89 Riviera leaking gas when running

Without dropping the tank, I am trying to figure out how involved this repair might be. I let the car sit this winter (started it and let it run for 30 minutes a week) and now on the first 60+ degree day I start it up and noticed the smell of raw fuel VERY strong. I look under the car and NOTHING. Start it up and sure enough, steady drip coming from driver's side, between rear driver tire and gas tank. Its not coming directly from the tank and only leaks when the car is running.

It sat in a garage and no vermint or rodents were able to get to it so I know its not an animal causing problems. It leaks steadily too, about 2 drips per second and leaves a pretty nasty puddle/spot when running. If this is going to be a very expensive repair I am cutting ties with this car, this could be the straw that breaks my back, or it could be another Sunday afternoon repair. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

How would we know from here what the source of this leak is, get it up on a lift and see where it comes from under pressure, maybe a line or maybe above the tank, no other way, right?

How would we know from here what the source of this leak is, get it up on a lift and see where it comes from under pressure, maybe a line or maybe above the tank, no other way, right?

I agree or otherwise we would just be speculating.

BTW - I see no problems with maxwedge's post.

So I finally traced the problem of this leak. It appears to be a steel fuel line that goes to the sending unit (?) It has a rubber hose that connects to it right behind the rear driver side tire. It only leaks fuel when running which leads me to believe that it is a feed line (it also wont start on the first crank, usually takes 2 or 3 cranks to turn over)

It is leaking fuel at an alarming rate now as the line is completely corroded and barely anything is left of it. I had to take off my tire just to be able to see where the leak was coming from because the darn car sits so low to the ground. My next questions revolve around:

**how hard is it to drop the tank on this car
-and-
**do I need to replace the sending unit now too?

the only real problem is the metal clips that hold the bolts for the straps. The second problem is with that old girl you are going to find more cheese holed lines than you want to deal with. to save customers money, I cut and drill out all the old lines from the pump and mount, then I run new steal lines, by brazing them back in. The OEM bracket is a little pricey and it takes about 20 min to repair the old one after the tank and bracket is out. Depending on the miles you may want to change the pump.

It has 236,000 miles on it but it also appears that the tank has been removed rather recently (rubber hoses on tank appear to be newer)

Part of me doesn't even want to mess with this repair and I have been considering taking it in if it isn't something I can do in my garage without power tools. I'm just scared of getting the sticker shock of the repair.

I noticed there is some kind of bar type thing (metal line with bushings maybe?) that runs underneath the tank and it appears that it needs to be removed before the tank comes off. Does anyone know what this thing is? I don't have the Chiltons book and there appears to be NOTHING online to help me with any kind of repairs on this darn car.

Usually the lines are fine at the entrance point to the tank because they are protected from the weather by the tank itself. SO, it is not exactly a one fix does all thing. You probably do not need power tools or even welding equipment. The two ways that it can be don is with new pipe and compression couplings, or High-pressure fuel line and high pressure a clamp. If using high-pressure rubber hose, you can slightly flare a steel line then use rubber and a high-pressure clamp on the hose. As long as you firmly tie everything up nicely, it should last for years.

When the dealer gets their fingers on it and start replacing all that stuff with factory pieces, I don’t believe that sticker shock would be a good explanative. Then there is the fact that “that” piece may no longer be available.

Just so that you know; you could probably get away with just a hand drill and some JB weld. The bigger the gob the better the job

the only thing i have is when the car is running and a line is leaking isnt it the return line, the send line always has gas in it up untill the engine but the return lines empty when you start it up the return line fills and the leak is created.just becuase its a big leak dosenot make it the send line it means that the lines just far gone i.e. no line left so if i were you i would just put rubber hose and two clams on the metal line and be done with it there is no point in a pricey repair or replacing the sender if it works and im posotive on this done it many times b4 and obv. if there is already rubber hose there and its not leaking it works as long as you can get your hands on the line no reson to drop the tank please just try it it would only cost less then a buck and would save you time trust me ive been there