prefer to call it: creative, ingenious, imaginative, problem solving....:iceslolan
(but maybe that's just my guilty conscience speaking... LOL)

The paint on that car looks really thick. I guess I'm in the minority on this, but I'd forget sanding entirely and completely strip the car.

Some of the panel gaps are almost filled with paint and the edges are looking pretty soft. If you sand down all that OP and add more coats, the gaps will become even shallower and fainter. Some - like those around the nose - look like they'll disappear entirely.

If you want the car to look clean, crisp and detailed, go back to bare plastic and start over with thin coats.

Ddms

I do think that anyone would be well advised to wash the the body after dry sanding anyway to make sure that all grit is gone. Any easy fix for dried water stains is to buy a gallon jug of distilled water for a couple of bucks at the gas station and use that for the final rinse - no stains then (I keep it in the laundry tell my wife that it's for use in the steam iron to prevent calcium buildup - and she buys that! hehe).

I agree 100%. And oily fingerprints can also ruin a paint job. As part of my "Anti-Fisheye Program," I scrub everything with soapy water before I paint it.

Because it doesn't contain minerals, distilled water does work well, and it's also available at supermarkets. But lately I've been blotting my cars dry with an old t-shirt. Works well, so long as I don't accidentally leave any beads of water to dry on the car.

Ddms

Hello Again…
In first I want to thanks for the advices and for useful and fast help.

After sanding, cleacoating (2 layers), sanding again, cleacoating (another 2 layers), rubbing the situation its must better.
The waxing stage, is the next step…

http://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh451/gtziaf/WIP_Testarossa_89.jpg


Thanks again.
Follow my wip here : http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=948319

I would agree with Didymus, strip it back to plastic and start over. Use a good primer, wet sand that back to get rid of any texture, apply the base colour properly thinned and build it up slowly (this will also lessen the overall texture and orange peel effect) the application of the base colour can really make a big difference to the way the clear performs. Next apply the clear. From your pictures you need to add a lot more thinner. It looks like it has gone on dry and a little 'powdery' and also the surface looks a little 'bubbled' Test the thinning ratio's on some old plastic spoons, they are great for practicing your painting techniques on, without ruining your model.
Also you never said if it was 2K or 1K Zero lacquer..??? Although people will tell you to build up the lacquer in mist coats, I am not a believer in this technique. Yes, you can start off with a few light coats, but you will never get the best finish this way. You must apply wet coats at some point at the end for the best finish and minimum polishing work. Now I am not saying that you blast it on so thick that it will run and sag. There is a vast difference between that and a controlled wet coat, the magic point where it is wet but a long way from being thick and running. You have to find this magic 'zone'

Thanks Steve... :wink: