Paint

Hi guys first time here and would like to ask your opinion
i am just starting to gather info to paint my rod never done it before
the car 1932 Plymouth 3 window cp has paint over 18 years old i don't know what type or kind but its in very good shape but looks like it was painted with a roller . Some guys tell me to take it down all the way to metal
some guys tell me to just sand it smooth, seal ,and 2 stage it .the paint is not bubbled or lifting and the is no rust any were .
I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY HELP

I did a resteration on a 73 vega that had the orignal paint. We sanded everything off and started with about 4-5 coats of primer. We did it this way because the car was gonna be painted black. In your case just do a light sanding and put a nice base coat followed by clear. You dont need to reprime

THANKS FOR THE FAST REPLY MARK
MY car is yellow and i am going to two tone it bk blu metallic on the top any yellow pearl on the bottom.
Is there enough pigment in the blue to hide the yellow ?
Also im am told not to color sand the color but the clear is this correct? Not to get ahead of myself. I want to us dupont system.
I went to Shermam Williams and they wanted $1.000 for materals and another jobber wants max of $500 for DUPONT.
THATS a no brainer

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
BOB

Hi Bob

First id like to say that your worried about the blue covering the yellow what you can do is have it customed mixed where they add tonners to deepen or lightn the shade. As far as the color sanding gose if it was me id color sand the base and the clear since your your going with a metalic and then color sand the clear. Dupont hot hues has some beautiful colors bob and for 500.00 thats not bad.

I would sand the original paint smooth not necessarily to the metal, but I would still use a primer sealer and sand that stage as well. The primer will fill in all the sand scratches and provide a nice base for the color. 400 grit wet sand.
I would block sand the base color w/600 grit wet sand as well and add more color as needed.
Then I would shoot several coats of clear for depth and allowance for sanding and micro finishing of the clear coat. I used Dupont 7500 clear on my lasy paint job and this stuff is awesome!
I am not a professional body man but this process has worked well for me.

Hi Toddman

The only time that i put primer on a car is when sand a car down to the metal becuase thats what primer is made for. As far as sand scatches, there wont be hardly any because like i said before why put more primer. Id also wet sand with 400 on the base and the clear with 600.

Thanks guys, getting more confident all the time with your help
i am a retired general motors tech with 40 years experance and have enough knowledge about body work to be dangerious.

Iam printing this advice out and stick pinning it to my garage wall so my pee size brain dont forget it

thanks to all

Thanks Mark,

Auto finishing has come a long way since I first started. I guess this one should be left for the pro's.

I appreciate your comments.

Hi Toddman

Im far from a pro. Im just a bodyman helper.

The only problem I see is that you mentioned that the paint looked like it was applied with a roller. Do you have any idea of what kind of paint it might be? You may also have your paint rep, where ever you decide to buy your paint, check the mil thickness on the paint. If it is more than 12 to 15 mils, I would use chemical stripper to remove the coatings and start over. Once stripped, perform any bodywork that is necessary, and spray two coats of epoxy followed by two coats of urethane primer. Guide coat the entire car and block sand. This is just an opinion, if the coating exceed maximum thickness or if your unsure of what the existing paint is. This would obviously be the long version. It depends how much time and money that you want to invest in your project.

As far as clear coat, here is a 3M video click on paint finishing videos (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Training-Resources/Videos/)

Great information to share!

I was pretty close with the steps provided, but they sure made it easier with the right products.

Thanks.

TO LEARN AUTO BODY
THANK YOU FOR THE INFO
THE statment "PAINTED WITH A ROLLOR" WAS A FIGURE OF SPEACH.
IT looks like when painted they didn't take the time to wet sand the ORANGE PEAL . and just left it
it was painted back in the early 80's or late 70's
its 1966 corvette sunflower yellow and dosen't apper to be clear coated
i haven't waxed it for 2 years because i anticipiced it getted painted, but it never happend THE PAINT IS VERY SHINY IN SPOTS ,SOME PLACES ON THE CAR THEY DID QUITE WELL . it may be enamal
i am in no hurry to get it done but want it done by SETPEMBER
i have all the time in the world as being retired

THANKS TO ALL AND KEEP IT COMMING I NEED EVERY BIT OF ADVISE YOU CAN GIVE.

Well, with a car that old, you'd be surprised what you may find. I have seen cars painted with rollers, brushes, and even spray cans. :grinyes: It probably is acrylic enamel. If the mils do not exceed 12 mils thick, you will probably be fine sanding 400 to 600 sandpaper. I would recommend a primer sealer to seal of the old paint before spraying the base coat. Follow the brand recommendations. May be something like: 1-2 coats sealer, 2-3 (until hiding) coats of base, 2-3 coats of clear coat. If you will be buffing, I would probably put 3 coats of clear. Again, the best thing to do is probably ask the company that you buy the paint for advise.

Thank you
thanks for your info, ill do just that.
I have been talking with the company that i'll be buying my supplies from. [ du pont ]
he said , he has some paint someone ordered and never picked up, and no one wants
he'll give it to me to pratice, i also got a hood from a body shop off a pt cruzer to pratice on .

Thanks for replying on sunday ,mothers day no less.
It shows your devotion to help someone you don't know and should be commened.

Bob