2000 Rodeo - Knocking, Rough idle, misfires, surging

Ok, I've read all the stuff about replacing the IMG, but I just want to confirm that that's 99% what my problem is before I take on that much of a pain in the arse of a job.
I 1st had problems with my car almost dying and running really rough and misfiring. I took it into a car shop and they said that my EGR valve had insufficient flow and the ignition coil on cyl #3 was out. I replaced the ignition coil, cleaned the EGR port and tube, replaced the EGR valve, changed the spark plugs (it was time) and its still not running right. when i start it up it only runs a little rough, but when i step on the gas it makes popping noises under the hood and doesn't really move much until i slam the gas pedal down. then it rev's and takes off but i've only got about 1/2 of the power i had a couple months ago. i also have the flashing CEL and sometimes the ABS light comes on.
a friend of mine suggested that the fuel filter might be clogged and that's why it's surging and doesn't really go until i slam the gas pedal down. i've also read that the PCV valve could be clogged as well.
So, the million dollar question is, does all of this add up to the IMG being blown? or could it be something else?
I have a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L 6cyl w/ about 105K miles.

It could be the fuel filter and if you don't know the history on it I would spend the 20 bucks for a new one and swap it out.

If you read the FAQs it mentions about how to test for a leaking intake manifold gasket :

http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq5

Something that has been showing up even more lately on the new V6 engine, the intake gaskets are starting to leak and break. If the gasket is leaking real bad you can hear an air leak from the engine, almost like the airbox is not tight.

Using a can of carb cleaner you can check this very easy. Spray around the intake, most of the time on the drivers side, and you can find the leak.

i don't know if this is a symptom of anything else, but my idle gets rougher and the engine almost stalls when i engage the a/c. so, i'm not sure if that's a sign that the timing belt/chain is bad or just another symptom of a bad IMG.
and yes, i've tried the old "spray carb cleaner on the intake manifold" trick a couple of times to check for a leaking gasket, but i haven't noticed any change in the idle. although, now that i think of it, every time i've tried it the car was already warmed up. which means that the hole could have been closed b/c of expansion. i'll give it a try one more time when the engine is cold and report back.

i tried spraying the carb cleaner on my instake manifold and it didn't do much. it did, however, make a small popping noise when i sprayed it on the gasket at cylinder 3 (the cylinder that I replace the ignition coil on). i don't know if this is due to the heat of the engine or a leak in the gasket.

i'm still going to go through w/ replacing the fuel filter, replacing the PCV valve, and maybe trying some Lucas fuel system/injector cleaner this afternoon to see if that makes a difference.

but, after hearing that popping noise, i'm leaning more towards a leaking intake manifold gasket as the main problem.

for those of you who have replaced their gaskets, how long should it take and do i need anything more than a ratchet, screwdriver, a new gasket, and gasket sealant? i've read the instructions on the isuzu faq, but i want to hear first hand how much a of pain in the a$$ it is before i give it a go.

No sealant for a start.
Cut down 6mm (from memory) hex key if you want to take off the fuel regulator bracket. Very difficult if you don't.
Spanner for the EGR tube nut. Is it 27mm? Should be in the descriptions.
1/4" drive socket set is good for the awkward nuts.
Torque wrench that reads 13 ft-lb.
Lots of patience.
Missus to make you a cup of tea.

'99

then i think i have all the tools i need. thanks for the input. although, i might have to ignore your suggestion for tea and substitute beer. :wink:

this wknd i'm going to do the whole seafoam thing to clean my engine out, get an oil change, then replace the fuel filter and pcv valve. if that doesn't do it, then i'll be buying a new gasket.

wish me luck!

one more thing, my "check trans" light came on and was flashing today. so, i've got that going for me...which is nice.

interesting... that typically comes on because of low tranny fluid or a weak electrical system...

Maybe the other things are all caused by a weak electrical system?

You may want to try to clean up the battery posts and the spots to where the battery grounds to.

How old is the battery?

i read some other stuff on here about loose wires and electrical problems causing the CEL and "Check Trans" light to display in error. i wonder if that's it. and the battery's only a few months old, but the cables have all kinds of corrosion crap all over them from the old battery. i think they're getting a good connection, but maybe not.
how do you suggest I clean em? maybe some degreaser and a wire brush?

Wire brush and little sand paper and little baking soda in water...

well, i cleaned the battery cables and terminals last night, but it didn't do any good. i guess i'll go through w/ my original plan to clean out the engine and replace the fuel filter and pcv valve.
i'm worried about the transmission though. i had a completely new trans put in about 6 mths ago, so its covered under their warranty. maybe i'll just take it over there and have them look at it.

ok, i cleaned the battery terminals, i did the seafoam treatment in the intake, crankcase, and gas, i got an oil change, i replaced the fuel filter and the pcv valve, and yet it still sputers and makes a popping noise when i first start it up and lightly press the gas. then i press hard on the gas and it revs up and goes...but w/ only about half the power that it should have. i'm leaning towards the gasket being blown, but now that i have the "check trans" light, i'm not so sure. maybe it's electrical. i'm tempted to just drive it into a lake. lol

one last thing before i take my truck in to a technician to have it looked at...when it's sitting in idle in "park" it's much smoother than when it's in gear. then, when i engage the a/c, it gets way worse. sputtering really bad like its gonna stall. could this be the timing belt after all? that would explain the loss of power, sputtering, rough idle when in gear, and change of idle when a/c is engaged would it not? can anyone validate this theory? or should i just bite the bullet and take it into an isuzu dealership and pay hundreds of dollars to have them look at it and tell me what's really wrong w/ it?

Buehler? Buehler?

I'm back. I took my truck into the Aamco that did the work on my transmission a year ago and they said I've got codes for the O2 sensor, multiple misfires, misfire on cylinder 5, the solenoid something-or-other in the transmission, and god knows what else. He told me I need a tune-up and a new EGR valve. I told him I already replaced the plugs, the PCV valve, the EGR valve, and that I have a K&N air filter. His exact words were "hmmmmmm?" So, I think I need to take it to an Isuzu dealership. I'm thinking that they're the only one's who might have some kind of idea what's causing all of these problems. So, I'm right back where I started.

Have you fixed all the problems with misfires? what all was done

I'm back. I took my truck into the Aamco that did the work on my transmission a year ago and they said I've got codes for the O2 sensor, multiple misfires, misfire on cylinder 5, the solenoid something-or-other in the transmission, and god knows what else. He told me I need a tune-up and a new EGR valve. I told him I already replaced the plugs, the PCV valve, the EGR valve, and that I have a K&N air filter. His exact words were "hmmmmmm?" So, I think I need to take it to an Isuzu dealership. I'm thinking that they're the only one's who might have some kind of idea what's causing all of these problems. So, I'm right back where I started.Interesting. How old is the K&N filter? I've got similar problems and a K&N filter. Perhaps I should remove it and see what happens. I've also heard that a clogged catalytic converter can cause similar problems, but don't quote me on it.

I have a code P0300 and that tells me just misfire. I changed the spark plugs, PCV and put in a K&N filter.

But still get the code... any idea how could that be fixed..

I have a code P0300 and that tells me just misfire. I changed the spark plugs, PCV and put in a K&N filter.

But still get the code... any idea how could that be fixed..
Did you change the wires? I think they go bad more frequently than the plugs.

it's a 2000 model and does not have wires. I have 6 coils on top of the plugs...

Did you ever get this resolved? I am having similar issues with my 2001 3.2L.

it's a 2000 model and does not have wires. I have 6 coils on top of the plugs...

Well I'm new to this forum as I recently bought a '95 Passport (V6 4WD) with 205k miles on it. Just needed something cheap to drive to work.

I've done quite a bit of research on this as it seems my #5 cylinder just isn't doing much... anyway to your problem.

Have you Ohm'd out the coil? I recently found this (http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/ic100474.htm) site which seems to have some good info but you may end up having to take it somewhere that has the right diagnostic equipment.

I've been fighting this on my 2001 3.2 almost since new. I've taken it to the dealer and had the fuel pressure regulator replaced twice, fuel filter, IMG and spark plugs. I've removed and cleaned the EGR, run Sea Foam through it etc, etc. At one point it got to the point where it would hardly idle at all. That's when the dealer put the IMG on it. That fixed the major (virtually undriveable) issue but they never got rid of the intermittent P0300 code or the stumbling on cold start up.
As often as I read about this on forums I have to believe that Isuzu has a bulletin on it.