2002 ranger won't start 2.3 dohc

i just put a used motor in it .and it want start. ive checked all the wires there all pluged up.i checked for fire and didnt have any.when i bought the used motor the front timing case was broke .so i replaced it .so i had to take off the crank sensor.the automotive manuel that i have says if you take the sensor off you have to replace it with a new one.is this true.would the crank sensor keep it from firing.thanks

I don't see why you would have to change the sensor however I can see that they would say that because probably a good time to. And yes the sensor can cause the problem you are having. First I would check power to the coil packs, should be a red/light green wire if they haven't changed much from my 90 2.3 to your 2002 2.3. Either way you should have 12 volts on one of your wires going to the coil packs.

I don't see why you would have to change the sensor however I can see that they would say that because probably a good time to. And yes the sensor can cause the problem you are having. First I would check power to the coil packs, should be a red/light green wire if they haven't changed much from my 90 2.3 to your 2002 2.3. Either way you should have 12 volts on one of your wires going to the coil packs.yes i checked the wires going to the coil.and ive got power.it says in my haynes repair manual.the new crank sensor has got a special alighment tool with it.ive never heard of one like that.just lit me no if you can think of any thing else.thanks

yes i checked the wires going to the coil.and ive got power.it says in my haynes repair manual.the new crank sensor has got a special alighment tool with it.ive never heard of one like that.just lit me no if you can think of any thing else.thanks

My buick says the same thing, it says that you need one, I just put the sensor in, put the crank pulley on halfway and made sure nothing was going to rub against it, and had no problems with it after finishing the job. Besides the manual also says to check with your local auto parts store, well, I checked 3 of them and none of them carried that tool.

I would try taking the sensor off from the other motor and putting it on there. I would first check for ground pulse to the negative side of your coil while turning the motor over(I said coil packs earlier but then you said coil so I guess you have the distributor type ignition I dunno), if you are getting one the problem is coil. I can't remember if you said you have a new coil or not. Also to a bad ignition module can cause no spark(getting the crank signal from ecm which gets the signal from the crankshaft position sensor but not putting out the ground pulses that are supposed to go to your ignition coil).

My buick says the same thing, it says that you need one, I just put the sensor in, put the crank pulley on halfway and made sure nothing was going to rub against it, and had no problems with it after finishing the job. Besides the manual also says to check with your local auto parts store, well, I checked 3 of them and none of them carried that tool.

I would try taking the sensor off from the other motor and putting it on there. I would first check for ground pulse to the negative side of your coil while turning the motor over(I said coil packs earlier but then you said coil so I guess you have the distributor type ignition I dunno), if you are getting one the problem is coil. I can't remember if you said you have a new coil or not. Also to a bad ignition module can cause no spark(getting the crank signal from ecm which gets the signal from the crankshaft position sensor but not putting out the ground pulses that are supposed to go to your ignition coil). that was the first thing i done was try my other sensor.it only has one coil no distributor.how do i check for ground pulse.thanks

that was the first thing i done was try my other sensor.it only has one coil no distributor.how do i check for ground pulse.thanks

Ok, you should have wires or wire tan/something at your coil. Those should get the ground pulses from ignition module, put a test light clip to a battery positive somewhere, and the probe of the test light to the wire that and it should flicker with someone turning the motor over. If it doesn't then it's either the ignition module or the crank sensor, I doubt both were bad and if the one wasn't broken after removal that didn't work the first time when you took it off then I would try an ignition module.

My buick says the same thing, it says that you need one, I just put the sensor in, put the crank pulley on halfway and made sure nothing was going to rub against it, and had no problems with it after finishing the job. Besides the manual also says to check with your local auto parts store, well, I checked 3 of them and none of them carried that tool.

I would try taking the sensor off from the other motor and putting it on there. I would first check for ground pulse to the negative side of your coil while turning the motor over(I said coil packs earlier but then you said coil so I guess you have the distributor type ignition I dunno), if you are getting one the problem is coil. I can't remember if you said you have a new coil or not. Also to a bad ignition module can cause no spark(getting the crank signal from ecm which gets the signal from the crankshaft position sensor but not putting out the ground pulses that are supposed to go to your ignition coil).
ok if i ground the test light to the ground coil wire.then stick the other end to the hot post on the battary and crank the engine. the light should pulse. is that right.

ok if i ground the test light to the ground coil wire.then stick the other end to the hot post on the battary and crank the engine. the light should pulse. is that right.

yes, and if it does, that means your coil is bad, b/c you already mentioned you are getting 12 volts to the other side.

I know it should be noticeable if when first turning it over, I'm not sure if when an engine is running or not if its noticeable because it would be doing it so fast the light might would look steady then, but I'm not sure but either case it won't matter to you because you will be checking it while trying to crank.

yes, and if it does, that means your coil is bad, b/c you already mentioned you are getting 12 volts to the other side.
i will get out there in the morning and try that.if i learn any thing ill lit you no thanks a lot.

yes, and if it does, that means your coil is bad, b/c you already mentioned you are getting 12 volts to the other side.

I know it should be noticeable if when first turning it over, I'm not sure if when an engine is running or not if its noticeable because it would be doing it so fast the light might would look steady then, but I'm not sure but either case it won't matter to you because you will be checking it while trying to crank.
hey i found out what the problem was for no fire.i had the crank sensor on backwards.but anyway tried to start it up and it wouldnt hit a lick.so i took the vavle cover back off and retimed everything just like the repair manual said,and it fired right up.when i changed the timing cover i had to remove the crank pulley.and that takes it out of time.i had to remove the crank pulley again.then set the two cams in postion with a piece of metal.then you take a bolt out of the side of the block insert another bolt exactly 2 and half inches long,that locks the crank in place at top dead center.then you put the crank pulley back on,then you have to hold the crank pulley with somthing so that it can not move at all while putting the crank pulley bolt back in.thin its in time.the funny thing to me is why isnt there no keys or splines on the cam gears or crank pulley.looks like it would slip out of time to easy.thanks for the help.