Question about gear changing

Right now I have a stock 2.93 what are all the cost involved in changing these to 3.23?

Would it be cheaper to get a rear end from a junk yard that already have these gears and having that installed?

A signature to let us know what your car is would help a lot.

$250 is probably average labor for a gear install, going to need bearings and seals beyond that. A fesh posi would be a good idea too. Might find a worn axle shaft or two.
Depending on year you might need an ABS reluctor.

Speedo needs to be addressed, what that takes depends on year.

A junkyard axle is an option, never really sure what you will find wear wise though.

For the effort I would do 3.42s.

I have had between my 3 b-bodies 2.56(wagon), 2.93(sedan and wagon), 3.42/3.73/4.10 in the sedan. For a pure driver 3.42s are the winner, they were great, only changed them for the track.

Im sorry I will fix that. This is a 92 Caprice Sedan.

In that case you want to get the correct ABS reluctor.

Your car could have either the 7.5" or 8.5" axle, if it has the 7.5" get an 8.5" and the matching driveshaft, don't put any effort into the 7.5", thing is about made of glass.

If you have to go junkyard hunting for a 8.5" then I would hold out and find a 3.42 one.


I am DEEPLY familiar with the 94-6 stuff but not so much on the TBI so I can't tell you what it will take to correct your speedo.

Im probably going to go the junkyard route. I actually found a 92 caprice same as mine there with only 80k miles on it, it was really clean. Unfortunately it had the same rear end as mine. I did get lucky and took all the insides. :) seats/dash etc.

I hear its not very complicated to install the axle, and its basically four bolts. Is this correct? Could I get away with doing this myself? Im going to have to pull the part off twice in essence, once from the junkyard and once from off of my car. I'd like to think im pretty mechanically inclined :lol2: and after removing the part twice I think I could install it once.

An axle housing swap is not bad, worst part is bleeding the brakes.

Is a little more than just the 4 control arm bolts, have to disconnect the emergency brake cable and the rubber brake drop line. I would just cut the rubber line on the junkyard car.

Have to pull the u-joint straps too.

Like I said make sure you use a 8.5" axle. The 7.5" is OK stock but add any power and traction and it breaks easily. Put it this way the guys with Camaros a good bit lighter car break them routinely. The 8.5" was used on a lot of b-bodies meaning it is easy to make sure you have a strong axle.

... don't put any effort into the 7.5", thing is about made of glass.

That's a bit of an exaggeration. The 7.65" 10-bolt is a fine axle - For a 6 cylinder car. They are not made of glass. I can attest to the fact that they are at least made of tempered glass, which means you can get at least two good launches before they grenade.

The 8½" axles are plentiful. If you can tolerate a slightly wider axle, you might find a better ratio under a wagon or SEO car, and should at least already have a 3-series carrier.

Someone on the other forum did a L99 to LT1 swap and kept the 7.5" took out a few posis and a few sets of gears before selling it, the new owner recently blew it up again and put a 8.5" in it. LT1 is still stock.

I suppose I am looking at this from a higher HP perspective, the 92s have a LOT less power than I am accustomed too. The wagon is about 270hp the sedan a couple hundred more, took a coworker for a ride today, think I startled him.