Oil Cooling Lines

Need to know what else i can use for the oil cooling lines that come out of the oil filter adaptor. Both bad,cant find any around here.Can i make them and with what.Would appreciate some replies. 94 3.8 Needed a 2ft pipe wrench to get the lower compression fitting off of the radiator ,i would say a little seized up hey.Will be checking in the morning here first thing. Can i just make a bypass right by the oil adaptor coming out and go right back in there,dont plan on towing anything but my family????

I think they arrange these coolers differently depending on region or model year. On my '93 3.8, there is no engine oil cooler: coolers on both sides of radiator are used for the transmission...mmm...I'm not sure...maybe I have a cooler on one side only...anyway....no engine oil cooler. So.....bypass is an option. I'd use copper .

My 3.8 has an oil cooler on driverside of radiator,tranny cooler on the passanger side and another tranny cooler on the front of radiator bottom driverside corner.You think copper line for the bypass??

Is it possible your's had a "towing option" installed...as I do not have the external air cooled tranny cooler either....and I'd be curious to see if they changed the transmission final ratio when that option is installed....mine revs about 1700 rpm at 60mph (in 4thTCC of course)..... so whenever I tow a trailer, I keep the tranny in 3rd (D) only, never OD; but starting witn '94 I think, they have the transmission temp sensor installed and when temp goes up, ECM disables 4th gear.
Yes, I'd use copper either for bypass line or as replacement lines to the present cooler if you need it.
Notice there have been a few cases reported here of oil cooler lines blowing inside the radiator tank, leading to coolant in the oil and oil in coolant condition....so if you really do ont need that much cooling, I'd stay away from that possibility to become an option.........

Recently in the last 3 weeks i changed valve cover,timing cover,water pump,oil pan,tranny pan,gaskets,and oil filter adaptor.I had some bad leaking going on. When i finished all those and put it all back together,took it out for a spin and noticed oil still dripping. Pulled off passenger tire and got shot in the face by that cooling line,shooting about a foot out,lol. What an ordeal,never worked on a car before this. New fluids every where.

I have the same problem - oil cooler lines are rusty and leaking. As temporary fix, I split a rubber hose, slid it over the tubing and clamped it. Ok for now... Apparently some places repair them - haven't found one yet... The tubing is about 1/2" dia..

The lines are still available from GM (no one else it seems - I tried..). Cheapest place in States was http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=214447.
($38 ea vs $54?? at GM) but $50 for shipping!!
GM in Canada is $100 ea!! I replaced em 7 yrs ago @ $50 ea. That time, the hose fittings leaked - wished I had saved the pipes!

Mine is a '94 Lumina APV (3.8) and the oil cooler is part of the towing package. Looking at the service manual (covers Transport too) the lines run out of an adaptor plate which bolts to the engine and then the oil filter fits on the adaptor plate. I am considering removing the adaptor.
You mentioned using a pipe wrench to remove fittings at transmission?? I thought these were held on by a clip (mine are)? Similar to this Blazer -

http://www.handymanlyness.com/archives/auto/repair/engine_mech/lubrication/oil_lines/99Jimmy_oil_cooler.html

The manual isn't too clear on this.
I will post the part nos. later. The lines are one piece, older models were 2 pieces each line.

Allan

PS. Seems like a good idea to eliminate the lines and avoid the possibility of antifreeze leaking into the oil. Also wondered if should do the same with the tranny lines (use external cooler). My radiator was never replaced - any leak into tranny or engine would be game over!!!

...PS. ... Also wondered if should do the same with the tranny lines (use external cooler). ..
...You make me jump into that conclusion...yes
..by mistake, my son had just bought 2 transmission coolers (e-bay) instead of one for his Caravan...so I can have one handy already! ...better safe than sorry.

RE: External Trans Cooler

I had an external trans cooler that I used double worm clamps and 3-4 inches
of hose on the external trans line. There was a warning message on zzperformance.com about being stranded when a trans line hose comes off.
That is why I used double clamps. All was fine for about three years. On a very
sub-zero evening I had a trans line slip, and fortunately a tow truck came. I was
getting very cold. I use a finned trans pan for heat dissipation only. If I use an external trans cooler again, I would use compression fittings or steel braided line with fittings. I will never forget that night....Kev

RE: External Trans Cooler

I had an external trans cooler that I used double worm clamps and 3-4 inches
of hose on the external trans line. There was a warning message on zzperformance.com about being stranded when a trans line hose comes off.
That is why I used double clamps. All was fine for about three years. On a very
sub-zero evening I had a trans line slip, and fortunately a tow truck came. I was
getting very cold. I use a finned trans pan for heat dissipation only. If I use an external trans cooler again, I would use compression fittings or steel braided line with fittings. I will never forget that night....Kev

I have an external as well. Has held up nicely with double clamps. I double check them at every oil change though.

Hey guys,Im going to make a loop outside adaptor with a hydralic hose. Should handle the pressure and the heat i hope. Anymore advise would be helpful,had a problem with my other idea,the rubber hose that was part of line didnt fit over the rigid pipe other wise i was gooing to double clamp my own loop,but as usual it wouldnt fit over the pipe. Finding that working on cars is a whole different world of its own.

Just for info, the GM p/n 's for the lines are 10226099 and 10226100. The metal tubing is about 1/2" dia. and I'm guessing has metric flared fittings on it.
My tubing is so rusted at the engine end that I will feel better replacing it or just removing the adaptor at that end. After market oil coolers ($40?) use rubber hose from engine to cooler - it looks like a tight fit tho... Hydraulic hose is a good idea if you can get fittings, I think they're metric- but maybe not..
The trans cooler lines rusted out and a trans shop just cut out the bad sections and used compression fittings to fix it. The leak covered the underside and the back glass - that's when I noticed it! Transmission survived. The power steering cooler/line looks like it could be next!

I hate to say it - but I wish I had the van sprayed with oil to prevent some of the rusting in this area- and at the front jacking points... Still wonder what is gonna finish it off - an accident, rustout or engine/transmission?? It will be a sad day for sure...

Allan

Did you make the outside loop adapter, what did you end up using, how is it working,
I have a leak in my oil cooler line as well.

I have orig radiator, how big a concern is the oil in radiator with the original design?

Did you make the outside loop adapter, what did you end up using, how is it working,
I have a leak in my oil cooler line as well.

I have orig radiator, how big a concern is the oil in radiator with the original design?

Just got off the phone with GM parts, and local dealership, the two parts are discontinued,
# 10135679, 10135675
I have a 1993 Transport 3.8 with towing package. I do not tow, just need to get the van working, is there any reason I need to keep the cooler, any downside to a bypass.
Can anyone give more detail on how they did the bypass?

Thanks,

Steve

What do you want to bypass? the external cooler or the main radiator inside loop?
IN any case, keep the external. Yes, I think the transmission cooler loop that is part of the main radiator IS an issue and I have discussed that question in another thread recently. In view of reports about that issue, I had planned (a few posts up) to bypass that section...but waited too long and I ended up with tranny oil in the coolant. It was a very small leak at that point but messy anyway and my tests to prove the leak did not show anything....but there was oil.
Now I have the aftermarket external cooler installed.
Reciprocally, the engine oil cooler loop in main rad that is part of the towing package would better be bypassed at that age too.....I do not have it...so this setup is unknown to me...and surely not required in normal operation.

I am talking about the Internal to radiator Engine oil cooler.

Looks like all I need to do is take off Part # 6 in the diagram at the link below.

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=1993&artnbr=MU01-011&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=22U&modelcode=U&makecode=P&modelseries=UA&uid=1&modelid=1147577309&capuid=1&majorgroup=01&grouptype=B