Questions on Emissions equipment
Dynamic Sound
06-11-2009, 07:25 PM
Hey, I have a 84' Monte Carlo with the 305, runs fair but my question regards the electrical work, when I bought the car, it had headers, intake and 4 bbl carb, all non-egr. The problem is all the wires from the original set up are still there, unhooked and everywhere, some cut, some just hanging, as far as the harness goes, is it possible for me to pull out the wires to the ECM and replace with a performance ignition box for the distributor and such and forget the rest of the mess, or no? also there are a bit of unhooked/broken vacuum lines to, any help to bring the motor up to snuff would be appreciated. I really don't have the time nor money to just pull the motor and drop in a 350 (although I'd love to) so any ideas/advice would be great. Thank you
curtis73
06-11-2009, 11:43 PM
If you want to ditch the electronic stuff, just change anything that is electronic. The carb that was on it was a E4ME rochester Qjet. The computer used feedback from sensors to adjust idle and cruise fuel ratios. The distributor should be a plain old vacuum advance HEI.
Swapping to a non-computer setup should be as simple as swapping the carb and using a sledge hammer on the computer, but its hard to tell what all has been done.
Here are some things to consider: EGR has absolutely no effect on HP or TQ. It is only active during part-throttle where it introduces exhaust gasses into the intake to reduce NOx and help MPG. The previous owner probably disabled it thinking that it would add HP, but it didn't. The only problem is that the distributor is curved (and the carb's cruise mixture) based on the fact that EGR is present. If you remove the EGR, you'd have to richen the cruise mixture and/or retard cruise ignition advance.
At this point, you'll have to make a decision; determine first what you have in place, then determine whether re-adding EGR or retuning the distributor and carb is the easiest route.
The other school of thought is: if it runs, who cares? :) The 305 (no offense) was a low compression, tiny-cammed, wheezer-headed engine. Seriously. Some of them were as low as 7.5:1 compression and had cams in the 170-degree duration range. There are ways to perk it up, but before you spend money on this 305, strongly consider the fact that you can swap in a 275 hp junkyard 350 for $300 and no one would know the difference.
Swapping to a non-computer setup should be as simple as swapping the carb and using a sledge hammer on the computer, but its hard to tell what all has been done.
Here are some things to consider: EGR has absolutely no effect on HP or TQ. It is only active during part-throttle where it introduces exhaust gasses into the intake to reduce NOx and help MPG. The previous owner probably disabled it thinking that it would add HP, but it didn't. The only problem is that the distributor is curved (and the carb's cruise mixture) based on the fact that EGR is present. If you remove the EGR, you'd have to richen the cruise mixture and/or retard cruise ignition advance.
At this point, you'll have to make a decision; determine first what you have in place, then determine whether re-adding EGR or retuning the distributor and carb is the easiest route.
The other school of thought is: if it runs, who cares? :) The 305 (no offense) was a low compression, tiny-cammed, wheezer-headed engine. Seriously. Some of them were as low as 7.5:1 compression and had cams in the 170-degree duration range. There are ways to perk it up, but before you spend money on this 305, strongly consider the fact that you can swap in a 275 hp junkyard 350 for $300 and no one would know the difference.
oldblu65
06-12-2009, 01:24 AM
Do you have to pass emission testing where you live ? If so , all that emissions junk will have to be restored .
curtis73
06-12-2009, 07:39 AM
depending on the emissions test, yes. Some places just do a visual for a cat, or just a sniffer. Its possible to still meet emissions requirements without all the equipment.
But you're right, if they do a complete visual and have to check for EGR and a smog-legal intake, he might be up the creek
But you're right, if they do a complete visual and have to check for EGR and a smog-legal intake, he might be up the creek
Dynamic Sound
06-13-2009, 03:35 PM
If you want to ditch the electronic stuff, just change anything that is electronic. The carb that was on it was a E4ME rochester Qjet. The computer used feedback from sensors to adjust idle and cruise fuel ratios. The distributor should be a plain old vacuum advance HEI.
Swapping to a non-computer setup should be as simple as swapping the carb and using a sledge hammer on the computer, but its hard to tell what all has been done.
Here are some things to consider: EGR has absolutely no effect on HP or TQ. It is only active during part-throttle where it introduces exhaust gasses into the intake to reduce NOx and help MPG. The previous owner probably disabled it thinking that it would add HP, but it didn't. The only problem is that the distributor is curved (and the carb's cruise mixture) based on the fact that EGR is present. If you remove the EGR, you'd have to richen the cruise mixture and/or retard cruise ignition advance.
At this point, you'll have to make a decision; determine first what you have in place, then determine whether re-adding EGR or retuning the distributor and carb is the easiest route.
The other school of thought is: if it runs, who cares? :) The 305 (no offense) was a low compression, tiny-cammed, wheezer-headed engine. Seriously. Some of them were as low as 7.5:1 compression and had cams in the 170-degree duration range. There are ways to perk it up, but before you spend money on this 305, strongly consider the fact that you can swap in a 275 hp junkyard 350 for $300 and no one would know the difference.
Thanks for the info, I know all about the crappy reputation the 305 has, I have (and still are) thinking of a motor swap, its not really the money, just time to do it, but if that should be all you have to do, I might just pull the rest of the egr stuff out, tune the carb and adjust the distributor, and be done. they do a sniffer test here, but as far as i know they dont check under the hood. not looking for any amazing hp numbers anyway, just a daily driver (maybe someday) haha.
Swapping to a non-computer setup should be as simple as swapping the carb and using a sledge hammer on the computer, but its hard to tell what all has been done.
Here are some things to consider: EGR has absolutely no effect on HP or TQ. It is only active during part-throttle where it introduces exhaust gasses into the intake to reduce NOx and help MPG. The previous owner probably disabled it thinking that it would add HP, but it didn't. The only problem is that the distributor is curved (and the carb's cruise mixture) based on the fact that EGR is present. If you remove the EGR, you'd have to richen the cruise mixture and/or retard cruise ignition advance.
At this point, you'll have to make a decision; determine first what you have in place, then determine whether re-adding EGR or retuning the distributor and carb is the easiest route.
The other school of thought is: if it runs, who cares? :) The 305 (no offense) was a low compression, tiny-cammed, wheezer-headed engine. Seriously. Some of them were as low as 7.5:1 compression and had cams in the 170-degree duration range. There are ways to perk it up, but before you spend money on this 305, strongly consider the fact that you can swap in a 275 hp junkyard 350 for $300 and no one would know the difference.
Thanks for the info, I know all about the crappy reputation the 305 has, I have (and still are) thinking of a motor swap, its not really the money, just time to do it, but if that should be all you have to do, I might just pull the rest of the egr stuff out, tune the carb and adjust the distributor, and be done. they do a sniffer test here, but as far as i know they dont check under the hood. not looking for any amazing hp numbers anyway, just a daily driver (maybe someday) haha.
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