resurface performance rotors

can u? ive heard yes and no
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Well it depends on the rotor. If they are slotted of drilled then no because the brake lathe bit will just brake off everytime it hits the slot or drilled hole. Depending on how bad they are you can use a di-grinder and kinda sand down the rotor but it wont work nearly as well as a brake lathe. And ya if they are just standard smooth rotors than for sure they can be resurfaced if they are within spec of resurfacing.

dam ok yea there drilled, ok nvm

hmmmm. i had always heard that you cant have drilled or slotted/dimpled rotors resurfaced but i may have been mistaken. check out this link though. after some googling also, the general concensus seems to be that they CAN be resurfaced but its probably not a good idea

http://www.carquest.com/common/downloads/partsTechBrakeCQB%2003-05.pdf

Drilled rotors are a gimmick anyway. The best rotors are blanks.

really, i thought drilled or slotted helped with heat and reduced warping? i no it applies more to racing but still
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Rotors are a giant heat sink. With drilling of them you have now reduced the surface area for the heat to dissipate.

Slotting just eats pads.

This is something I typed up at another forum.

1. Warped Rotors:

There is only one way a rotor can warp and this is if there is uneven torque distribution across the hub. If you are experiencing pedal pulsation and have even torque distribution then your rotors have a build up of pad material. This is usually caused by improper bead in. Have the rotors turned and re-bead your brakes.

2. Big brake kits will help my car stop better:

This is usually not the case for two reasons. And most of the time your braking distance will increase. Most big brake kits are only for the front rotors. You might think that your rear rotors doing almost nothing, but you'd be wrong. The problem is that the pressure is not proportioned correctly from front to back. You need to get a kit for all four corners that is proportioned or a set with an adjustable proportioning valve. The other reason is that some kits include rotors that are meant for track use. This means that you will never be able to get them to operating temperature on the street and thus they will be ineffective.

3. Cross-drilling will help my car stop:

Cross-drilling is a marketing ploy. Cross-drilled rotors are a complete waste of money. Cross-drilling was created about 40 years ago in racing. It was created to combat out gassing. This was a problem that occurred when the pad would heat up and release a gas. This would cause the pad to float over the rotor. The drilled rotors allowed the gas to escape to the vanes and then dissipate. Fast forward to today. Out gassing was a pad problem, not a rotor problem and no modern pad should out gas. A lot of people confuse out gassing with fade or inflating flex lines. That is why you don't see any race cars using them anymore.

Now there are also problems with cross-drilled rotors.

3A. The have a tendency to crack and more so if they're actually drilled. Good cross-drilled rotors are cast that way.

3B. Unless you get bigger rotors you will increase your braking distance. Rotors are heat sinks. They are designed to convert mechanical energy into heat energy and dissipate it. Since you have removed material by drilling you have reduced how much heat the rotor can absorb. It will then transfer that heat to your pad, calipers, lines, and then fluid. Once the fluid boils you will get brake fade. Also, since you've removed material you have reduced the contact patch of the pad on the rotor, reducing it's grip.

3C. If you want to improve braking then I suggest you get slotted rotors. They will improve initial bite but they will chew up pads faster.

4. SS brake lines will improve my braking distance:

Stainless Steel flex lines will not make you car stop any faster. What they do is prevent them from inflating during braking which will cause your brake pedal to feel very mushy and can make your brake hard to modulate.

If you want a good formula for brakes for a street car then stick with some good vented blanks, SS flex lines (if your current lines are old or damaged), ATE super blue fluid, and some good pads.

my rotors r the stillen drilled ones, should i just order some vented ones from 3sx? my pads r brand new and i dont need lines. my brake distance is good just the wobble cuz its warped, am i screwed on these rotors????
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Nice write-up Poly - that's FAQ worthy I'd say. :biggrin:

Oh yeah, and I haven't installed the Brembos I got from you yet...mine are still good. Hehe And BTW, did you ever figure out what the problem with your brake system was? The bleeding/air in the lines!?!

Thanks! Maybe I'll have to go in and check out the FAQ, make sure there aren't any dead links.

Yeah, I have yet to fix it though. I think I kinked a flex line but I've been avoiding buy SS lines because the hard line that goes between the flex line and the hard lines are a PITA to get off and usually are destroyed in the process. Sadly one of them is now NS1. The other half would be contamination. I must have not cleaned the rotors well enough when I put them on.

my rotors r the stillen drilled ones, should i just order some vented ones from 3sx? my pads r brand new and i dont need lines. my brake distance is good just the wobble cuz its warped, am i screwed on these rotors????

I would get some Brembo blanks. However, if you have a first gen they will not have the rear rotors. However, the best rears you can find are from Race Shopper (http://www.raceshopper.com/best_brakes_rotors.shtml).

yea i was about to ask if there were any good blanks out there. ill look into it, ill just use the stillens when im showing or something lol, i gotta friend who has a badass lathe, maybe we can rig something to resurface em
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ok i ran into a problem, i have an na.....will those brembo blanks fit?? if not what do i get?

Lucky for you Brembo makes blanks for the N/A on all four corners. I found the best deal at Tire Rack.

tirerack.com? alrighty ill check it outs thanks everyone yall have been helpful
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I havent seen TireRacks price but I got a good deal at IPS for my Brembo blanks.

Looking at TireRack they do have good prices but limited availability.