Carbon Buster.......

Since the other week when I was able to clean out my EGR valve and save some money by doing this, I wanted to know if anyone out there could recommend a product for the rest of my engine. Is there any type of additive, I am assuming to my oil when I change it that someone could recommend that would help get some of that possible caked up carbon in my engine out and clean it up a little? I have put in engine flush every three times I change my oil and last time I put some Lucas additive into it. If my EGR valve was any indicator of how much built up carbon deposits that I have in my engine, I want it out!! Thank you ahead of time.......

Carbon deposits on the EGR are quite common and are simply a byproduct of exhaust gases from the combustion chamber. The higher the mileage, the more likely you are to have this problem. Some fuel additives such as SeaFoam can be mixed with the fuel to help keep the combustion cleaner and in some extreme cases; the product can be supplied directly through a vacuum line straight into the intake manifold. Most additives include instructions for this procedure if applicable.

I use Lucas fuel system additive about every fourth tank of gas and hope that it is doing it’s job; however, you never know until you pull the intake, or heads and take a look at the combustion chambers, or intake side of the valves. In addition, I have been using Amosoil 10W40 synthetic racing oil for the last year and have noticed less oil consumption & carbon build-up on the EGR than with other oils. (Including Mobile-1)

Normally, the EGR should be removed & cleaned as part of routing maintenance, but not many people want to do that, because it is out of site & out of mind until they get a DTC. I remove mine & clean it every 6-months, whether it needs it or not! It only takes a few minutes to remove, clean & lubricate, so it’s a worthwhile maintenance function for me. Nothing is more aggravating, than to be out on the open road and get an EGR DTC. BTW, I still have the OEM EGR @ 133K & it is as clean as a new one inside. :grinyes:

I pulled my throttle body a while back and scrubbed it out with dish soap and carb cleaner to solve a strange whining sound at idle. Carbon buildup around the IAC port and main butterfly were causing a whistle sound. Initially I thought the sound was related to the transmission because it was so sensative to gear selection changes, but after talking with some mechanics I was given the suggestion to scrub the carbon gunk out of the throttle body. Thankfully that solved my problem.

I don't run any additives in the oil or fuel typically. I really can't render any opinion on whether or not that stuff actually does anything. I like HotZ's idea about scrubbing the EGR system routinely, that seems like a good idea. When I replace my lower intake I'll probably scrub out the EGR system as well.

I've always run Mobile-1 Extended Performance 5W-30 in this car since I bought it. When I pulled the engine oil pan to replace the gasket recently, I was surprised by the cleanliness of the engine internals. I really didn't see any significant glazing or gunk buildup at all. The pan had zero sludge in it and the connecting rods and caps looked brand new.

Aside from cleaning EGR components and the Throttle Body, I've never seen any compelling evidence that engine flushes and additives are worth the trouble. I've seen more evidence that they could be potentially detremental to valve guide seals and gaskets. I could swear after dumping gumout fuel system treatment in a tank of gas that it caused fuel rail leaks on my 2000. I did end up with leaky fuel rail o-rings, whether or not the gumout caused the problem, I don't know. I generally take a conservative purist approach to the whole thing. I use high quality shell or chevron gasoline along with the mobile-1 synthetic and I keep up with rigorous routine maintenance.

Do you prefer Seafoam or the Lucas additive better, I use both and feel though both are good I think I prefer the Seafoam product.

I just bought a Suburban with 349,000 miles on it. It seems to run okay but the engine looks dirty and when I first got it the oil was old so I had it changed. Anyhow, I started it up a few weeks after getting it home with the intent on taking it to emissions (we have to pass here in our county in Tennessee in order to get tags.) For forty five minutes straight the thing blew thick white smoke out of the exhaust and it was smelly. I thought, "there is no way this thing is passing emissions." I remember hearing good things about Marvel Mystery Oil so I figured it could not hurt to try it. I bought a quart and put half in the gas tank and half in the oil. I then took it for a drive for 15 minutes and then on to the emissions place. By the time I was in line to get my truck checked, I noticed that there was no more white smoke coming out. I went in the building still thinking I would be way over the limits. A few minutes later the guy comes back with my "you passed!" form and says, "you're good." I was shocked! The limit on one of the things was 400 parts per million. Mine was 375. Still, I made it. I can't help but think that Marvel Mystery Oil was the difference between getting plates for my vehicle and an expensive repair.

WOW Great story!
My Grand Farther used to swear by that stuff.
I mean it's been around forever!

Carbon deposits on the EGR are quite common and are simply a byproduct of exhaust gases from the combustion chamber...
Normally, the EGR should be removed & cleaned as part of routing maintenance, but not many people want to do that, because it is out of site & out of mind until they get a DTC. I remove mine & clean it every 6-months, whether it needs it or not! It only takes a few minutes to remove, clean & lubricate, so it’s a worthwhile maintenance function for me. Nothing is more aggravating, than to be out on the open road and get an EGR DTC. BTW, I still have the OEM EGR @ 133K & it is as clean as a new one inside. :grinyes:

What is the process for cleaning an EGR?