1999 Voyager with Bad 2.4L

Hi, I'm going to doing an engine swap on a '99 Voyager with a blown 2.4L. I'm wondering if anyone knows whether or not any 2.4L from 99 or surrounding years will work, of if I need to find one from a van. I don't have any problems switching any tin or brackets over, I just don't want to use the head if possible. I was thinking of looking for a stratus or breeze with a 2.4. Thanks for your time, Jared

Any 2.4L will work as I had to do the same thing. Good luck! It was a pain in the ass! Need any more help just post here and I will try to help!

Great, thanks. I ended up trading the van for a WC Allis Chalmers I had lying around, so hopefully I can find a relatively cheap engine to get it back on the road.

REMOVAL- labor time 10.0

Perform fuel pressure release procedure. Remove fuel line to fuel rail.
Disconnect battery.
Remove Air cleaner and hoses.
Drain cooling system.
Remove upper radiator hose and remove radiator fans.
Remove lower radiator hose.
Disconnect automatic transmission cooler lines and plug, if equipped.
Disconnect transmission shift linkage.
Disconnect throttle body linkage.
Disconnect engine wiring harness.
Disconnect heater hoses.
Discharge air conditioning system.
Hoist vehicle and remove right inner splash shield. Remove wheels and tires.
Loosen power steering belt for pump removal.
Remove axle shafts.
Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
Remove front and rear engine mount brackets from the body.
Remove bending braces and front engine mount bracket. Remove transmission inspection cover.
Mark flex plate to torque converter and remove torque converter bolts.
Install front engine mount bracket.
Lower vehicle.
Remove power steering pump. Set pump aside.
Remove A/C lines at compressor and cap.
Remove ground straps to body.
Positioning Engine Cradle Support Post Mounts-Typical






Raise vehicle enough to allow engine dolly Special Tool 6135, cradle Special Tool 6710 with Posts Special Tool 6848 and Adapter Special Tool 8130 to be installed under vehicle.
Loosen cradle posts to allow movement for proper positioning. Locate two rear posts (right side of engine) into the holes on the engine bedplate. Locate the two front posts (left side of engine) on the front engine bracket and A/C compressor bracket. Lower vehicle and position cradle mounts until the engine is resting on mounts. Tighten mounts to cradle frame. This will keep mounts from moving when removing or installing engine and transmission.
Lower vehicle so the weight of ONLY THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION are on the cradle.
Remove engine and transmission mount bolts.
Raise vehicle slowly. It may be necessary to move the engine/transmission assembly on the cradle to allow for removal around the body.
INSTALLATION

Position engine and transmission assembly under vehicle and slowly lower the vehicle over the engine and transmission.
Align engine and transmission mounts to attaching points. Install mounting bolts at the right engine and left mounts.
Slowly raise vehicle enough to remove the engine dolly and cradle Special Tools 6135 and 6710.
Install axle shafts.
Install transmission and engine braces and splash shields.
Connect exhaust system to manifold.
Install power steering pump.
Install A/C compressor hoses.
Install accessory drive belts.
Install front and rear engine mounts.
Install inner splash shield. Install wheels and tires.
12. Connect automatic transmission cooler lines, and shift linkage. 13. Connect fuel line and heater hoses.
Install ground straps. Connect engine and throttle body connections and harnesses.
Connect throttle body linkage.
Install radiator fans. Install radiator hoses. Fill cooling system.
Connect battery.
Install air cleaner and hoses.
Install oil filter. Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to correct level.
Start engine and run until operating temperature is reached.
Adjust transmission linkage, if necessary.

Wow, thanks for the info. I should be picking it up this weekend, I'll print out the instructions and hope it all goes smooth. Thanks again.

Glad I could be helpfull

long time coming, but i finally had a chance to do the swap. Bought an engine out of a '98, which was a direct swap minus changing the exhaust manifold over to the original 1999 style. Wasn't that bad of a job, thanks again to everyone for the information. Now if i can just talk to tranny into shifting like it's supposed to. I don't remember it having issues before the crank went. The 1st to 2nd shift is late, and the 2nd to 3rd shift is rare. Only driving it maybe 10 miles, added a partial can of trans tune, hopefully tomorrow's test drive will yield better results.

The trans tune and lubricating the mechanical part of the kickdown linkage seems to have improved the shifting tenfold. Still only have had a chance to put on a few miles, but it's much better. The only lingering issue is the converter, when it's cold it'll remain locked up as you're slowing down, which ends up killing the engine, unless you slip it into neutral. Anyone know if the switch is changeable without removing/disassembling the trans?

I know this is an older post, but I figured that someone may need this info...

Your adjustment on the cable linkage was too tight, hence your late shifting tranny; probably shifted harded than you would have liked as well... Since it's a 3 speed transmission, you can unplug it from the transmission for now so you can at least drive it, however the check engine light will come on if it hasn't already... This adjustment gets out of whack a lot when you do an engine and/or a transmision replacement...

It is not hard to change the switch, but you will have to remove the valve body... Don't worry, as with most Chrysler trannys, you can remove the valve body pretty easily and no "balls" will fall out.. It is a "complete" valve body...

You just have to remove the shifter linkage and the downshift linkage, unplug the Torque converter switch, drain the pan and remove the filter, and then remove all the 10MM headed bolts (do NOT remove TORX bolts except for the filter)...

Carefully start to pull down on the valve body while disconnecting the governor tubes (you'll see what I mean) kinda going back and forth while pulling down... Should come out fairly easily, with the only hangup being that the rust on the linkage shaft may make it difficult to slip through the tranny... A good idea is to lubricate that shaft beforehand...

When the valve body is out on the bench, just remove the three T25 Torx screws for the torque switch, being careful, because there is at least one spring that MAY pop out... The new switch comes with a new gasket; switch costs around $15-$50 depending on the brand and who you buy it from... I think I paid about $15 last time I bought one from my supplier...

Installation is the reverse... any questions, just ask...