Engine won't start

I have a 92 Pontiac Transport. When I last drove it the engine light came on then it quietly died - no chugging or missing - just smoothly lost power. Now it won't start. I checked the fuel pump and it spits out gas. I also have spark coming from the plugs. It cranks and turns over smoothly but just won't start. Can anyone help this single Granny? My garage in Canada wants $150 to scope it plus repair costs. If it is a simple sensor I can repair it myself. TY in advance Anna :crying:

can you hear the starter physically crank the engine when you turn the key?
What is the exact amount of fuel pressure you have?
Do you have injector pulse?
How strong is the spark you have?
Did you check for diagnostic trouble codes, if so what are they?
Do all the lights and gauges work on the dash when you turn the key on?

Price out the cost of everything that gets recommended to you to try and then look at the cost of diagnostic time. Then factor in the $3,000 to $5,000 dollars for the scan tool, $1000 + dollars a year to keep the scan tool updated, A couple hundred dollars for a decent multi-meter, $300 to $500 dollars for a fuel pressure gauge set, the subscription to an automotive database, the tens of thousands of dollars in tools needed to do the repairs, and the experience and ability of a person that can do the diagnostics accurately and quickly (priceless IMO). Somehow $150 doesn't seem so bad.

I am on a disability pension of $849 per month. My rent in the slum area of Windosr (Peter Street) is $550 plus utilities. Now tell me $150 plus repair cost is too much? It wouldn't be bad if they charged me that fee if I took it somewhere else to be serviced but that is not the case. Even if THEY do the repair work it is still an extra charge.

You financial situation is irrelevant!

Getting back to the problem, you can hear the fuel pump running? Do you know what the fuel pressure is? Does it start if you use carb spray?

We need the answers to the questions in order to help you further!!

...... It cranks and turns over smoothly but just won't start.
If it cranks and has spark, then may be it does not have fuel...or....other things..but before that, the diagnostic and probabilities are different depending on engine type...so..3.1 or 3.8?

when I was growing up there was a chain fall hanging from every tree as kids learned how to repair cars. Now cars are so complicated that skill is taken away from our kids and all they know are punching keys on a computer. financial situations are relevant as car manufacturers build cars so only they can repair them. I won't buy a new car until I can get one of their engineers to change a starter in less than 20 minutes. If not buy older and learn some work skills. As far as starting your car, with everything turned off (radio off) turn key on and have someone listen near you gas filler for a hum. This will show pump is working as because when you turn key you get a "bell sound". Now you have to see if you are getting fuel pressure. I have disconected fuel line after fuel filter (be careful) and quickly turned key on and off.

Now you have to see if you are getting fuel pressure. I have disconected fuel line after fuel filter (be careful) and quickly turned key on and off.

The 3.1 and 3.8 will both have test ports for testing fuel pressure. There is no need to remove any fuel lines unless a repair is involved.

I think you can pull codes on your vehicle without a scanner (read about it in this forum..) The only way to get out of getting hosed on scanning charges is to get your own. They are available cheap & pay for themselves quick.

yup OBDI you can ground the A & B terminals in the ALDL. Turn the key on and count the number of time the check engine light flashes.

Just to clarify for the original poster, you should be able to retrieve codes from your vehicle without having to plug in a scanner & in other words.. free, no money involved.

To try to explain in the simplest way, it involves connecting 2 (A & B) wires/pins where the scanner would normally plug in & then use the ignition key as described in the prior post. I'm not actually hands on familiar with the procedure as my car is a 96 & requires use of a OBDII scanner.

There is more info in these forums with pix on how to do this with your car & I'm looking for it.

EDIT - found a few links & pix that should help.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/images/bl428lib.htm

http://www.aldlcable.com/ http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/graphics/spacer.gif

The Quick Paper Clip Test
Since we are looking at the connector pins, it should be mentioned here that a quick method to see which trouble code or codes are being set in your cars ECM is to jumper the A and B pins of the 12 pin ALDL OBD1 connector with a paper clip. While the car is off, sitting still, turn the ignition key forward while this jumper is in place. Do not start the car. The Service Engine Soon ( SES ) light will flash in a repeating sequence, telling which trouble codes have been set in the ECM. A service manual for your year car will have a chart outlining what each trouble code stands for, or this Trouble Code website (http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/) can be of help. This paper clip method will tell you the trouble code or codes set in your ECM, but it will not tell you what conditions the trouble code is being set under, or let you clear the trouble codes on the fly, as the ALDL cable and PC setup will.http://i26.tinypic.com/69j9ko.gif

Id like this guy to show me where on the 3.1L TBI there is a port to check fuel pressure at....and than expain why i had to buy a $20 fuel lin adapter to tee into the fuel line so i had a port for my pressure gauge....:rolleyes:

Welcome to AF. So you expect an answer after 7 months, good point though, check the dates before posting, thanks.