Valvetrain Noise

Hello,

I've picked up a lifter tick on the driver's side until I hit 150-200 degrees water temp.

About 117k miles on this motor.

Normal for a 2000 with this mileage, or do I need to look into it further?

Also, can the valves be adjusted like the old small block Chevy V8s or is it a different design?

No codes.

Thanks,

Josh <><

Hello,

I've picked up a lifter tick on the driver's side until I hit 150-200 degrees water temp.

About 117k miles on this motor.

Normal for a 2000 with this mileage, or do I need to look into it further?

Also, can the valves be adjusted like the old small block Chevy V8s or is it a different design?

No codes.

Thanks,

Josh <><

My 2000 Jimmy did the same thing only mine wasn't a tick, it was more like a bone chilling Knock. Scared the hell out of me. I did a crankcase flush and all was well. After that, I started using Mobil 1 Synthetic and never had another problem.

Here is what I did.

I recommend using "GUNK" brand engine flush if you are not leaking oil. Just add a bottle of engine flush to a warm engine and allow it to idle for 10-15 minutes to dissolve out the crud and sludge in the engine. Remember, ONLY IDLE DO NOT REV THE ENGINE OR DRIVE THE TRUCK WITH THE FLUSH IN IT.

Also, I recommend putting on a new cheap fram filter while you are doing the flush so it catches all the crud coming out of the engine. The filter will be plugged in minutes so it is best to have a fresh filter on there while doing it. Then drop the oil and the cheap filter and install your new oil and a good non-fram filter. Also note, to get all of the flush out, I recommend pouring a bit of fresh oil in while the drain plug is out to get all of the old oil out of the pan.

Now if you are me and you want to do a really GOOD FLUSH, drop the old oil before you do the flush and add 3 quarts of some bargain basement 10w30 in with the engine flush and the cheap filter so you get the best flush possible. Remember, you are only doing this once, so the extra $10 will go a long way. You will be amazed how dirty the new oil comes out with the flush. Then drain, and add the new filter and the new 5w30 oil with a little new oil in through the fill so you can get it all out of the pan like I stated earlier.

I've known of guys to use 1 qt. of ATF fluid "type F" in place of 1 qt of oil. Or if you could get your hands on some Marvel mystery oil you could get some positive results as well. You could drive the vehicle for a short time with this method.

I have a 2000 S10 Blazer witch had 50,000 miles that did the same thing. It stopped after doing a complete engine flush. What I did was buy 5 quarts of shell brand motor oil and a cheap filter and 5 quarts of Mobil 1 syn and a AC Delco Filter. First I change my cheap Filter and oil with the shell brand. Then added the engine flush running it for 30 minutes at Idle( DO NOT REV YOUR ENGINE OR DAMAGE COULD OCCUR)......After the 30 minutes I put in 1 more shell quart to rinse any left over flush. Drain The oil... Add New AC Delco filter and Mobil1 Oil( Or what ever brand Your prefer) Most guys her Like Mobil 1 or CASTROL GTX I also like Napa golds. For added measure I put in Lucas synthetic treatment with is probably overkill but I plan on keeping my blazer for awhile... But here's the kicker I've always been under the impression that this procedure is not suppose to be used on high mileage engines so it's up to you if you want to take a chance, but this is the only way I would flush a engine otherwise your going to run the risk of severe damage. My truck now has 90,000 miles and still no tick.

I recommend using a Crankcase flush that is designed for that specific purpose. I do not recommend ATF. I have also seen internet reports about overheating due to Lucas oil additive.

I would be very particular and careful about what I dumped into my engine. However, I think we all pretty much agree that an engine flush is in order here.

I recommend using a Crankcase flush that is designed for that specific purpose. I do not recommend ATF. I have also seen internet reports about overheating due to Lucas oil additive.

I would be very particular and careful about what I dumped into my engine. However, I think we all pretty much agree that an engine flush is in order here.


Just out of curiosity rick do you have a link to any substantiated proof that lucas synthetic additive does damage to any particular engine, from my understanding the additive is pure synthetic. The reason I ask is I've been religiously using this in my truck for 30,000 miles thinking it would add life to engine. I haven't had any valvetrain noise comeback after the flush and good maintainance. Also rick i'm not talking about there heavy oil stabilizer, I've been adding there pure synthetic treatment.

http://lucasoil.hodgsoncorp.com/lucas_synthetic_oil_stabilizer.htm

UPDATE No need rick I found enough info myself to make me want to stop using it check this info out..

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

But I will say this my oil has never looked like that even after running for a while.

See this post, http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=605545

I had an issue in 2006. I did a search on this Forum that revealed the info on Lucas as I stated in the first Post. I just tried searching again and did not find what I remember finding before. I do recall posts made by people claiming that the Lucas Oil resulted in their engine burning up.

Here is a little more info:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm According to this article, air is trapped in the oil and you have less oil on your friction points.


http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=634684&highlight=Lucas+Oil+Additive


http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=618408&highlight=Lucas+Oil+Additive

I am not saying it is bad or doesn't work, I am simply saying be careful.

Thanks folks. Looks like an oil circulation problem that a flush will fix.

Don't really like flushing engines, but I guess I've done it with Marvel oil before with mixed results.

At least it's not a collapsed lifter or anything like that... I hope :)