Question for user's of 2 part clearcoats

I have been thinking of purchasing some 2 part urethane clear. However, when I went by my local auto paint supplier to check on prices, the guy at the counter told me I may not want to apply a two part clear over lacquer basecoat. He said they have different shrinkage rates and since the lacquer would be sealed by the urethane clear, it could eventually crack.
Have any of you that use the two part urethane clear's had that problem? It seems quite a few people have used them over lacquer.

I've never had any problem with 2k clears over lacquer and I've never heard of anyone else having cracks due to shrinkage. However, I try to give the lacquer 3-5 days to sufficiently harden before applying the clear and have noticed lacquer will "shrink" down a little bit during that time. Maybe I'm just lucky?

I've been using the 2K for a while now and can report no problems or compatibility issues yet........

I asked the same question at my automotive paint store and I was told, no problem putting the Urethane ontop of the laquer, but don't do it the other way around.

I've got a strange reaction with my xanavi skyline... body was cleared with ts 13 to give the decals a smooth surface to attach on. Final clear was with 2k and this was the result:

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010108.JPG

greetz

That happened to me a few times. My cause was 2 different things. 1, decals weren't dry enough and 2, after I clear coated, I put the body in a food dehydrator to dry it quicker and that happened. Probably more along the lines of still too much moisture on the decals. I waited around 24 hours and it wasn't long enough.

That happened to me a few times. My cause was 2 different things. 1, decals weren't dry enough and 2, after I clear coated, I put the body in a food dehydrator to dry it quicker and that happened. Probably more along the lines of still too much moisture on the decals. I waited around 24 hours and it wasn't long enough.

I asked hiroboy for reasons for this and he said that the ts 13 wasnt cured enough... It has cured for two days... So when i now want to lay down a smooth surface for the decals i dont use laquer paints but 2k also... And after decals final clear with 2K.

I always try and keep to the same paints and lacquers from the same range. They are designed to work together and bring out the best in each other. Using lots of different paints and clears can be a recipe for disaster. You can end up with bad reactions and compatibility issues....

I've got a strange reaction with my xanavi skyline... body was cleared with ts 13 to give the decals a smooth surface to attach on. Final clear was with 2k and this was the result:

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/11363/P1010108.JPG

greetz

I had the same problem but more severe when I cleared my nismo gtr and nismo z. I think my problem was over thinning the 2k clear. The gtr had zero paint base coat/decal then 2k clear 1 wk after decalling, the z had tamiya ts paint/ts13/decals then 2k clear 6 mos after decalling. I've used 2k clear successfully in the past over ts paint, mr. color clear, tamiya acrylic paint, various decals without any problems. Both cars were cleared at the same time using the same mix of 2k.

I think I will go ahead and give it a try then. Seems like for the most part it works just fine over lacquer.
Thanks for the input guys!