zero paints on tamiya paints?

Hi,
I am a newbie to modelling, done some extensive research on the two paints as memtioned above, however, I am still not sure whether the 'mix' will work.

I am planning on painting a tamiya x-1 gloss black layer, with the intension of spraying a layer of silver zero paint on top of that plus masking, to create 2 black racing strip lines in a silver body, will the zero paint eats into the tamiya paint or am I in the clear?

any help will be great :p

gordon

Welcome to AF, and to the hobby!! :wave:

It depends which Tamiya paint. Tamiya makes three different varieties- alcrylic, enamel, and spray lacquer. If you use Zero over the spray lacquer, you may get away with it. But do not try it over acrylic or enamel- the Zero will destroy them.

If what you want is black stripes on silver, an easier way is to use black decal film (http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TF-2&Category_Code=TF&Product_Count=2). You simply cut it to the shape you want, and apply it just like a kit decal- dip in water for a few minutes and slide in place. This way you only have to paint one color, and you don't have to mess with masking.

What are you building?

Thanks for the reply, The tamiya paint i was about to purchase is the X-1 gloss black, acrylic based.
I am about to start my Revell 1966 Mustang GT-350R, converting it to the gone in 60seconds 'eleanor' version, that car has always been one of my fav. It was really hard to find the GT-350R, its becoming rare in the uk, the GT-350H is more common but a lot of work is need to get the front bumper looking right with enough space for the 2nd set of head lights.

Thanks for the info. now i need to find black decal films, prob eaby :)

A newbie with an airbrush - cool! :thumbsup:

1. Put the black over the silver, not the other way round IMHO
2. Get Zero Jet Black for the stripes.

:2cents:

Do you think using alcad metallic paints for the eleanor will achieve a better result over zero paints? as the original 1:1 eleanor had a metallic shine (pewter) to it

http://www.seriouswheels.com/1960-1969/1967-Mustang-Fastback-Gone-in-60-Seconds-Eleanor-Front-1280x960.htm

http://www.seriouswheels.com/1960-1969/1967-Mustang-Fastback-Gone-in-60-Seconds-Eleanor-Side-2-1024x768.htm

Do you think using alcad metallic paints for the eleanor will achieve a better result over zero paints? as the original 1:1 eleanor had a metallic shine (pewter) to it


Alclad rubs off of lacquer based paints easily. Testors enamel or Alclad enamel black works the best. Remember, the smoother the base paint is the better the Alclad will be.

TW

Do you think using alcad metallic paints for the eleanor will achieve a better result over zero paints? as the original 1:1 eleanor had a metallic shine (pewter) to it

http://www.seriouswheels.com/1960-1969/1967-Mustang-Fastback-Gone-in-60-Seconds-Eleanor-Front-1280x960.htm

http://www.seriouswheels.com/1960-1969/1967-Mustang-Fastback-Gone-in-60-Seconds-Eleanor-Side-2-1024x768.htm
Looks to me as if Tamiya Gunmetal would be closer than any Alclad paint.

Alclads are mostly NMF and are meant to look like real metal, not decorative metallic paints.

If you can find a paint code for the color used on the Eleanor car, Hiroboy can probably mix you up the exact color (but YOU need to provide the color code)

There have been soem very good Eleanor builds here on AF. Searching the WIP and Completed sections should bring them up. Maybe there are some useful color guides in them.

Hey appreantly all tamiya X-10 (gunmetal) acrylics paints been withdrawn from the uk, so having a real hardtime finding tamiya gunmetal.

But i did manage to find the colour code for the eleanor, Paint: Pepper Grey Metallic, Dupont Fleet 44490 (body). the site also memtion the metallic black strip, but is that other brand of metallic black strip which its good and can paint on top of the zero paints?

cos using the zero paint jet black doesnt give that quality but at the same time, i dont wanna fork out the extras just for a pair of black racing strips.

will speak to hiroboy about the pepper grey metallic.

Test it on scrap, but I 'ave me doubts.

Zero paints are urethanes and are thinned by a reducer that very much resembles lacquer thinner. Tamiya bottle paints are water-based acrylics. It's my guess that the reducer in the Zero will dissolve the acrylic undercoat and make a big mess.

I think your safest bet is to use Zero for the black coat. If you're set up for urethanes anyway, why not? It's great paint that produces a harder finish than Tamiya acrylic.

Ddms

actucally, instead of tamiya XF-10gun metal, i have found tamiya XF-56 metallic grey which looks really close to the actucal eleanor colour that i want at a fraction of the cost, £1.25 compared to £5.58 or somthing.

so will be spraying the tamiya XF-56. but how do i achieve the metallic look? do i simply add metal files to it?

and i am eager to know which will look better in the end, the tamiya XF-56 or the zero paint...

It's not easy getting good results by trying to save a few Euros.

With XF 56 you are more or less putting yourself back at square one :D
It's a water based acrylic jar paint. Yes, you can put it OVER Zero paint. YES, you will need to put a clear coat over it. YES, you will need to be careful what clear you use since you would be putting it over the XF56 - I would recommend Mr Top Coat aerosol (Blue can) in that case.

Tamiya also have a TS series Metallic Black IIRC. You could also use this (straight from the can or, as I would suggest, decanted and put through your airbrush for better control).

Whatever you decide - good luck! :thumbsup:

So many options!....hmm will need to seriously think about it...weighting out the pros and cons of each paints......:confused:

i think i will experiment with the paints, ie, getting both the tamiya XF-56 and zero paints and take it from there...modelling isnt a 'cheap' hobby any more :(

will keep you guys updated! :D

You are over-complicating things in my opinion :)

Less thinking and more "doing" will bring you better results. There is no better teacher than practical experience in modelling.

BTW what were you using your airbrush for before you started modelling?

i havnt used an air brush before hence the dilemma i am facing. :cool:
used spray can before to spray paint 1:10 rc cars. :D

So why are you considering Zero paints!?!? They need an airbrush for use unless I have missed something along the way..

Oh ive got the equipments to get started :D
compressor, air brush, primer, sandpaper (400, 800 and 1500grit) plus other tools and stuff...lol

hence thats why i said modelling isnt a 'cheap hobby' :)

Well, don't forget to add a ton of thinners to that list! :lol:

taking about thinners, i am just looking online for some now, i think i am going for isopropyl alcohol 99% pure grade. (rather than the 70% lower grade)

I've got a question. For zero 2k clear, after using it can I clean my airbrush with laquer thinner or do I need something especially for 2k?

And Klutz are you sure you can use zero 2k clear over tamiya acylics.

thats what my friend recommended using, zero 2k clear..well on ebay, i 'think' u can get the same stuff but like 5L of it for £50, trying searching 2k lacquer or something =p

And Klutz are you sure you can use zero 2k clear over tamiya acylics.
I didn't say that you could.

I didn't say that you could.


I guess I read that wrong. Do you know anyway?

I've got a question. For zero 2k clear, after using it can I clean my airbrush with laquer thinner or do I need something especially for 2k?


I've tried Zero 2K over TS26 (pure white) - didn't go well. Turned it yellow in parts. Think I'd have been ok with very light coats but I'll not try it again.

The Zero thinner should clean the brush but I always keep some Badger airbrush cleaner close - shifts just about anything even when it's dry. It's extremely aggressive so be careful with it.

Any body noticed how Armour modelers get away with just about any mix of paints? Including hair spray and floor polish :smile:

if zero cant go over tamiya acrylics, can tamiya acrylics go over zero?

Any body noticed how Armour modelers get away with just about any mix of paints? Including hair spray and floor polish :smile:

That's because for armour modelers crappy looking paint is a bonus, not a problem. They're building vehicles to look like they have been through a war, not just come from a dealer showroom. It's a big difference. Since we usually want things to come out perfect, it's best to go with a 'do it right' approach, instead of the 'whatever works' approach that they can get away with.


if zero cant go over tamiya acrylics, can tamiya acrylics go over zero?

Yes, it is safe to apply Tamiya acrylics over Zero.

Acrylics cant be used over zero if you want to lacquer it with 2k lacquer of zero paint!

Zero paint is nothing more than Automotive base paint that you have lacquer and is in fact a 2k base matt paint that needs a lacquer this is called a paint system

if you want to introduce another paint system like Acrylics than you are asking for problems! Most Acrylics cant handle a 2k lacquer! you can spray acrylics over 2k but not the other way around....its all got to do with your Lacquer! 2k very aggressive! because of thinners used! so Other paints and plastic can react
Acrylics very Gentle because of the thinners used in that

Plastics cant handle 2k systems well!! that's why you need to primer you model...to prevent plastic reacting to the base color

My hint/tip is: try every step on a unused piece of plastic (inside of cowling or body parts piece of sprue!) just to see what the effects will be with your particular paints! Whats a day trying things out? against three or four days repairing paint problems or worst case scenario stripping your model

i always try things on a piece of plastic before using new paint or filler or whatever just to see how it will react,,,better safe than sorry! and you learn what works and what doesn't work

So try every step before you spray your model
Silver over black, black over silver, spray them with different kinds of lacquer

Hope this will help in understanding your paint (try things and learn...everybody has different effects!...paint can react so very different from person to person, different ways of spraying, different amount of thinners used...different kind of thinners used weather conditions etc etc...what works for me..does not have to work for you!)

would you newbies stop answering 6 year old posts?????

John