How to power stearing flush and change plugs?
blackonblackfx4
06-09-2009, 07:22 PM
Hi Im a new member to this Forum.
I have a 02 Sunfire GT with 160,000 km's and the power stearing looks pretty dark and acts kinda funny. How do you flush it out and change it to new fluid? or would this be a bad idea?
And how do you change the spark plugs? hard or farily easy... what kind of plugs work best?
I have a 02 Sunfire GT with 160,000 km's and the power stearing looks pretty dark and acts kinda funny. How do you flush it out and change it to new fluid? or would this be a bad idea?
And how do you change the spark plugs? hard or farily easy... what kind of plugs work best?
J-Ri
06-09-2009, 07:54 PM
Welcome to AF!
In the future, post in the appropriate forum, the "performance" forum is for stuff that adds horsepower.
Flushing the P/S is a great idea, and should be done every 30k miles or so. Less often if very little turning is done. The only way to do it at home is to remove the return hose from the pump, run it into a bucket and plug the return fitting on the reservoir. You'll need a second person for the rest. Fill the reservoir to the top and have your friend start the engine and let it idle while turning the steering wheel from side to side. Keep the fluid full at all times. Once the fluid coming out the hose is clean, yell at your friend to shut the engine off, and then stop pouring fluid in. This should be done on a warm system. I have never done it this way, but it should work, many others have done it this way with no problems. And use P/S fluid, don't let anyone tell you that ATF is the same stuff and will work. It cannot withstand nearly the pressure that P/S fluid can.
What I would suggest is finding a shop that has a BG power steering flush machine. The cleaner works great. I did it on my car with 74k miles on it when we first got the machine... starting out the fluid was a bit dark. After adding the cleaner it turned almost black. It also comes with a big bottle of synthetic P/S fluid that should last much longer than the regular stuff. You don't have to have it done at the shop, but I would at least buy the cleaner and the synthetic fluid.
In the future, post in the appropriate forum, the "performance" forum is for stuff that adds horsepower.
Flushing the P/S is a great idea, and should be done every 30k miles or so. Less often if very little turning is done. The only way to do it at home is to remove the return hose from the pump, run it into a bucket and plug the return fitting on the reservoir. You'll need a second person for the rest. Fill the reservoir to the top and have your friend start the engine and let it idle while turning the steering wheel from side to side. Keep the fluid full at all times. Once the fluid coming out the hose is clean, yell at your friend to shut the engine off, and then stop pouring fluid in. This should be done on a warm system. I have never done it this way, but it should work, many others have done it this way with no problems. And use P/S fluid, don't let anyone tell you that ATF is the same stuff and will work. It cannot withstand nearly the pressure that P/S fluid can.
What I would suggest is finding a shop that has a BG power steering flush machine. The cleaner works great. I did it on my car with 74k miles on it when we first got the machine... starting out the fluid was a bit dark. After adding the cleaner it turned almost black. It also comes with a big bottle of synthetic P/S fluid that should last much longer than the regular stuff. You don't have to have it done at the shop, but I would at least buy the cleaner and the synthetic fluid.
blackonblackfx4
06-09-2009, 07:58 PM
Which line is the return line? I just want to get it right
J-Ri
06-09-2009, 08:09 PM
It's the one that is clamped on. If you need a wrench to take a hose off, you're on the wrong one. Which reminds me, get a #2 or #3 screw clamp, the original spring clamp may not hold once it is released it looses some tension and clamping force. They're also a PITA to get back on sometimes.
And I forgot the spark plugs... remove the coil/ignition module from the top of the engine and you'll get the rest. It is the easiest engine to do a tune-up on. Use AC-Delco iridium plugs.
And I forgot the spark plugs... remove the coil/ignition module from the top of the engine and you'll get the rest. It is the easiest engine to do a tune-up on. Use AC-Delco iridium plugs.
blackonblackfx4
06-09-2009, 08:42 PM
It's the one that is clamped on. If you need a wrench to take a hose off, you're on the wrong one. Which reminds me, get a #2 or #3 screw clamp, the original spring clamp may not hold once it is released it looses some tension and clamping force. They're also a PITA to get back on sometimes.
And I forgot the spark plugs... remove the coil/ignition module from the top of the engine and you'll get the rest. It is the easiest engine to do a tune-up on. Use AC-Delco iridium plugs.
Am I gunna mess up the threads changing them? does it ever happen?
Do you know the size of socket to get them off?
And I forgot the spark plugs... remove the coil/ignition module from the top of the engine and you'll get the rest. It is the easiest engine to do a tune-up on. Use AC-Delco iridium plugs.
Am I gunna mess up the threads changing them? does it ever happen?
Do you know the size of socket to get them off?
J-Ri
06-09-2009, 09:35 PM
Probably not, very rarely (let the head cool before removing them). I have removed thousands of spark plugs and only once had the threads pull out on an old rusty engine. Put a small amount of nickel or copper based anti-seize on the threads and seat and you'll never have to worry about thread damage again.
5/8" socket (the smaller of the two spark plug socket sizes). Don't use a regular deep well socket or you'll have a hell of a time getting the new ones back in.
5/8" socket (the smaller of the two spark plug socket sizes). Don't use a regular deep well socket or you'll have a hell of a time getting the new ones back in.
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