96 caprice lt1

when removin the harmonic damper bal how do you remove the shaft that is still conected to the motor i took the bolt out of the center and tryed a puller on it and could not get it off is their a special puller i have never seen this on any motor befor thanks

when removin the harmonic damper bal how do you remove the shaft that is still conected to the motor i took the bolt out of the center and tryed a puller on it and could not get it off is their a special puller i have never seen this on any motor befor thanks

What are you talking about (shaft still connected to motor)? That's the crankshaft if I am reading your message correctly.

im talking about the shaft that goes threw the timing cover it has a bolt threw the center of it and the harmonic damper connects to it i think i figured it out you leave the bolt half way in so the puller can pull it off i took the bolt all the way out and tryed it that way and it did not work

im talking about the shaft that goes threw the timing cover it has a bolt threw the center of it and the harmonic damper connects to it i think i figured it out you leave the bolt half way in so the puller can pull it off i took the bolt all the way out and tryed it that way and it did not work

The shaft that goes through the timing cover, that the harmonic balancer mounts to, is the crankshaft. There is no other shaft that the harmonic balancer would attach to. The bolt that goes through the center of the pulley and balancer bolts into the crankshaft. It comes out, once you remove all of the pistons and rods, and main bearing caps.

What are you talking about (shaft still connected to motor)? That's the crankshaft if I am reading your message correctly.

I have to agree. That is the same thing I thought when I read the post. I even checked my FSM to see if there was anything but all it shows is the crankshaft also.

when removin the harmonic damper bal how do you remove the shaft that is still conected to the motor i took the bolt out of the center and tryed a puller on it and could not get it off is their a special puller i have never seen this on any motor befor thanks

what are you repairing with your engine,,,,?

repairing the seals in timing cover when you take three bolt from the harmonic damper their is still the shaft with one bolt going threw the center of shaft the harmoic damper is just bolted to the shaft the shaft sticks out four inch out the timing cover this is on a lt1

If you're replacing the seals in the timing cover make sure you also put one on the crank surface where the hole in the timing cover goes through. Many times the surface of the crank has small grooves and when you install a new seal on the timing cover small leaks may develop whee the seal makes contact with the crank. I don't know if they are included in some timing seal kits as back then when I did a lot of engines, you had to buy them separately. It looks like a chrome collar in which you clean the crank's surface well and install a special glue, then mount the collar before installing the timing chain cover.The purpose is to rejuvenate the crank seal to prevent leaks.

On this vehicle there is a balancer hub that the front seal rides. The seal in the timing cover does not ride the actual crankshaft as it does in older SBC motors. The hub must be pulled with a standard steering wheel puller. The center crank bolt must be removed and an allen head bolt that is smaller than the threadbore diameter is to be used for the center bolt of the puller to push against the crankshaft and pull the hub.

repairing the seals in timing cover when you take three bolt from the harmonic damper their is still the shaft with one bolt going threw the center of shaft the harmoic damper is just bolted to the shaft the shaft sticks out four inch out the timing cover this is on a lt1

this is a picture I have ...showing the front cover removed.





http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj20/jcat2140/LT1TimingSet.jpg


http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj20/jcat2140/Opti1.jpg

when removin the harmonic damper bal how do you remove the shaft that is still conected to the motor i took the bolt out of the center and tryed a puller on it and could not get it off is their a special puller i have never seen this on any motor befor thanks

the balancer hub and balancer must be marked and installed as removed or an inbalance may occur...

using a puller should work using the allen stud in the center point for puller to pull off...heating the balancer hub slightly should ease the removal...

the torque is 74ft lbs for the balancer hub bolt, and 64ft lbs for the crankshaft balancer studs...front cover studs is 8.5 ft lbs/ or 100inch lbs...

good luck

The balancer and hub are neutral balance and not keyed. You should point the arrow on the hub straight up with number 1 at TDC so you know where TDC is, but no imbalance will occur if you just randomly put it on.

Thwere are a lot of well meaning people on this site more than willing to vomit up information without any clue as to whether it is vaguely accurate. It severely limits the number of actually knowledgable folks who actually post here and the frequency of their posts.

IMO the people who stopped learning in the 70s are a HUGE PITA and make it very hard to help guys.

For removing the hub I have use a variety of homegrown solutions but the best is to go to Fastenall or the like with the hub bolt and buy a much LONGER one and a stack of washers to go with it.

Bottom the longer bolt in the threads and push against it. The stack of washers comes in handy when reinstalling. Use the threads to draw it up always making sure to start with good thread engagement so as not to strip.

I also heat the hub in boiling water first and quickly push it on far as possible while hot. I boil it because that limits heat to 212f which is hot enough to expand it but not so hot as to ruin the new seal.

[quote=96capricemgr;5966896]The balancer and hub are neutral balance and not keyed. You should point the arrow on the hub straight up with number 1 at TDC so you know where TDC is, but no imbalance will occur if you just randomly put it on.
[quote]


the install and removal of the balancer and hub require marking .... to avoid an inbalance reinstall as it was,, came from the GM OEM manual, for this vehicle......

well i changed the seals it went good but now the timing needs to be replaced the problem is this motor is a 96 the car is a 95 how do you remove the bottom sprokit for timing chain when their is a circle disc with for teeth for the crank shaft position sensor this plate covers the bottom gear off timing chain and has some kin of lock on it thanks

well i changed the seals it went good but now the timing needs to be replaced the problem is this motor is a 96 the car is a 95 how do you remove the bottom sprokit for timing chain when their is a circle disc with for teeth for the crank shaft position sensor this plate covers the bottom gear off timing chain and has some kin of lock on it thanks

the timing / knock sensors are different with the 1996 going into a 1995 pcm/computer.... I would expect problems ....

since this is something I have no experience with you will need help modifiing this properly..



the lower sprocket is pulled out, after the reluctor ring is removed...this should pop off....you will need a puller to remove the lower sprocket...as you probably know ,,, before removal line up the lower/upper sprocket timing marks on gear face..to face each other...

i had a 4.3 in my caprice i removed every thing from it and put on a 96 block so i dont need that crank shaft postion sensor and runs perfect but timing chain is a little sloppy so i want to change it i would like to modify back like a 95 im not sure if that is possble