No more GM supercharger?

I went to buy a supercharger for my '04, and every place I found one it was discontinued... any place left to get a *new* one? Maybe I'll just go with a turbo... Classicrockjunkie, I looked back but didn't find the link you gave for your preferred turbo kit, could you give me that link again please?

I have a supercharger kit in my basement un used still in the box.... ;) I could be persuaded to let it go too as a turbo is more up my alley as my shop has become vendors for Garrett turbo's and everything else I can fabricate my self...

$2,750 shipped and its yours. I paid $3k originally but the 2750 is the last time I saw them the cheapest on pace performance but they clearly show you can't get em there anymore... If your interested shoot me a PM.

But yes, they have been discontinued.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/cyklone/Miscelaneous%20Pics/BlowerKit.jpg

There are only 33 left at the GM warehouse in Lansing...back at the beginning of the month when I checked. Summit racing still shows they can get em, but want MSRP for it. $3k+

I kindda want to take you up on that... but I looked at the Garrett turbos, and now I want one of those too. I want all the horsepower I can get, but don't really want to give up reliability or durability more than I have to. I have a truck I can drive the 30 miles round trip to work geting 10mpg or less (should anything bad happen to the cavalier), but it's not 100% street legal so I don't like driving it on road. What difference do you think there is between the reliability/durability of super vs. turbo? What would you do in my position?

The supercharger comes with everything to put down 200hp on the stock motor. A little tweaking the exhaust and adding a smaller pulley, guys have turned that into 240 whp with small mods such as an AFPR, inline fuel pump and 36LB LSJ injectors, and 2.5" exhaust with a nice header. Once everything is install GM has a PCM tune for it so you don't have to worry about blowing your car up..

Turbo on the other hand.... unless you buy a Hahn kit ($3,500+) it will come with everything as well but your stuck trying to tune the car yourself. The only software out there for that is HPtuners ($650). There are a couple gauges you need to buy to monitor everything as well. A wide band air/fuel gauge is a must which is another couple hundred dollars.

Now the only real difference between the two is the supercharger is somewhat limited as what it can do. They make soo much torque since they have no boost lag but suffer from heat soak limiting their HP potential. Your limited to pretty much 275-300whp out of them. For a J-body that quite a bit of power in such a light car. Turbo on the other hand, your not limited. BUT the tuning aspect is the hardest part and if you've never dealt with tuning before, I'd suggest you stay away from doing it yourself. Blowing up your motor is a real potential.

So if I was in your case, I would be buying a blower. 8hr install time and your good to good to go with power in your hands. I bought the blower myself back in o7 for the ease of such quick and easy power. You'd be spending less with the supercharger compared to the turbo.

I think I'll go with the supercharger then. Maybe one day I'll get a second car to turbo... I really like the look of the Berettas, so maybe I'll go down south and find a perfect rust free body with a junk engine and do the whole swap.

Would you mind holding the kit for me for about a month? I can PayPal you some cash to hold it if you prefer. I wasn't really looking to buy one as I said I was, just comparing prices for when I do. I've got a part of my car and a gun still on my credit card (got a 0% introductory rate, but if it's not paid off by the end of the 6 months, I gotta pay interest for the whole time :eek7:)

I have one other interested person, and he would also like it held for a month. I will tell you the same thing as I told him. I need this gone ASAP and payment in full. I'm not arguing your integrity but I have been burned in the past with the payment plan deal. I would the like the payment in full before it leaves my possession. That way I'm not favoring one person over the other. I will also not go through paypal. I will only do a Money order or a certified check only. Their fees would be a hundred plus dollars and I cannot loose that. I am a very reputable person on j-body.org & Here and have been a very active member on both since 2004. I'm not out to scam anyone, and also have a lot of friends on the .org, here and other place. I would also provide all my contact information to further ease any fears. Shipment would go through UPS, insured and I would also provide a tracking # same day payment clears my bank account. Its all still boxed up as I have only opened the TB adaptor plate to let MD-pullies redesign one, and can me mailed ASAP. Lemme know what you think.

I won't do a money transfer because I may as well be mailing cash. I have no reason not to trust you, but there cant be any "maybe" on almost a months wages. I got burned doing that once, and it wasn't fun... wasn't small money either. I can't do the certified check because I'll have to put it on a credit card which would be 18% interest for a cash advance, so by the time it's paid off I'll have paid more in interest than if I pay the paypal fees. If the only reason you wont do paypal is the money they take, I'll gladly pay that. I don't want to short you at all, I appreciate you not jacking the price up like summitt did. Looking at the Paypal fees page (https://www.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_display-fees-outside), it appears that if I add funds to my paypal account then transfer the funds to you, there is no fee at all. Seems like they would have thought of that...

If you can take paypal if you end up with $2,750, I'll send it Monday afternoon.

Lemme call paypal on monday to make sure I won't be nailed a fee because of this statement.

"Receive payments funded by Credit Card, Debit Card or Buyer Credit 4.9% + $0.30 USD (limit of 5 transactions per 12 month period)** for domestic or U.S. transactions"

If you can put the balance in your account, then send it to me... I think that will work. If that is the case, I will take Paypal.

Sounds good. If there is a fee charged to you, then I'll pay $2900 ($2891.97 is what the price+fee+fee for paying the fee would be, but I didnt want to keep adding in the fee for the price increase for paying the fee. Would go on forever in small amounts. Let me know if you figure it would be more than that if they do charge a fee.

Ok, apparently Paypal actually had people working for them on Saturday and Sundays cause I just logged in fishing for a phone number. Found that out, sat on hold for 20 mins and this is what I got from them.

You can only add funds via a certified bank account which verified members have on paypal. I have verified personal account which is going to allow me to transfer the funds to my account when done. But since you are needing to pay via credit card there are going to be fees associated with the transaction, which is going to be a debit on my end. I don't have the business account, so I AM going to be hit with the 4.9% fee plus $.30 charge.

So if you want to paypal me the $2900 that would work just fine and if there is somehow extra cash left over after the $2,750 I'll use it in trying to expedite the kit to you. Also I have a set of used Cobalt SS LSJ 36lb injectors with 1k miles I purchased back a while ago which will max out at 40lbs unlike the ones provided in the kit. They are needed if you drop in pulley size to handle the extra boost. I was planning on dropping a 3.0" pulley on right off the bat, so they are no use to me. They stock pulley size is 3.3" (per .1" you gain/loose 1psi of boost). I'll toss them in with everything for ya.

Here are the pictures from when I received the kit making sure I had everything.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e182/ecosedan/EatonM62002.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4773/20070823image0005ac1.jpg

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/2866/20070823image0003eq1.jpg

http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/3466/20070823image0006ri4.jpg

I have only opened the TB Adapter plate package and shipped it to a friend so he could redesign some new ones, and have it back in my possession. So the kit is 100% complete and nothing was ever installed. If you want to go through with this, I will PM you my paypal address, e-mail, address and direct contact cell phone #. Once payment is received, I will transfer it to my bank account and when it clears into there usually 4-5 business days since I have a credit union. If you send it tonight/monday morning I should get it to my bank account on friday someday. I will then get to UPS friday or Saturday morning pending on when it clears and ship it right out to you. I work Saturday afternoon so if it all works out as that is planned, I will have a confirmation #, Tracking #, and will scan in the receipts and send them to you to show its been shipped. I will send all that to you Saturday evening. Being such a high price item, I want safety and piece of mind for the both of us.

:thumbsup:

Sent you a PM

Where would I get the 3" pulley and the puller/installer? I assume it's press on? I've glanced at other S/Cers, and I don't remember bolts/nuts. Are 2.x" pulleys available, and would that be going too far? I figure I may as well go as far as I can now.

Smaller pulleys can be purchased from places like...

Http://www.zzperformance.com/
http://www.smoothflowpulleys.com/

Any Cobalt SS pulley will work.

They are a press fit style, and those same sites have a puller you can purchase to get the stock one off.

Honestly I wouldn't go below anything smaller than a 2.9" pulley as that is quite a bit of boost for a stock motor. What the majority of J-body guys are doing is installing a 3.0" pulley, inline fuel pump, or a Racetronix for an F-body (plastic tank), an AFPR, Cobalt LSJ injectors, and a free flowing good exhaust and safely putting down 230-240whp.

Pulley's can go as small as you want, but there is a line where you start over revving the supercharger which happens around a 2.5" pulley. Also the smallest you can fit on without having to machine the snout down is a 2.79".

PM'd you back.

First, I want to apologize for the confusion I suffered on the phone today. I realized what you meant once we hung up and I got back to work. Not sure how effectively I communicated what was going on, but I had one helluva time figuring out a caddy that wasn't acting right, and my mind was still on that. i sortta get into a trance when I'm diagnosing things, and it wasn't figured out yet... damn modules. Been throwin' back a few tryin to forget that F***** car. That's an "in advance" appology for any incoherentness.

Anyway, I was planning to have a guy that we work with to do the SPS update for the S/C, but as it turns out he isn't open on saturdays. So... what I'm thinking is I'll install the S/C on Saturday, leaving the belt off. I'll charge the battery when ig et home and drive my truck if I go anywhere sunday. momnday I'll drive it back to work and charge the battery, then after work, I'll take it to have it updated and then install the belt after it is. That should be perfectly fine, right? Seems to me likr the only damage woul come from boost that the ECM doesn't know about/detect, right? I'm not thinging like I normally do right now, so maybe tomorrow morning I'll realize something i dont know now, but at this moment it seems solid to me...

Lol on your picture Cody, Woodstock warehouse is like 3 minutes from me I drive past it all the time its near my house :P Woodstock, Ontario

Jason-

I forgot to throw in the installation manual I printed off so you wouldn't have to... FUCK...I was in a rush friday because I had something planned with my g/f and I didn't think I had to be ready to go by 2:30 in the afternoon. I thought what she had planned was something later at night so I was running around with my head cut off trying to get this shipped to you since I said i would friday.... Here is the install .pdf file http://paceperformance.com/paceperformance/pdf/superchargermanual.pdf (http://paceperformance.com/paceperformance/pdf/superchargermanual.pdf).

Honestly - drive the car around till you have almost an empty tank before you do this since you cannot run 87 octane anymore, as long as your boosted you need to run 93 or better. After that Install everything including the belt, just DO NOT HOOK UP THE TMAP sensor whatever you do! The sensor can be installed in the manifold, just don't connect it to the engine harness. Drive it home, you'll throw a code most likely for the IAT sensor and MAP sensor, don't worry about it but also DO NOT take it above 3,000rpms. Stay out of boost and off the throttle. If you do that, you'll be fine to granny drive it home, then the same to work on Monday. Once you get it reflashed with 93 octane in the tank, feel free to beat the living piss outta that sucker! Welcome to boost my friend, its very addicting and you'll only want more! :)

Your car won't know what to do if it saw boost and the stock 24lb injectors would be dramatically insufficient. Make sure you install the Kit injectors not the green top LSJ ones i threw in the with everything. Those are for later down the road when you go to a smaller pulley size.

The manual's not a problem, I already downloaded it and read it through many times. I don't see how it takes 8 hours, but I don't want to jinx myself... Sorry for all the confusion, something as simple as an address really isn't usually this complicated for me :confused: I've been filling with premium for the last two tanks, so the regular should be long gone by next week.

I'm sure looking forward to getting this done, I'm a V8 RWD kindda guy, so the 145 hp hasn't been doing it for me :lol:. I already ordered a 2.9" pulley and the puller, so I'll be installing the LSJ injectors right away. Thanks for throwing those in for me!

I've driven boosted cars before, just never owned one. Had a guy with a 3.8 turbo grand national that supposedly ran bad under WOT. It never acted up for me, but we have a 1 hour minimum diagnostic time... lets just say that customer got every penny he paid for in that hour :evillol: It is addictive!

EDIT: Just had an idea... what would happen if I had the PCM flashed on Friday before I install the supercharger? Adaptive fuel should compensate for the difference in injectors? I can reset the adaptive fuel with the Tech-2 before I start the engine after it is installed so that doesn't cause a problem. Does the TMAP sensor have the same outputs for temp and for vacuum as the stock IAT and MAP sensors? Or should I just limp it home and back to work?

I'd limp it honestly. Other wise you'll prolly run pig rich and might stall out if you get on the throttle.

When you install the LSJ injectors, you'll need to pull the gray spacer cups up in the head roughly a 1/4". They are slightly shorter but but nothing too drastic. Some guys don't pull the gray cups up and go as is. I'd prefer no vapor leaks possible and when I test fit them into my head with the 03-05 fuel rail I found that doing that made them fit just right and sealed.

Also if your jumping right into the 2.9" pulley, I wish I would have known because I'd highly suggest snagging a Wide band Air/fuel gauge to monitor exactly what your car is doing. The GM reflash is known to run on the rich side which covers their ass but all cars act differently. The best AFR while in boost is 11.5-12.1:1 Anything less than 11.5:1 is on the rich side and above 12.1:1 is lean and the higher it gets becomes more dangerous for your motor.

I have an Innovate XD-16 Wide Band stand alone left, lemme know if your interested in that.

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/4407/20080607image0002xl6.jpg

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/4130/20080607image0010sp5.jpg

Get a set of pliers that can grip and twist from left to right and they will break their seal and then slowly pull them out towards yourself. They have a rubber O-ring at the bottom which makes the seal. Re-install them into the hole about 3/4 of the way seated. Or till they look like this...

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9444/20080607image0015cw7.jpg



Wide band kit..

http://i13.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/ag/25/6733_1.JPG

I may have to wait on the wideband kit, but how much do you want for it?

Don't worry about the wide band, I just sold it and got paid so unfortunately that is gone.

Cody, got another question for you. The box came today (you weren't kidding about the size/weight!) and I took a look at everything. You said before to stay off the gas and off the boost while limping it around, and while looking at the S/Cer I realized those may be two different things? Looks like there's a wastegate(?) of sorts with a vacuum actuator. How much throttle can I safely give it? I've got a scanguage on the car, so if there's a definite TPS% I can hold it at exactly that point, otherwise... 0-60 in 1/2 mile on flat ground? I've got a pretty steep hill to get out of town, so low TPS and low RPM don't really go together well. I can always 2nd gear it, but that's why I'd like to know if there's a % I can safely drive it at.

Second question, I know you told me, but I think I deleted that PM or overlooked it or something. With the 2.9" pulley, I need to use the green top fuel injectors, right? Just wanna be 100% sure on this.

All the info on the LSJ injectors is right above in this post. Yes you need them for the 2.9" pulley

As far as limping it... the TPS % isn't really going to matter. Just don't take the car above 3,000 rpms and leave it at that. If your installing the 2.9" pulley right off the bat, then install the LSJ injectors as well according to what I posted above. Your car will be running rich this whole time until you get the reflash, so if you do get into a little bit of boost getting up that hill it won't hurt too much, but you shouldn't have to get the throttle and rpms higher than 3,000.

Once you get the reflash, go beat the piss out of it. :0)