cooling system problem 94 3.3

94 Voyager 3.3 auto 192,000 miles

This work is all being done in a apartment building parking lot.

I just bought this vehicle so I don't have any history on it. There seemed to be a head gasket problem when I bought it.

Replaced head gaskets and right band head (because of the rocker arm support by # 1 clyinder was broke)

I have been trying to burp the coolant system with the vehicle on steel ramps that raise the vehicle I would say good 16"s. Once the coolant fan kicks on the coolant starts to push out the radiator cap opening, then the thermostat opens (195* new) and starts spouting the coolant out the radiator cap opening just like it is overheating (temp gauge shows normal operating temp, never any higher). I am not sure about the heater core but I think it is partially blocked. My next step is to remove water pump and inspect, I am thinking that the propellers have deteriated so the coolant is not circulating.

Any ideas appreciated.

Sounds like you could have a compression leak from a cylinder pushing air into the cooling system, possibly from a hairline crack that could easily be missed.

Hopefully your lucky with a water pump problem, but if the temp gauge is showing normal I would suspect a crack somewhere in the head or block. forcing pressure where it shouldn't be... Have you had a chance to try pressure testing the cooling system or seeing how much pressure it has when this problem occurs?

What problems is it giving you with normal driving?

Are you losing coolant anywhere else into exhaust or crankcase?


Dale

I would think that if it is a compression leak I would be seeing bubbles in the coolant at cold start to time the thermostat opens.

Hmmmm - all I can think of then is a weak radiator cap, if otherwise it runs fine and does not overheat....

Quite intriguing indeed.

Dale

Radiator cap is not on. I have not driven as I am trying to get all the air out of system. Very little heat out of heater core also at this time.

To burp air out of the system you might take the heater hose off that is connected to the pipe at the back of the intake. Add coolant until it runs out an reinstall the hose. Also try warming it up with the cap on; when the fan cycles and has run for about 10 seconds remove cap and top off. You can also remove the coolant sensor to purge air but on this engine you have a problem with the coil pack; but it's only 4 bolts to remove it.

Use a water hose and disconnect both heater hose lines. Put the hose in one the water should run freely. I would drain and save anti freeze first.
Pull both radiator hoses use rags and hold the hose into one hose water should flow through the engine. Put a hose on the top connection of the radiator use rags and flush the radiator water should run freely top to bottom. I would also pull the pump while the system is drained.
You had a cold winter something may have froze and cracked as was suggested.

Thanks for tips guys. I have looked for a coolant system circulation diagram for the 3.3 but have not found one, I thought I saw one someplace but cannot find where. Can anyone point me in the right direction??

Thanks

Ok I took off the hose from the back of inake filled coolant until it ran out and hooked up hose. Installed a flushing tee on the return hose to intake (hose without the valve on it). I left the cap on the flushing tee loose si air could escape but that did not help either, acutally latter I removed the tee cap completely and nothing came out even when the thermostat opened and still had the same problem.

So I drained system and removed the water pump, propellers are fine, propeller fan is still solid on pump shaft. The weap hole has dirt collected in it and it does look like it leaked at one time. I am thinking that someone did use some stop leak at one time.

I need to flush like system like rhandwor suggest but I live in a apartment building and that could be a problem but I will get some containers to catch water.

HERES THE BAD NEWS: When removing the water pump 2 of the 5 bolts bolts twisted off in the front cover even after backing tightening them up and then again looseing to clean threads, so I suppose I will have to remove front cover now to either replace cover or drill the bolts out and retap.

I am undecided if I should try to fix this engine or just replace it and be done, like suggested it could very well have a cracked head or block.

Thoughts

PS: The oil is not milky looking.

If you have a 1/4 inch of bolt left tap with a hammer and spray with PB Blaster for a day. Use some vise grips and try to remove them before drilling.

1 bolt is flush and the may have a touch of the bolt extending outward. They are the ones closest to the grill. If I can get one of them out how badly would the water pump leak around the seal with only four bolts. Reason I ask is that I still may have the posssiblity of a cracked head or block so I don't want to stick money into it until I know the source being unable to burp the system.

thanks rhandwor

You maybe able to get by but it won't seal completely. I have center punched the hole and drilled and taped with the pump in place. Be very careful if the pump case is aluminum. Use a thin metal sleeve if possible.
I would check the radiator first you can pull it and flush it at a relatives place.

I attempted to drill the bolts and use a easy out after I lowered the engine as much as possible without any luck, I don't have a 90* drill.

What I did is replaced the O ring then added blue RTV at the O ring area then installed the 3 remaining bolts, then used vise grips on both broken bolt areas and let the RTV to set up for about 15 hours before adding coolant. (I removed the A/C compressor and bracket for better access). I have had it running several times now to normal operating temp without any leakage. When I had everything removed to lower engine I noticed that the new hose (bypass) from water pump to intake had a crimp in it, I had the hose about 1" to long, Shortened it and it seems to have better circulation without spurting coolant out when thermostat opens.

I am thinking of fabricating a steel plate to help hold the water pump in place at broken bolt areas by bolting it to the A/C compressor bracket bolts to help hold the pump properly in place. If I do I will take pics and post them.

Right now I am going to drive it.

I also did a leak down test on the left bank and could not see any bubbles in radiator, so I believe my head and gaskets to be OK.

HAPPY EASTER everyone.