Ride Height

Well I have another set of tires wearing significantly on the outboard edges; my mechanic suggested this could be due to sagging suspension components. I thought when doing an alignment the shop should check ride height but I'm not sure mine ever has. So here I am with a tape measure.

Now if I understand correctly, on a level surface, I need to measure the difference between the lowest inboard point by the lower ball joint (7.5") and the middle of the lower control arm mounting/pivot bolt (11"). I believe the spec is 4.6-5", so this means I need to crank the torsion bars up 1"-1.5", correct?

Also, could someone explain why a sagging suspension would cause increased wear on the outside edges of the tire? It seems counter-intuitive to me.

If your alignment shop does not do that find a better one that does.

Ride heigh is mesured from frame to ground a certain points.
A good repair manual gives specs and places to measure it.

When front end sags it lets tires lean out at top and puts load on outer edge of tire or sometimes just one side.
But lower ball joint height does not change.
You need to find another place to measure it.
Good luck

I wish I knew what I did with my gutenburg format chilton's manual; the new autozone site sure is frustrating to navigate, although I appreciate that they offer the guides for free.

I eventually did find a good diagram that confirmed my measurements and tolerances. I think I was unclear in my first post, in that the spec is the difference between the two points on the control arm...this should account for differences in tire size, etc, that would come into play if measuring to ground.

Thanks for the wear explanation, that makes sense. I also wasn't thinking of the vehicle being in motion...I imagine that in a turn a weak front suspension would put more weight on the outsides of the outer tire.

....Now if I understand correctly, on a level surface, I need to measure the difference between the lowest inboard point by the lower ball joint (7.5") and the middle of the lower control arm mounting/pivot bolt (11"). I believe the spec is 4.6-5", so this means I need to crank the torsion bars up 1"-1.5", correct?....

That is correct.

Well I was just under my truck and both the CV joints are spewing out grease...blast.

Is it possible that they're just complaining about the sudden return to stock height, or is it possible that my measurements are flawed and I exceeded stock height? I just don't want to pop a new pair in and have it happen again.

Also, I have a pair of add-a-leafs on order because I'm sure my rear is hanging low...is there a measurement for the back end too?

1. I just had a leaf added to my rear spring packs which raised up the back about 3"

2. Then I cranked up the front end about 2 1/2" with torsion bar re-indexed keys.

This caused BOTH my CV axle inner joints to fail quickly and my tires are definitely riding on the inside edge since I have yet to align it. The replacement axles have been doing fine ever since. Remember this as well. The upper ball joints will also be put at a new angle which they will not appreciate. There are redesigned upper control arms out there that correct this and I plan on buying them. Any way you look at it, lifting the front is going to throw everything out of whack. I am a mechanic and I have access to an alignment machine so this is not a big deal to me, but if you do plan on lifting up the front end to match the lifted rear I would suggest getting ALL the modifications done before replacing tires and getting an alignment.

PS: I would cancel the add-a-leafs and go straight to a spring shop that will re-arch your current springs and add a single leaf to the pack. It not only made my truck ride better it also greatly improved sag when towing my camper.