95 LeSabre Security Light, VATS bypass issues

My '95 Lesabre Limited totally failed to start about a week ago. Starter does not turn over and the "SECURITY" light is on in the dash. The battery is well charged.
My initial diagnosis was that the key cylinder connectors for the VATS had gone. The little spring loaded connectors in the key cylinder seemed a little floppy. After reading this post:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=625478
I decided to attempt to bypass the Passkey system. I'm not concerned about having a fuctional VATS. I measured the resistance of the key and it corresponded to the #10 at 3.82 Ohms. I purchased a resistor pack off of ebay that contained all 15 and selected the #10 resistor which measured @ exactly 3.74 Ohms. I found the small, 20 gauge double wires in the orange sleeve under the steering column. I diked them off and jumped them to each other of the dash side via the #10 resistor and some aligator clips. Then I tried the ignition, but the SECURITY light was still on and the starter did not turn.
I then decided to try again farther upstream. I removed the glove box and the VATS module from behind it. I opened the module, removed the circuit board from the plastic housing and located the B7 and B8 pins indicated in the above link. I plugged the naked VATS circuit board back into the harness. Then I bent the connections of the resistor around and, using a pair of pliars to hold it, directly jumped the B7 and B8 pins where they were soldered on the bottom of the circuit board with the resistor. While I held it there I had my wife attempt to start the car. No dice. The SECURITY light was still on and the starter still did not budge.

Now I'm starting to run out of ideas.
Does it sound like I'm doing the right things?
Is it possible to be "locked out" by the VATS after too many attempts to start with a SECURITY fault?
If so how do you reset the system?
What else should I be trying?

Using "alligator clips" to secure the resistor to the wires may interfere with the resistance reading. Did you see a 2-wire connector at the base of the steering column (plug terminal) in the wiring? If so, cut the wires abouit 1-ft above the connector (decoder side) and remove the plug, solder the resistor between the two wires, then reconnect the plug into the terminal. Remember, if it fails on the first attempt and the security light flashes, you must wait 4-minutes before another attempt; otherwise, the 4-min timer starts all over again.

My key has the #10, 3.74 KOhm resistor. I have an equivalent #10 resistor from a VATS bypass resistor pack.
"DIRECTED ELECTRONICS 652T GM VATS BYPASS KIT"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=220383851329

There is no 2-wire connector under the steering column. The wires I was working with under the steering colmun are here:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=55364&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=1
The cut end runs up the steering column. I tried connecting these 2 wires with the #10 resistor and alegator clips. I had waited well over 4 minutes from the last start attempt and had even disconnected the battery for a time. The security light came on when I tried the ignition.

Then I tried working on what I think is the VATS module here:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=55361&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=1
It is behind the glove box tucked up behind the vent ducting.
Osberve the Purple/White and White/Black wires shown here:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=55362&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=1
I traced these wires to pins labeled B7 and B8 here.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=55363&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=1
I scraped off the epoxy coating and touched the #10 resistor ends directly to the solder pins labeled B7 and B8. When I did the resistance between B7 and B8 dropped from 4.something KOhms to exactly 2.0 KOhms. I then plugged the naked board in the harness and held the resistor so that it jumped B7 and B8 (with pliars, not soldered). I had my wife try to start the car. It had been well over 4 minutes and again, the battery had been disconnected. The security light came on again. No dice.

Sanity check / Questions:
Did I identify the correct wires under the steering column?

Did I correctly identify the VATS module?

Did I identify the correct wires to jump at the VATS module? (Purple/White to White/Black)

Did I correctly identify VATS module pins B7 and B8?

If I solder the #10 resistor (same as my key) to directly jump solder pins B7 and B8, should that sucessfully bypass the VATS? The advantage here is that I can remove the module to solder it. The harness itself is not easy to work on.

What else could I be missing here?

Many thanks,
-Carnie

zzzzz plan is good. but most time the white wire brakes down they made so thin i think for more money on mccanics. if you do it zzz way i think your in bussiness.

I'd be sure of the Vats resistor value- Call your dealer with your VIN- they can tell you for sure which one it is- would be good to know that it is DEFINITELY a #10 anyway......or buy a radio shack variable potentiometer ($1.50) and do the trial and error method.....

I think it is much easier to simply use the wiring harness and not disassemble the VATS box. Also, trying to solder onto a circuit board like that can easily ruin the board if you burn it or overcook the solder and run the spots together, etc. (unless you have good equipment.) Here is what I did: I took my resistor and soldered additional wire length to each end and heat-shrink-tubed the whole thing so that it was maybe six-eight inches long total. Then I cut through the insulation of the two wires in question where I could best access them (remove any black tape holding the harness wires together for now.) Then, I wrapped one end of the resistor wire thing to one of the exposed wires and then soldered it. I repeated for the other one. I then wrapped it all in black tape and carefully put the wires where they would not be disturbed or damaged when putting everything back. Both of my 92s still are going strong with no security system bogging me down. (The 95 is undoubtedly somewhat different from a 92 and your mileage may vary.) Also, don't 95s have passenger side air bags? The 92s do not.

What are your exact symptoms? What trouble codes have you got if any?

i had this issue on a bonniville go to youtube type in gm bypass and it will tell you how it might be the same

I have a 95 lasabre. Had this problem several years ago. If I recall I removed the two pins B7 and B8 from the connector, and cut the wires to them. Then I directly soldered the resistor to pins, and reinserted the pins back into the connector, then connected it back to the module. I never had another problem. It's a little tricky removing the pins from the connector as they have a little loking tab that needs to be pushed on when trying to remove the pin. Or you can just cut the wires from B7 and B8 back about 3 inched and do the soldering under the glove box. Either way you have to take those wires out of the system, meaning cut them clean out. No temporary jumping or anything. The module has to see that resistance +/- 100 ohms, I think. Don't forget to cap and stow those two wires taht are left hanging.