coil pack and spark plugs
charlie40
04-15-2009, 07:21 PM
can any help? 2002 ford van triton 5.4 what is the best way to changes these? any help would be great.
rhandwor
04-16-2009, 08:30 AM
These engines have a coil for every plug. I would only change coils if the engine is missing.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_2369.htm This is a new Ford size other wise use a 5/8 inch plug socket. You need an extension to reach the plug. You also will need a 1/4 inch drive metric socket set.
Do one at a time the passenger side is easier. The drivers side is tight and can be done if you have small hands. Otherwise on my 1999 I had to loosen the fuel rail to get one or two of the coils out.
Use antiseeze on the plug threads and don't strip out.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_2369.htm This is a new Ford size other wise use a 5/8 inch plug socket. You need an extension to reach the plug. You also will need a 1/4 inch drive metric socket set.
Do one at a time the passenger side is easier. The drivers side is tight and can be done if you have small hands. Otherwise on my 1999 I had to loosen the fuel rail to get one or two of the coils out.
Use antiseeze on the plug threads and don't strip out.
charlie40
04-16-2009, 08:23 PM
thanks for the info i was wondering about the fuel rail it looks cramped.
madhava
09-01-2009, 12:40 PM
I have 2001 e150 with 4.6 V8. Same questions as above. But can you tell more about how you "loosened fuel rods"? I definitely can't get at coil packs with rod in way, but I don't want to risk fuel leaks by messing too much with fuel rods. How much do you loosen. I take it you didn't remove them completely?
rhandwor
09-01-2009, 07:21 PM
Its been a long time but I remember two bolts holding the fuel rail on each side. Only one side had a problem I pulled the two bolts but didn't pry up on the rail just pushed it over enough to remove the coil. Their stuck on the o-rings on top of the injectors. I've had leaks before on other engines and had to buy new o-rings. If you push sideways instead of up it shouldn't leak but can leak.
Unless you have very small hands it has to be moved a little bit.
Unless you have very small hands it has to be moved a little bit.
charlie40
09-01-2009, 08:06 PM
x-2 i had do do the same thing. didnt have any leaks. dont pull up just push enough tho get the coil off.
Scrapper
09-02-2009, 12:04 AM
the reason why they did that is so you have to change injectors or o-rings more money deal if you screw them up but it can be done as there saying.
good luck......
good luck......
knelleken
09-17-2009, 01:52 AM
the 4.6/5.4 tune up in short
no need to remove the fuel rail. it is not necessary. remove the dog house(e van), remove the power steering reserve bottle mount, pcv to throttle body hoses, dpfe sensor feed back lines(2 hoses coming off the egr pipe) remove connectors going to the coils and connectors going to the fuel injectors. remove and or pull away anything else (wires and or hoses) that could be in the way.(some items might not need to be removed on e vans.)
go to sears and buy a 1/4 drive 7mm chrome wobble socket and a 3 inch and 6inch 1/4 drive extension and a small telescoping magnet. remove the coil hold down screws with said equipment(be carefull not to let the screws drop down into the vally) remove coils. some coil boots might try and stick. if shop air is available, blow them loose with a blow gun. if not try spraying something down there and twisting and pulling it out. next, take your Harbor freight tools extra deep spark plug socket and a 3/8 wobble and remove the spark plugs. (sometimes i need 2 impact wobbles and my extra deep plug socket)
install in reverse order.
no need to remove the fuel rail. it is not necessary. remove the dog house(e van), remove the power steering reserve bottle mount, pcv to throttle body hoses, dpfe sensor feed back lines(2 hoses coming off the egr pipe) remove connectors going to the coils and connectors going to the fuel injectors. remove and or pull away anything else (wires and or hoses) that could be in the way.(some items might not need to be removed on e vans.)
go to sears and buy a 1/4 drive 7mm chrome wobble socket and a 3 inch and 6inch 1/4 drive extension and a small telescoping magnet. remove the coil hold down screws with said equipment(be carefull not to let the screws drop down into the vally) remove coils. some coil boots might try and stick. if shop air is available, blow them loose with a blow gun. if not try spraying something down there and twisting and pulling it out. next, take your Harbor freight tools extra deep spark plug socket and a 3/8 wobble and remove the spark plugs. (sometimes i need 2 impact wobbles and my extra deep plug socket)
install in reverse order.
shawnm64
01-29-2013, 11:52 PM
I am trying to remove the electrical plug from coil without breaking it,there is no visible retaining clip and I have not received my new coil yet to see where clip is inside holding together,2001 E150 4.6 individual coils,has anyone ever removed this connector from coil without breaking it,I can see all sides of it but do not have very good hands on access as this is in a van.
DeltaP
01-30-2013, 04:06 PM
Triton 3 valve engine. After the easy part of removing the COP's be prepared to break at least one or two spark plugs. In which case you'll need special tools to extract the remaining spark plug shell depending on how it broke off in the head. Suggest you google this before you get up to your nuts in it and can't pull yourself out. Now you can talk about not having enough room to work,big hands and all that.:jerking:
shawnm64
01-30-2013, 04:25 PM
I have Triton engine,and replaced all 8 of my plugs with no problems except the dropping coil holddown screw part, which added to the 3-5 hr hand ripping madness,no broken plugs thankfully,had never heard of this defect before.
DeltaP
01-31-2013, 03:47 PM
Yours must have been changed once before. The original plugs were defective,IMO. The replacement plugs were improved.
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