95 escort problems

I have this 95 escort that has problems such as check coolant is always on, steering wheel wobbles. The problems with the
Check coolant light is always on is the fuse for the coolant or radiator keeps breaking I don't know what to do... And steering wheel keeps wobbling cuz the alignment might be off so what do I do?. Pls give me inputs in what to do.

Welcome to Automotive Forums!

The coolant bottle has a sending unit that makes the "check coolant" light come on when it gets low. Put a 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture in the coolant reservoir. If the car is using so much coolant that the light keeps coming on have a pressure check of the cooling system to rule out leaks. If it is still using too much coolant have a look at the oil because if the head gasket is leaking it will leak coolant into the oil. I see you live in Kodiak, Alaska. Since it is so cold up there I would have my antifreeze tested to see if it is strong enough to keep from freezing.

The steering wheel wobble could be from the tires needing balanced. If that doesn't work rotate the back tires to the front. If that solves the problem you have either a bent rim or a bad tire. Having the back tires balanced will tell you if it is one of these 2 things because a bad tire and/or rim will require way too much weight to balance or won't balance at all.

I dont understand what you are saying about "the fuse for the coolant or radiator keeps breaking". The Check Coolant Light comes on with my 92 Escort from time to time. The Coolant isnt low, its just the sensor or its connection is cruddy. This was a known problem with the 2nd generation Escorts. If I take out the sensor and clean it with an acidic solvent like muriatic acid, then clean the contacts on the connector at the top of the 'coolant overflow recovery' bottle - the light stays off for a week or two.
There is a fuse for the radiator fan, but I dont know of any for the 'check coolant' light.
Steering wheel wobble is more serious. Is it a wobble at low speed, such as below 30 mph? That would likely be either a tire that is going bad, or a loose tire rod end, or a very bad wheel bearing. A wheel bearing that bad would be making a growling noise that got more noticeable as you went faster. You would hear it unless you always drive with the radio at full blast.
If the wobble is most noticable at some higher speed - such as above 50 mph - then I would think it was a tire/wheel that needed balanced.
If you jack up the front of the car on one side, you should be able to grab the wheel and try to wiggle it. There should be no looseness at all, neither when shaking it with your hands at 'noon' and '6 pm' on the wheel, nor with your hands at the '9 pm' & '3 pm' positions. The tire is going to move a little bit when you move it 'left-to-right-left', but it should only be because the steering wheel is also turning somewhat. If you feel a quarter-inch of movement where the steering wheel isnt turning, that is probably a bad tie rod end. That would need replaced ASAP!
You can also try swapping a front wheel for a rear wheel. If the problem is a bent or unbalanced wheel - this would make the problem feel differently. That is to say, an unbalanced wheel on the back of the car will give you a slight vibration at highway speeds - but it wont feel like it is coming through the steering wheel; which it would if the unbalanced wheel were on the front. And an unbalanced wheel would happen if the wheel got bent - such as sliding into a curb on an icy road.
There are other things that can contribute to a low speed wobble. One of them is if your steering rack assembly is loose where it bolts to the firewall. This has been known to happen on Escorts. The wobble is still due to a tire/wheel imbalance, but the wobble feeling you get at the steering wheel can be more noticeable if the steering rack bolts are not snug. Unfortunately those bolts are not easy to reach. I think the best access would be from underneath.
If you swap front wheels for rear wheels to try and isolate the problem, be sure to spin each of the wheels, to see if they are bent, or if the tire is out of round (from hitting bad potholes). This is easy to do on the rear axle; but the front wheels are not easy to spin - due to disc brake drag and having to turn the axle and transmission internals.
Good Luck.

As mentioned above, do a pressure test on your cooling system. You say your coolant light is always on, but you did not specify if you have been filling the reservoir or not. If the reservoir is low, the light will be on.

As for the wobble you need to be more descriptive about when and how the steering wheel wobbles. As mentioned, it is very possibly an unbalanced wheel(s). I would also recommend checking that the bolts that mount the steering rack to the firewall are secure. I have found a number of these cars that have worked the rack loose over time.

The fuses for radiator keeps burning out after
Putting new ones...yes I have made that mix of antifreeze n water. And the steering wobbles at any speed and I have actually balanced the tires after changing the tie rod end. I'll try to put rear tires to front. Thnx I'll get back after I get results from u guys inputs thank you.

How many miles are on the car?
If over 40,000 and it still has the original tie rod ends, then you need new ones.

~101,000, I have changed the tie rod ends jst end of january... N haven't driven it since then cuz the snow...but now snow is almost gone so ive been driving it since last week. I jst put the antifreeze yesterday n a new 40A fuse for the cooling fan, but burnt out after an hour or so, so I'm gna check the thermostat im changing it since I bought one...

If a 40A fuse blew after an hour - then you should check for either a bad/siezed radiator fan motor, or a fan that is prevented from turning by obstruction. It could also be a chafed/exposed wire that is shorting to ground somewhere. If its not a bad fan motor, you face the time consuming chore of following the wires back to try and find a point where they are shorting out. Three wires run to the fan; a ground wire, one for the low speed fan, and one for the high speed fan. They could even be melted together.
As for the wheel wobble: Besides swapping wheels around (you can use the spare too) you could try having someone drive alongside your car as you drive down some 4 lane street having no traffic, to look for wheels that are bent or beginning to 'hop' due to imbalance or being out of round. Of course you can do this check on the front wheels, by jacking one side up so the wheel is in the air - and running it in gear. But remember; when the speedo reads 30 mph - the tire is spinning as if you were going 60 mph, because the other tire is not turning.
One more thought; try pushing the tail end of the car down/up/down, just to see if you have a siezed strut in back.

Jst chnged all struts... I'll check the wiring tho thnx..

Sounds like you might be doing some unnecessary work here.
Have you pressure tested your radiator yet? Have you verified that the reservoir is at the appropriate level? You said the car is using excessive coolant and that the light is on... but is it overheating? Have you checked for antifreeze in your oil?
Have you checked the steering rack to make sure it is secure?
Did the steering wheel wobble start when you recently changed the struts/tie rods, or did you change the parts because of the wobble? Did you do it yourself? Did you torque everything properly? Were the axles removed? If so, was the large nut on the end of the axle torqued properly?

You need to provide a lot more information here or else you are going to spend a lot of time and money just changing parts until something works.

Coolant-Yes have pressure tested, resevoir is filled jst below full with 50/50 antifreeze,yes it is overheating goes to half way up the higher jst before the red line,yes also checked for antifreeze in the oil there was none.

Steering-steering was already wobbly before I changed the struts/tie rods and it was me my friend and my auto teacher who changed it and no we did not take the axle off.

I suspect you have a plugged up radiator.
If the coolant light is coming on and the reservoir is at the proper level, then the sensor is probably malfunctioning or the wiring is bad.
As for the steering, I still suggest you check the mounts of the steering rack. If they are loose then that will account for the wobbling. I have found several cars where these mounts worked loose over time. If your steering components check out ok, then your wheels are probably not balanced, or were not balanced properly, or lost a weight somewhere along the line.

Thanx my car doesn't overheat anymore but still light is on but yes I'll check wiring n sensor.

Steering Is wat I needa focus on a lot. I'll check the rack ty guys

Ok... in your last post you said that it does overheat.
It is hard to help without accurate information!

alright i have got everything fixed...but now there's another problem. i notice that when i press the gas slowly my car would accelerate at a steady pace, but when i would press the gas down fast my car doesnt accelerate it would jst over rev and not move. my car idles below 1000 rpm, it takes awhile to start backing up when i try to reverse and when at a stop sign my car would almost die out, and also takes awhile to start moving forward. my car is auto transmission and 1.9L engine. i have no idea of what is causing this. i need help so tell me if you need more info.

As for the car not moving forward when you step on the gas to accelerate, and taking its time about going into reverse - I believe that is a sign of either a transmission that is very low on ATF, or one that is worn-out. By worn-out I mean the frictional materials inside it are worn enough that it is slipping a lot.
So check the tranny fluid ASAP, and if its low - add some. You check it with the engine idling, and the tranny in Park, and preferrably after having driven it a mile or two.
If it has enough fluid in it - it still could be a clogged filter in the bottom of the tranny. So dropping that pan and changing the filter (along with the 4 or so quarts of ATF that will run out) would be my next step. Its a messy and time consuming step, but its what I would advise.
After that I would check that all of the electrical connections on the tranny are secure and that the wiring isnt corroded or chewed up. There are two multi-pin connectors, and a single wire connector. To check them out on my car I would remove the air filter housing, the battery, and the battery box. This is only hard the first time - much easier to do the second/third time.
Then let us know what you find.

k i will check this out...hopefully i can make it to the shop in my school. this would be my first time, but i am willing to learn. thnx ill get back at you about what i can find.

trans was slipping causes it to rev n not move...my teacher gave me a quart of this liquid to help fix the slipping and it works so thanx for ur help... Appreciate it!