S10 Blazer 1996 - New Manifold Gasket Now Runs Rough

We changed the manifold gasket because radiator fluid was leaking out pretty bad. Now for some reason the truck is not firing on all cylinders. We double checked a few times that the distributor is in correctly. It is. The wires were never taken off the distributor cap so those are correct. The truck ran beautiful before we fix the gasket. Any ideas ?


1996 s10 blazer. 4.3 vortec

If it's missing, the Service Engine Soon, (SES) light should be on and there should be a Diagnostic Trouble Code, (DTC) stored in memory, and that will tell what cylinder is missing. If the SES light isn't on, check for vacuum leaks, or possibly the intake gasket is not sealing correctly. Did you use the Felpro perma dry plus Part No. MS98002T gasket set? Or did you use the plastic intake gaskets with a thin rubber seal around each port? Did you use proper torque sequence and specs when installing the intake?

Well I toook it to my friend who did the job to put it on his scanner at work. It comes up that it has a random cylinder missfire on cylinder 3. We pulled the plug and put a test plug on there and it for sure is getting spark at the end of the wire. He didnt have much time to look at it at work so he thinks possibly a fuel injector is either plugged or not working. So on my way home I bought some fireball fuel injection cleaner. I put it in and gave the truck a few bursts to try to get it cleaned out. Of course there was not much power because it was only running on 5 cylinders. Then it slowly lost power and wanted to shut off. As I was coming to a stop I notice the oil pressure going down. I turned it off and let it sit for awhile. It will start but no oil pressure. Cant see how the first problem can be related.

Well I toook it to my friend who did the job to put it on his scanner at work. It comes up that it has a random cylinder missfire on cylinder 3. We pulled the plug and put a test plug on there and it for sure is getting spark at the end of the wire. He didnt have much time to look at it at work so he thinks possibly a fuel injector is either plugged or not working. So on my way home I bought some fireball fuel injection cleaner. I put it in and gave the truck a few bursts to try to get it cleaned out. Of course there was not much power because it was only running on 5 cylinders. Then it slowly lost power and wanted to shut off. As I was coming to a stop I notice the oil pressure going down. I turned it off and let it sit for awhile. It will start but no oil pressure. Cant see how the first problem can be related.

How much oil is on the dipstick? Do you have water in your oil? If the oil level is really high on the dipstick and looks like chocolate milk, you have water in the oil.

The oil level was for sure high. Seemed thin also. Not really like chocolate milk but maybe a light coffee color. I am not at the truck as we speak. Could that cause no oil pressure? I had the supplies to change oil and it got too late that day for the mechainc to finish. So it probably does have water in there.

The oil level was for sure high. Seemed thin also. Not really like chocolate milk but maybe a light coffee color. I am not at the truck as we speak. Could that cause no oil pressure? I had the supplies to change oil and it got too late that day for the mechainc to finish. So it probably does have water in there.

Yes. If the Oil level shows more oil than what you put in there and has a tan to brown color (light coffee to chocolate milk) that is probably your problem. It sounds like the intake manifold gasket that you just installed did not seal correctly, and is leaking water into the oil. Check the Radiator for water loss too.

When you do get to the truck, check the oil level. When mine blew, I had 6 inches of "Chocolate Milk" above the full line on the dipstick.

Excellant info. I will be sure to post when I get the truck back home and the mechainc is here to see what went wrong. Thank you very much. Crossing my fingers.

Update: Just changerd the oil in the parking lot. I now have oil pressure. Good call. Thats awesome.

Getting back to original problem. My mechanic just called and said to pull off this big square plug behind intake. It has metal prongs and he said he may have bent one putting plug back in. Well #1 there was a leaf in there, #2 one plug was bent over and almost touching the other prong. I am just going to leave it for him to straigten out because I will screw it up. This may eb the solve. . . I will post again when that is fixed.

Well I straighten out the pins today and the missing of cylinder 3 is gone. All cylinders are back to running. The new problem is I did internal damage by running it with such a thin oil. Basically the engine is partially blown. Not sure what the first this to go is, spun bearing etc. but that is whats wrong.

Well I straighten out the pins today and the missing of cylinder 3 is gone. All cylinders are back to running. The new problem is I did internal damage by running it with such a thin oil. Basically the engine is partially blown. Not sure what the first this to go is, spun bearing etc. but that is whats wrong.

What makes you say the engine is partially blown?

Its making a knocking / ticking sound. Its more than a tick that you hear when you are out of oil. But its not the loud knock you hear from the bottom of the engine. Almost sounds like a valve lifter but hard for me to tell if its on the top part of the engine or lower part. I also took it around the block and it has no power at all. But for sure all the cylinders are firing now.

I am thinking that you may have a little water and /or sludge in the engine.

Here is a suggestion. I would try flushing the engine. If you go to the auto parts store, and buy a couple of new filters, more oil, and a bottle of "GUNK" brand engine flush. You might need to dump a quart of oil out by replacing the filter so you don't over fill the engine. Follow the directions on the bottle and DO NOT DRIVE OR REV THE ENGINE WITH THE FLUSH IN IT. IDLE ONLY! After the flushing is complete change your oil again and fill with fresh oil.

It is worth a try.

I did change the oil yesterday. I had real thin oil probably mixed with water and thats why I lost oil pressure. What worries me is we thought the fuel injector may have been plugged so I bought the fuel injection cleaner and punched it once or twice to try and run it through. Had the watered down oil in when I did that. I didnt know at the time. You think sludge could make the engine knock like that?

I did change the oil yesterday. I had real thin oil probably mixed with water and thats why I lost oil pressure. What worries me is we thought the fuel injector may have been plugged so I bought the fuel injection cleaner and punched it once or twice to try and run it through. Had the watered down oil in when I did that. I didnt know at the time. You think sludge could make the engine knock like that?

IF IF IF it is a lifter, making the noise, it is probably because it is sludged up and doesn't fill up with oil causing anything from a light tap to a loud knock. If it is bearing, the flush won't help.

Changing the oil yesterday was good, but the flush, oil, and the filters won't cost that much. Maybe $20 - $25 tops. If it was my truck, I would try it.

Oh I am going to try it. The mechanic that did the job is coming by in a little bit to hear it and see what he thinks it is. He may have some work a head of him for making a few mistakes. Putting that plug on wrong / and not changing the oil. I did get some sludgy stuff coming out when we did change oil. I will be trying this tonight.

I appreciate the help. So far the few things mentioned have been right on the money. I hope this flush is also.

See this thread while you are waiting.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=361285

It sounds like you friend did not do such a great job. You have to change the oil after you pull the intake, not only with the exsisting coolant that can be in there, but as soon as you pull the intake, you do get residual coolant in there, and also some debris that get in there as you take the intake off. Chaning the oil is a must after this job is done. Another important issue, Rick mintioned this, is that it is critically important to torque the intake back down to proper spec, because if you don't, you will distort the block and cause damage to the engine. Hopefully that is done properly. Hopefully you can get things corrected and not have damaged the engine. Good Luck!

...And don't forget to "chase" the threads on the intake bolts and in the cylinder heads and use lock tite on the threads.

Well the mechanic was over today and we took valve cover off but he says it is the lower end of the motor. Spun barring at the least. Also claims the incident is not related to his work which is bull because the truck ran like a dream before he did the job. He thinks the oil pump shit the bed. I dont buy it. Not sure if it is worth it to fixx this motor because it has 160,000 miles on it. There is one for sale ion my area for $250 but it is from a 2000 s10 blazer and mine is 1996. Not sure if it will fit.

Well the mechanic was over today and we took valve cover off but he says it is the lower end of the motor. Spun barring at the least. Also claims the incident is not related to his work which is bull because the truck ran like a dream before he did the job. He thinks the oil pump shit the bed. I dont buy it. Not sure if it is worth it to fixx this motor because it has 160,000 miles on it. There is one for sale ion my area for $250 but it is from a 2000 s10 blazer and mine is 1996. Not sure if it will fit.

I agree. If the mechanic replaced the intake manifold gaskets but failed to change the oil prior to starting the Truck for the first time after the repair, IT IS HIS FAULT. The truck was started and ran with a crankcase full of water and antifreeze, if a bearing was trashed in the process, IT IS HIS FAULT. AND IF YOU OWE HIM ANY MONEY, DON'T PAY IT.

I wouldn't trust anything he says, not even his diagnosis. I'd suggest you get a second opinion from a competent mechanic.

Did you tryto flush the engine?

Yes I did the flush. Might have made it run a bit quieter but its a pretty good sounding knock. At an idle it soounds like a rocker, but if you give it some gas it gets worse. Pretty loud down low now. If he would have put that plug on correctly that made all the injectors fire and changed the oil all would be well. Deep down inside he knows it is because of him. He is going t help me fix it but it is going to cost me more money.. Like new engine. He has few connections and may be able to get an engine from local junk yard, but I won't count on it. Too bad cause truck is in nice shape for a 96. Its worth fixing.

Any idea if a 2000 4.3 will fit?

Yes I did the flush. Might have made it run a bit quieter but its a pretty good sounding knock. At an idle it soounds like a rocker, but if you give it some gas it gets worse. Pretty loud down low now. If he would have put that plug on correctly that made all the injectors fire and changed the oil all would be well. Deep down inside he knows it is because of him. He is going t help me fix it but it is going to cost me more money.. Like new engine. He has few connections and may be able to get an engine from local junk yard, but I won't count on it. Too bad cause truck is in nice shape for a 96. Its worth fixing.

Any idea if a 2000 4.3 will fit?

Yes a 4.3 from a 2000 will work,and 250 sounds like a good price

P.s. he ruind one engine already, id go throught someone else before i let him touch this one

Would it be worth to try and rebuild this motor or is it easier to just get another motor? The one for $250 was sold of course. Not sure how much junk yard wants for a new motor.

If you plan on keeping the truck for a long time then rebuilding it is the best, albeit most expensive, option. If you are looking to get this done cheaper then get a used engine from a reputable wrecking yard.

I also agree that you need to find a new mechanic since you seem to have one that is not worth his weight in spit.

Would it be worth to try and rebuild this motor or is it easier to just get another motor? The one for $250 was sold of course. Not sure how much junk yard wants for a new motor.

It is all a matter of how much you can afford.

If you just want to try to replace the bad bearings, you might get off cheap and get lucky. If you trashed a rod bearing, you may need to get the crank ground.

If you want to do a complete re-build including rings, valves, bearings, with all of the related machine work, my experience has always been to go with a rebuilt long block that was rebuilt by a competent rebuilder that will guarantee the engine.

If you can afford a new motor, that is even better.

You never really know what kind of service a used engine has seen, and in the end, it is a gamble plain and simple. You certainly do not want to go through all the time and trouble of swapping out a motor only to find out the one you just put in is no better than the one you just took out.

The key thing is to find a competent shop or mechanic to do the work that will stand behind their work.

i totally agree with both of u.the mechanic may have made a boo boo! and if its not a hard knock then clean as the other guy suggested. lifter may have gunk in it causing it to tick or make a clapping sound.definatly worth another try at solving your problem with cleaner. i have put head gaskets on over 20 or 30 vehicals and even though ther was water in the oil and was driven until it was hot and over heating ther was no permanent damge .good luck and let us know!:grinyes:

Well the mechanic was over today and we took valve cover off but he says it is the lower end of the motor. Spun barring at the least. Also claims the incident is not related to his work which is bull because the truck ran like a dream before he did the job. He thinks the oil pump shit the bed. I dont buy it. Not sure if it is worth it to fixx this motor because it has 160,000 miles on it. There is one for sale ion my area for $250 but it is from a 2000 s10 blazer and mine is 1996. Not sure if it will fit.
chevy oil pumps just dont fail. i have seen chevy trucks with 330,000 miles on it other than changing the intake manifold gaskets it wll run for ever with some regular maintenace!

Yes I did the flush. Might have made it run a bit quieter but its a pretty good sounding knock. At an idle it soounds like a rocker, but if you give it some gas it gets worse. Pretty loud down low now. If he would have put that plug on correctly that made all the injectors fire and changed the oil all would be well. Deep down inside he knows it is because of him. He is going t help me fix it but it is going to cost me more money.. Like new engine. He has few connections and may be able to get an engine from local junk yard, but I won't count on it. Too bad cause truck is in nice shape for a 96. Its worth fixing.

Any idea if a 2000 4.3 will fit?
you have the right attitude yes it is worth fixing.

It is all a matter of how much you can afford.

If you just want to try to replace the bad bearings, you might get off cheap and get lucky. If you trashed a rod bearing, you may need to get the crank ground.

If you want to do a complete re-build including rings, valves, bearings, with all of the related machine work, my experience has always been to go with a rebuilt long block that was rebuilt by a competent rebuilder that will guarantee the engine.

If you can afford a new motor, that is even better.

You never really know what kind of service a used engine has seen, and in the end, it is a gamble plain and simple. You certainly do not want to go through all the time and trouble of swapping out a motor only to find out the one you just put in is no better than the one you just took out.

The key thing is to find a competent shop or mechanic to do the work that will stand behind their work.
it is possiable just to put a lower end remanufactuerd crank kit in it. as long as u feel the rest of the motor is in good shape.i alot of folks do this and have had good succes and it is abit cheaper.just a thought!

it is possiable just to put a lower end remanufactuerd crank kit in it. as long as u feel the rest of the motor is in good shape.i alot of folks do this and have had good succes and it is abit cheaper.just a thought!

This would be a cheap solution but think about it, With all the labor pulling out the the motor and motor dis assembly I don't think I would stop there at a bare minimum I would rering the engine as well. If your budget is cheap a scrap yard motor is always a good option but make sure you find one with low mileage.
I have a large gm scrape yard that deals in late model wrecks and have very low mileage take outs. I bought a 3.4 with 1000 miles on it for 1000 bucks with a 3yr warranty from the yard. These are the kind of options to look at, as this vechicle is still running well 5 years later. Here's another lesson I learned, I did a 2000 sunfire and called the scrap yard and said to have a 75,000 mile 2.4 for 300 bucks so I told them to bring it out.
Needless to say after I was done started it up and bam thru a rod right out the front of the block. Called back the yard and had another sent out and when I was done reinstalling that one it had a head gasket leaking, called the yard again they said order the parts on there dime and they sent me a check for the parts and the cost of the engine. It ended up being free but a crapload of labor. These are definitely things to consider and good luck.

This would be a cheap solution but think about it, With all the labor pulling out the the motor and motor dis assembly I don't think I would stop there at a bare minimum I would rering the engine as well. If your budget is cheap a scrap yard motor is always a good option but make sure you find one with low mileage.
I have a large gm scrape yard that deals in late model wrecks and have very low mileage take outs. I bought a 3.4 with 1000 miles on it for 1000 bucks with a 3yr warranty from the yard. These are the kind of options to look at, as this vechicle is still running well 5 years later. Here's another lesson I learned, I did a 2000 sunfire and called the scrap yard and said to have a 75,000 mile 2.4 for 300 bucks so I told them to bring it out.
Needless to say after I was done started it up and bam thru a rod right out the front of the block. Called back the yard and had another sent out and when I was done reinstalling that one it had a head gasket leaking, called the yard again they said order the parts on there dime and they sent me a check for the parts and the cost of the engine. It ended up being free but a crapload of labor. These are definitely things to consider and good luck.
it was just a thought. if u can get a low mileage from scrap yard that has been in business for a long time a[ good reputation} that would also be a sloution.if price is an issue then i stick with a reman lower end crank kit. me if i had the money or i could wait a while untill i could get the money and i had a place to do it then a total rebuild is a better way to go if u plan on keeping it. next how many miles are on the transmission. a total rebuild on a trans with alot of miles may not be a solution. but the guy still has the gumption to do something so i was just giving my 2 cents. either way i whis him all the good luck i can!

djd99’s post supports my statement exactly. Used engines are a gamble. If you have the right tools, the know-how, the time, not to mention the money, and can afford to be without your truck from a couple of weeks, you are in a better position to gamble than most. In the end, you never know what you are going to get from a wrecking yard.

I have also heard the same statement with rebuilds, they too are a gamble, but a competent rebuilder will clean, magna-flux, and inspect their blocks, cranks, cams, heads, pistons and rods before building an engine with them. Almost all re-built motors will include some new parts such as bearings, rings and oil pumps, but a good rebuilder will use new lifters, new valve springs, new valves, new pushrods, and will always stand behind their product.

This guy is relying upon an incompetent mechanic to do his work.

I agree that a crank kit might work, but I also agree that there could be other issues and I would not recommend stopping with a crank kit.

[quote=Rick Norwood;5969200]djd99’s post supports my statement exactly. Used engines are a gamble. If you have the right tools, the know-how, the time, not to mention the money, and can afford to be without your truck from a couple of weeks, you are in a better position to gamble than most. In the end, you never know what you are going to get from a wrecking yard.

I have also heard the same statement with rebuilds, they too are a -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
ok i agree. but i think the fellow has a 160,000 on the tranny if it hasnt been replaced. then if u are going to put all that money into the engine then the tranny takes a crap well your almost right back where u started.


as i used to tell my boss u have to reach a point that you just have to stop putting money in it. so i may not have the best idea but it is a solid solution to a problem. you could also go this route. if it wasnt a four wheel drive u could drop in a 350{ carberated } and turbo 350 or 400.infact in my old home town in alabama thats what most guys will do. it cheap it fairly easy and there ar kits available if u dont want to make all your own stuff. but my next point would be this. THE GUY HAD SOMEBODY DO THIS WORK FOR HIM IN THE FIRST PLACE. HE MAY NOT WANT TO OR ABLE. TIME, MONEY AND RESORCES.

The real question you have to ask is if you can replace the vehicle with one that is better for the money it costs to fix it. I would not hesitate to drop a new engine in my 99 if the need arose even if the cost was 2-3K since I know what I have done to my truck and I know that it has had the best possible maintenance it's whole life. That is really the only question as there is no reason to NOT fix a vehicle that only has mechanical issues. When you start talking major rust problems, that is a different story though.

The real question you have to ask is if you can replace the vehicle with one that is better for the money it costs to fix it. I would not hesitate to drop a new engine in my 99 if the need arose even if the cost was 2-3K since I know what I have done to my truck and I know that it has had the best possible maintenance it's whole life. That is really the only question as there is no reason to NOT fix a vehicle that only has mechanical issues. When you start talking major rust problems, that is a different story though.
U HAVE MADE A VALID POINT.IF MY YUKON TAKES A CRAP I WILL DO TO IT WHAT I CAN AFFORD TO IT. MIGHT TAKE AWHILE. :lol2: BUT I WOULD DO IT.

Dude, you are right on. I agree that you do have a solid solution and thanks for sharing. I would not discount this idea if it is all the guy can afford, however, there are other (and more expensive) options.

Your post is dead on right, At some point, you have to stop throwing money into any vehicle, but I will add, don't waste your money either.

Your insight into the tranny issue is classic, I too have rebuilt engines in my time only to have the tranny take a big healthy dumpity do da. I was told this is because the old tranny cannot handle the higher torque from the new motor. I would love to hear a comment from one of the experts on this.

Well, I will add my non-expert $.02 on the subject of the tranny too. There is no reason for a properly serviced and working transmission to suddenly die due to more power. I would be surprised if the original engine had lost more than 10% of it's original power and getting that back should not burn up the tranny. Again, this guy needs to take a solid look at his truck from front to back and top to bottom. IF the truck is in good physical rust free condition and the mechanicals were properly serviced throughout it's life then there is no reason to cut it loose now. IF money is tight I'd just go with the junkyard engine. Otherwise, there are rebuilders/installers out there that will finance a new/remanned engine for a reasonable cost.

Brand new vehicles have parts and engine failures every day. I would say that sometimes it is a matter of luck, but I would never trade my tried and true vehicle for another one that I know nothing about when for all intents and purposes it only needed a new motor.

Dude, you are right on. I agree that you do have a solid solution and thanks for sharing. I would not discount this idea if it is all the guy can afford, however, there are other (and more expensive) options.

Your post is dead on right, At some point, you have to stop throwing money into any vehicle, but I will add, don't waste your money either.

Your insight into the tranny issue is classic, I too have rebuilt engines in my time only to have the tranny take a big healthy dumpity do da. I was told this is because the old tranny cannot handle the higher torque from the new motor. I would love to hear a comment from one of the experts on this.
when i was a mechanic changing tranmissions or having them rebuilt was a very big money maker.thanks for your support.all things being equal if trannys didnt just mysteriously take a dump then there would be no need for tranny guys.there are all kinds of reasons that tranny fail. the biggest next to the manufacture just built a crappy tranny in the first place { for instance early model plymouth crhysler mini vans would just take a vacation. and most shops had no clue what was wrong whith them}. most folks never change the filter and fluid until the started having trannsmission issues mostly around 85 to 100,000 miles. usaully its to late by then.the new filter and fliud may prolong the life but it almost never very long. in most cases the filter and fluid should have been changed at about half the miles depending on the manufactuer recomendations.so if u maintain the tranny is and will always be good ok.then the only person that can tell u about the trans of the truck is the owner if he thinks the fluid is in good shape and trust it then ! when i was a mecanic i always treated every situation as this may be a lack of money issue. i would give them what if's about how much then they could make an intelligent decision based upon there current situation. some folks would just take there vehical staright to the dealer ,bite the bullit and by something else. most would pick the cheapest solution and a few would would go for the gold. thanks for your support man!

Dude, you are right on. I agree that you do have a solid solution and thanks for sharing. I would not discount this idea if it is all the guy can afford, however, there are other (and more expensive) options.

Your post is dead on right, At some point, you have to stop throwing money into any vehicle, but I will add, don't waste your money either.

Your insight into the tranny issue is classic, I too have rebuilt engines in my time only to have the tranny take a big healthy dumpity do da. I was told this is because the old tranny cannot handle the higher torque from the new motor. I would love to hear a comment from one of the experts on this.
thanks RICK NORWOOD .:grinno::grinyes::lol2::lol::licka::jerking::cryi ng::eek7::loser::naughty::devilsign: I SEEM TO ALWAYS BE ON THE WRONG SIDE OF AN ISSUE.WELL ATLEAST MY MOMMA STILL LOVES ME!

well, i will add my non-expert $.02 on the subject of the tranny too. There is no reason for a properly serviced and working transmission to suddenly die due to more power. I would be surprised if the original engine had lost more than 10% of it's original power and getting that back should not burn up the tranny. Again, this guy needs to take a solid look at his truck from front to back and top to bottom. If the truck is in good physical rust free condition and the mechanicals were properly serviced throughout it's life then there is no reason to cut it loose now. If money is tight i'd just go with the junkyard engine. Otherwise, there are rebuilders/installers out there that will finance a new/remanned engine for a reasonable cost.

Brand new vehicles have parts and engine failures every day. I would say that sometimes it is a matter of luck, but i would never trade my tried and true vehicle for another one that i know nothing about when for all intents and purposes it only needed a new motor.
u are right a properly serviced trans are few and far between!that is part of preventive maintenace. Most folks dont think about that untill it sneaks up and bites them on the hinny!

Well, I will add my non-expert $.02 on the subject of the tranny too. There is no reason for a properly serviced and working transmission to suddenly die due to more power. I would be surprised if the original engine had lost more than 10% of it's original power and getting that back should not burn up the tranny. Again, this guy needs to take a solid look at his truck from front to back and top to bottom. IF the truck is in good physical rust free condition and the mechanicals were properly serviced throughout it's life then there is no reason to cut it loose now. IF money is tight I'd just go with the junkyard engine. Otherwise, there are rebuilders/installers out there that will finance a new/remanned engine for a reasonable cost.

Brand new vehicles have parts and engine failures every day. I would say that sometimes it is a matter of luck, but I would never trade my tried and true vehicle for another one that I know nothing about when for all intents and purposes it only needed a new motor.

The key word is “Properly serviced”.

I’ll bet the majority of the vehicles on the road today have poorly maintained transmissions at best, and in reality, non-maintained transmissions.

I am sure the majority of today’s vehicles owners avoid transmission shops like the plague because of their notorious reputation of being the ultimate unscrupulous rip off artists. You think you are going in for a routine fluid change and drive out with a $2000 -$3000 receipt and a rebuilt transmission. I even had a Transmission shop refuse to take my car down off of the lift until I agreed to let them do the work. When I demanded my car, they told me they had to suck old tranny fluid from the floor sump in the garage bay (they had removed the pan for inspection and dumped the old fluid) and put it back in my tranny as they would not even change the fluid or even replace the pan gasket.

In any case, I agree that it shouldn’t matter, but my experience on two different rebuilds on two different vehicles is the Transmission starts acting up afterwards. Again, I would like to hear from one of our experts on this subject.

The key word is “Properly serviced”.

I’ll bet the majority of the vehicles on the road today have poorly maintained transmissions at best, and in reality, non-maintained transmissions.

I am sure the majority of today’s vehicles owners avoid transmission shops like the plague because of their notorious reputation of being the ultimate unscrupulous rip off artists. You think you are going in for a routine fluid change and drive out with a $2000 -$3000 receipt and a rebuilt transmission. I even had a Transmission shop refuse to take my car down off of the lift until I agreed to let them do the work. When I demanded my car, they told me they had to suck old tranny fluid from the floor sump in the garage bay (they had removed the pan for inspection and dumped the old fluid) and put it back in my tranny as they would not even change the fluid or even replace the pan gasket.

In any case, I agree that it shouldn’t matter, but my experience on two different rebuilds on two different vehicles is the Transmission starts acting up afterwards. Again, I would like to hear from one of our experts on this subject.
here here brother!people are afraid of the trans and repair shops.get took to the cleaners. i put in 45 -50 engines minimum in my time.never had one bad one except in a toyota. and i saw one of my brother mechanics put in one bad one for a ford.butt it does happen occasionally!:screwy:

The key word is “Properly serviced”.

I’ll bet the majority of the vehicles on the road today have poorly maintained transmissions at best, and in reality, non-maintained transmissions.

I am sure the majority of today’s vehicles owners avoid transmission shops like the plague because of their notorious reputation of being the ultimate unscrupulous rip off artists. You think you are going in for a routine fluid change and drive out with a $2000 -$3000 receipt and a rebuilt transmission. I even had a Transmission shop refuse to take my car down off of the lift until I agreed to let them do the work. When I demanded my car, they told me they had to suck old tranny fluid from the floor sump in the garage bay (they had removed the pan for inspection and dumped the old fluid) and put it back in my tranny as they would not even change the fluid or even replace the pan gasket.

In any case, I agree that it shouldn’t matter, but my experience on two different rebuilds on two different vehicles is the Transmission starts acting up afterwards. Again, I would like to hear from one of our experts on this subject.

On these blazers properly serviced means nothing when it comes to the transmission, My truck had 80,000 miles on it when the sunshell gear took a crap and it was serviced by myself at 60,000 miles. This is a known issue with the 4l60. Luckily I wrench on my own and this only cost me a case of beer(for my helper and I) and $650 for my tranny guy.

On these blazers properly serviced means nothing when it comes to the transmission, My truck had 80,000 miles on it when the sunshell gear took a crap and it was serviced by myself at 60,000 miles. This is a known issue with the 4l60. Luckily I wrench on my own and this only cost me a case of beer(for my helper and I) and $650 for my tranny guy.
well i think i get your drift. and i still think it {transmission} is still a factor when considering a total engine rebuild on a shoe string budget.

I service a fleet that has three 4L60E transmissions. One has 175,000 miles, one with 290,000 miles, and one with 331,000 miles. NONE of them have been apart, ALL of them are driven by mature adults, and ALL of them are serviced every 30,000 miles. The 4L60E is fine if you treat it with respect. Abuse it, and like anything else, it will have the last laugh.

It is just not logical to consider the transmission or any other system when replacing the motor unless you know the parts are failing. Period.

It is just not logical to consider the transmission or any other system when replacing the motor unless you know the parts are failing. Period.

I totally agree with b1lk1 If the truck is in good shape and not rustin out I would definitely consider replacing the engine as I don't think he should rebuild his being he doesn't have the ability to do the work himself. He may get lucky and find a good scrap yard gem to use. I wouldn't bother worrying about the tranny, hell it might make it another couple of years before it needs attention.

Although I would service it at the time of work though with a new filter and fluid.