Meth Kit Install

Ok well I've been DYING to get this meth in and despite it still being cold and rainy I said F it I'm going to at least start this today.

|Before I begin with the install I want to mention a few things.

First I was determined to install both the pump and the Tank in the trunk because It would support the trunk floor which has been sagging since I have permanently removed the spare tire.

Second I must install the hose throughout the interior because there is no way that hose would survive outside in a canadian winter on a DD period no matter what. So through the car it is. |(here's hoping I have enough line)

Third I want it to be as inconspicuous as possible (I don't mind the nozzle going into the UICP showing) but don't want lines visible throughout the car or the pump visible etc.

OK now to the install today I only worked on it for a maximum of 2 hours but I made some progress. Unfourtunately the hardest part is still to come which is getting the hose and power cable through the firewall which I remember from my fuel pump rewire is a bitch however I did follow my fuel pump rewire lines ;)


Here is what the kit looked like out of the box in case you have forgotten

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth003-1.jpg

First thing I did was cut to size and install a "mounting base" which is really just a piece of plywood which I screwed down to the existing screw hole where the tire gets held on. The supports held the edges up very nicely.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth004.jpg

Next was fasten the pump to the base (simple) but make sure you know which way the pump is flowing its marked with arrows tank-->Pump---> nozzle.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth005.jpg

I used the screw on the bottom right of that picture as a ground source

Next was what I anticipated to be one of the more difficult tasks was to get the hose and power source wires through the trunk to under the backseat (where the fuel pump is)

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth006.jpg

here is what the unattached hose and wires look like at this point (i tied the 12v wire around the harder hose so that they would "thread" through easily together

This is the hole(s) which I went through to get it behind the back of the back seat.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth007.jpg

Now the wires run horizontally behind the back seat until they come out the side near the plastic interior panels (so that no one can sit on them and squish them)

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth008.jpg

It took a little while to find them but after that it was alright

Next was me running the hose along the kick panel on the floor and under neath the carpet so that there would be no pressure on it and up to the firewall under the passenger side leg room area.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth009.jpg

At this point darkness had fallen and it was getting pretty frosty out and my camera was dying so I decided that this would be about where I quit for the day. I moved the car into the garage and took out the battery and snapped one more shot where I am going to be pulling both the 12v and the hose through the firewall towards the uicp.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth010.jpg

The red wire is the positive which runs to the fuel pump which i did a while ago hopefully i can use the same hole or at least same area.



LIst of jobs left to do

Find a tank that is the correct dimensions to mount in the back that it tall enough to support the trunk bottom (and hopefully has a cap on the top)

tap tank and run hose from tank to pump (easy)

Buy additional 12v wire and solder it to existing wire to extend it and run it and hose through firewall (hard)

drill and tap uicp for nozzle (don't know if this is gonna be hard or what)? any clues or tips?

run pressure switch off existing vacuum/boost source (easy)

solder up relay and attach to battery (easy)

pray there is enough hose left to make it (its getting kinda tight)

I am really interested in this install. Keep the pictures coming.

|OK Lunch break time I figured I'd update

First thing I had to do was take off my uicp and get it ready to be tapped for the nozzle.

The ICP came off fairly well and it was marked for where I wanted to tap it and then drilling began.
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth013.jpg

yes its a genuine greddy rs


I started by making a pilot hole because the ultimate goal was 11/32 and thats quite the drill bit going through metal.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth014.jpg

Then it was time to go with the big dog

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth015.jpg

Next was installing the nozzle (kinda difficult cause my hole was a fraction too tight) and cleaning the pipe of the metal fragments.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth016.jpg

Here is a picture of the nozzle in the pipe its on there pretty tight I don't think any boost will be escaping from the hole

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth017.jpg

Next was running the lines through the firewall I was expecting this to be a huge bitch but my buddy came by and helped me out and it went fairly smoothly |(here's praying I have enough slack its going to be really tight when the battery is back in blocking the direct route to the nozzle.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth018.jpg

|Then I put the IC pipe back on and test fit up the hose to see if it would make it. It does but it doesn't have a lot of slack which may mean problems when the battery is in.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth019.jpg

|I also started wiring the relay up and got the boost source atttached to the pressure switch. (no pics yet)

Looks nice. I'm going to move this to Tech Articles section if you don't mind Stevie, since this is a write up.

Don't mind at all its really where it should be.

Ok Got the vaccum source (pressure switch) hooked in near my boost controller (they are now best friends) and the relay is all hooked up.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth021.jpg

Then I installed a temp tank just to see if the pump would run and it did! (don't know if it will activate properly with boost but it worked when I by passed the relay)

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth020.jpg

Then I did just a temp "bracket" to hold the meth bottle down it looks like ass but it works really well so i dunno I guess.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth024.jpg

Next was install the check valve its basically a one way valve that keeps the lines filled but also prevents boost from pushing back the other way.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth023.jpg

Got the relay back together and all wired up (it is now on the firewall)

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth022.jpg

mounted the relay on the firewall and put the battery back in
(still need to tidy up those wires!)
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth026.jpg

Ran the hose to the check valve It had |JUST enough slack I mean it worked out perfectly But there is no room for error I'll tell you

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth027.jpg

Interior panels back on! Where'd the hose and power lines go?
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth025.jpg

New tank that holds more (1.4 gallons) 5L works much better

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth030.jpg

Engine side
For the 12v ignition source I used the red wire on the egr valve works like a charm. I also put some sealant around the 90 degree elbow just in case that some boost may try to escape.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/meth029.jpg

and now I am ready to load my tune back on and start experimenting here's hoping that everything will be working properly.


Some gains

Knock was reduced, and horsepower was increased....

by an average 30 whp without a tune right out of the box!

I put these in picture form so that people without link could see them

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/beforemeth.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/aftermeth.jpg

So (I don't know too much about these) it sprays automatically when boosting?


PS: Moved

you set the pressure switch to a certain psi normally around 1/3-1/2 your boost max which it kicks in at. When the pressure switch (mounted beside the boost controller) senses the threshold then it kicks on the pump. Its really only needed when your boost is getting up there no need to waste your meth on your daily driving when you hit 5 psi going up a small hill etc.

Im assuming you have tuned the car already. Did you have to pull any fuel out to account for the meth? Im ordering my kit soon and Im trying to figure out if I need bigger injectors. I maxed these at 23psi but hoping to get the boost up to 26-27psi on the dyno. With leaning it out some and injecting all that meth do you think its possible?

Looks good. I did mine a little differently, but pretty much the same installation. I mounted my pump under the spare tire and just tapped into the stock washer bottle. I'm running a 66% MeOH to 33% Water mix.


http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/6730/0510081958a.jpg



I was able to lean out my AFR to just about 11.8:1 with the addition of the MeOH. I'm still on the stock SMIC so it eliminated any knock associated with heat soak. I can make back to back pulls with no problems now, whereas I used to heat soak the intercooler after about 2 runs.

With leaning it out some and injecting all that meth do you think its possible?

You won't need additional fuel because of the MeOH, only more fuel to compensate for the increase in airflow associated with the boost pressure increase. If you don't have DSMLink, you can always look at the airflow on your logger and cross reference that to the mathematical airflow limitation of your injectors.

You won't need additional fuel because of the MeOH, only more fuel to compensate for the increase in airflow associated with the boost pressure increase. If you don't have DSMLink, you can always look at the airflow on your logger and cross reference that to the mathematical airflow limitation of your injectors.

420a motor running megasquirt fuel and spark. No link here. That doesn't really answer my question. Meth will act as a fuel in the combustion process so if you just add water/meth to the same tune you will run rich because of the extra 'fuel' being injected. Now the more meth you add the more fuel needs to be pulled from the injectors to maintain the same AFR. Since meth also increased octane we can run leaner than on pump gas. So I my 650cc injectors were at 90% IDC at 23.5psi. I should be able to bump the boost up a little more before maxing the injectors with water/meth right?

yes you can. Especially since the meth doesn't flow through the injectors. But meth doesn't accomodate as much as fuel does so you can't substitute a 1:1 ratio.

ok cool. Im going to be ordering a kit soon. My car is starting to really hate this heat. At 90+* it gets really slow at full boost. Its got to be the air temps pulling tons of timing.

That doesn't really answer my question. Meth will act as a fuel in the combustion process so if you just add water/meth to the same tune you will run rich because of the extra 'fuel' being injected.

Meth isn't injected at a high enough rate to be much of a fuel and effect AFR like you are thinking it will. Assuming max RPM of 7k and 571 CFM @ 26psi, you'll need a recommended nozzle size of 5.66 gallons. Keep in mind that most guys run a 50% / 50% mix, so only 2.83 gph of that is going to be Meth.

We'll get into this a little more later, but just keep in the back of your mind that the AFR of Meth is only 6.5:1. Anyway, your 2.83 gph of Meth is going to end up injecting an additional 178cc of fuel. Not much when you are looking at 4 x 650cc injectors at 90% IDC. Actually, it turns out to be 7.6% of the total fuel ingested.

Now, assuming you are tuning for an AFR of 11:1 and you start adding 7.6% Meth. That's going to skew your AFR from the 11:1, down to only 10.67:1. So you are correct, it's going to make a little bit of difference, but not much.


Since meth also increased octane we can run leaner than on pump gas. So I my 650cc injectors were at 90% IDC at 23.5psi. I should be able to bump the boost up a little more before maxing the injectors with water/meth right?

Meth has an octane value of 118 compared to 93 octane pump gas. Consider that you're adding only 7.6% meth, that's going increase your octane value to 94.9. Once again, not a big difference. The main reason you can lean out your AFR is the cooling effect on the intake charge.

But ultimately, you'll be able to support a little more airflow and maintain the same IDC, but it's not going to be a huge amount.

Great response, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks

Ok sorry right off the bat if this is a silly question, but I gotta ask.

Looking at how you taped into the i/c pipe right near the intake mani, I was wondering, what would happen if, you could somehow run nitrous AND this kit through the same hole/tap...like would mizing nitrous with this stuff hurt anything? can they be mixed before ever entering the intake stream? :biggrin:

Nice write up, I have the exact same kit. I also added a pre-turbo nozzle. But I did not feel or log any real big improvement. This might be because my turbo isn't being maxed out enough to cool it down? I'm not sure, but I plan to move it to the throttle body elbow so I will be spraying 2 nozzles at the throttle body.

And steviek it looks like you have the older kit when they supplied 3 nozzles. Which is the same as mine. Do you know what sizes they were? Were they m3, m7, and m10?

I know it should say it on the nozzles but mine are kind of scratched up.

Ok sorry right off the bat if this is a silly question, but I gotta ask.

Looking at how you taped into the i/c pipe right near the intake mani, I was wondering, what would happen if, you could somehow run nitrous AND this kit through the same hole/tap...like would mizing nitrous with this stuff hurt anything? can they be mixed before ever entering the intake stream? :biggrin:


No that will not work. Nitrous is injected at a much high pressure than meth is. You also would want to tap into each intake runner for your nitrous nozzels to make sure that you are distributing it evenly to each cylinder

No that will not work. Nitrous is injected at a much high pressure than meth is. You also would want to tap into each intake runner for your nitrous nozzels to make sure that you are distributing it evenly to each cylinder

that would be aaaa dry shot? And not doing that, would just be a bad way of using nitrous?(like taped into the i/c pipe like ive seen some ppl do) how do you put a nozzle on each intake runner? i wonder if i put a portfueler kit on mygsx(when the time comes) and run nitrous through that...would that be safe?

Nice write up, I have the exact same kit. I also added a pre-turbo nozzle. But I did not feel or log any real big improvement. This might be because my turbo isn't being maxed out enough to cool it down? I'm not sure, but I plan to move it to the throttle body elbow so I will be spraying 2 nozzles at the throttle body.

And steviek it looks like you have the older kit when they supplied 3 nozzles. Which is the same as mine. Do you know what sizes they were? Were they m3, m7, and m10?

I know it should say it on the nozzles but mine are kind of scratched up.

My kit came with the M10 M12 nad M14 nozzles

Update on this thread

Recently I removed the pressure switch because it does not work like it should. I had a feeling the meth wasn't working when I needed it properly. SO I wired an LED into the power source on the pump so it would read when my pump turns on. The pressure switch was coming on way too late. SO then I switched to so that the ecu now controls the pump via the nitrous controls on link. It works much better. Also now I don't have to worry about the meth spraying in between shifts.

that would be aaaa dry shot? And not doing that, would just be a bad way of using nitrous?(like taped into the i/c pipe like ive seen some ppl do) how do you put a nozzle on each intake runner? i wonder if i put a portfueler kit on mygsx(when the time comes) and run nitrous through that...would that be safe?

A 'dry' shot is when you just inject nitrous. A 'wet' shot is when you inject fuel along with the nitrous. To put nozzels in the intake manifold runners just drill and tap holes like you would on the intercooler pipe. Using portfueler spacer would work but would just be expensive. And I dont even know if they make portfueler for the 4g63 head. A 420a one will not work



Also as some of you know I just recently installed meth on my car. I have had a time getting MS to control it, for some reason the outputs are not working like they should. Anyways I really wanted to test it out so had my roomate sit in the back and jump the relay once I hit boost to log some temps. I noticed about a 25* decrease in temps when meth cut on. The temps actually dropped when it first cut on to ambient and then slowly increased. Intercooler started getting heatsoaked after a few runs but it still make a big differnence. Im running a M10 nozzel about 1.5ft in front of my IAT sensor.

so, in theory, a portfueler could double as a good way to inject nitrous...or at least, possibly a wet shot...

im sorry i know this is way off topic, but im just trying to get this figured out..=)

im wondering if theres a way for me to run a wet shot thorugh my portfueler...like how would i mix the nitrous and fuel b4 it gets shot into the engine...and is this a safe place to shoot the nitrous? dont they make special fuel injecotrs that double as nitrous nozzles or somehting...

Lets keep this thread on topic. PM sent to boostjunkie to answer his question.

Update on this thread

Recently I removed the pressure switch because it does not work like it should. I had a feeling the meth wasn't working when I needed it properly. SO I wired an LED into the power source on the pump so it would read when my pump turns on. The pressure switch was coming on way too late. SO then I switched to so that the ecu now controls the pump via the nitrous controls on link. It works much better. Also now I don't have to worry about the meth spraying in between shifts.

I was really considering to have link control mine as well. But the only problem I see is with v2 of link nitrous control turns off at 7950rpm. And once I get my 6 bolt in I plan on shifting around 8000 to 8500rpm. And I don't want the meth cutting out if I go over 8k.

you can change when the meth cuts out i believe

SO then I switched to so that the ecu now controls the pump via the nitrous controls on link. It works much better. Also now I don't have to worry about the meth spraying in between shifts.

Can you elaborate on how you did that?

I talked to Dave & Tom when I was down visiting their shop and inquired about using the switchable map feature in v3 as a safety device. Right now I'm running a clogged nozzle detector in case I run out mid-pull, but you still have to worry about reaction time.

Now that there are additional inputs at the ECU, I was thinking of wiring the clogged nozzle detector to the ECU and have ECMLink choose the appropriate map depending on weather or not the MeOH was active. Although we didn't have a chance to get into the details, they said it was possible.

That way if you were to run out of MeOH mid pull, the ECU would automatically jump fuel / timing maps to compensate. No more worrying about running out. I just haven't had time to explore it further.

Well I have v2. And the nitrous controls basically just ground pin 3 on the ecu. SO instead of the pressure switch grounding the relay I used the ecu. The nitrous controls let you pick what rpm and throttle posistion you want it to activate on and just hit enable nitrous controls and remove the dam FPS solenoid from the regulator and you're done.