2000 Grand Am SE
Jonota
03-10-2009, 01:30 AM
Car is 2.4 TC w/ Auto transmission. Got it with a bad miss and multiple other minor problems. Scan with HPTuners showed a Cyl 3 misfire and random misfire trouble codes.
Pulled ignition/spark plugs to find #3 plug missing inner electrode. Replaced spark plugs (questionable on gap, have seen .030, .050, and .060), plug boots/covers, test ignition module, ohm'd coils, swapped coil housing with new (and took new one back). Performed carb cleaner intake leak check, no change to idle. Haven't messed with fuel yet. I'm trying to not replace any more parts until I'm a little more sure. Hoping to find someone in the local area that I can just do a straight ignition swap to make sure mine is actually good.
(Sorry for the book). Based on my readings, this is my general path forward:
-compression testing (although I think it's fine)
-fuel injector ohming
-pull fuel rail and verify flow
-hand-over-hand ignition and fuel injector wiring for crack/breaks/etc
Hoping someone has some idea I haven't heard about yet that may be a little easier. The car will still idle by itself, run, drive, etc. At around 3k rpm it has some "rattle" sounds to the top end, sound like lifter/upper valvetrain noise to me, and oil looks like it could use a change. No "metal" smell to the oil, coolant looks good. Car starts right up first time. Also noticing that the Trac Off light stays on. When I clear it with HPtuners it stays off until I shut the car off again, then it comes back on. Also getting a lot of random non-engine errors through HPTuners (although not sure if that's not Vista hating on me). Ideas anyone?
Jonota
ps. Became more important to fix this yesterday when I discovered I can't drive my Vette until I get more tires on it (Saturday).
Pulled ignition/spark plugs to find #3 plug missing inner electrode. Replaced spark plugs (questionable on gap, have seen .030, .050, and .060), plug boots/covers, test ignition module, ohm'd coils, swapped coil housing with new (and took new one back). Performed carb cleaner intake leak check, no change to idle. Haven't messed with fuel yet. I'm trying to not replace any more parts until I'm a little more sure. Hoping to find someone in the local area that I can just do a straight ignition swap to make sure mine is actually good.
(Sorry for the book). Based on my readings, this is my general path forward:
-compression testing (although I think it's fine)
-fuel injector ohming
-pull fuel rail and verify flow
-hand-over-hand ignition and fuel injector wiring for crack/breaks/etc
Hoping someone has some idea I haven't heard about yet that may be a little easier. The car will still idle by itself, run, drive, etc. At around 3k rpm it has some "rattle" sounds to the top end, sound like lifter/upper valvetrain noise to me, and oil looks like it could use a change. No "metal" smell to the oil, coolant looks good. Car starts right up first time. Also noticing that the Trac Off light stays on. When I clear it with HPtuners it stays off until I shut the car off again, then it comes back on. Also getting a lot of random non-engine errors through HPTuners (although not sure if that's not Vista hating on me). Ideas anyone?
Jonota
ps. Became more important to fix this yesterday when I discovered I can't drive my Vette until I get more tires on it (Saturday).
3100
03-10-2009, 01:16 PM
yes, you said it "-fuel injector ohming
-pull fuel rail and verify flow
-hand-over-hand ignition and fuel injector wiring for crack/breaks/etc"
one of these 3 tests will definitely pinpoint to bad injector#3
on V6 #3 injectors go first (hottest location)
on i4 2 and 3 are the hottest locations
-pull fuel rail and verify flow
-hand-over-hand ignition and fuel injector wiring for crack/breaks/etc"
one of these 3 tests will definitely pinpoint to bad injector#3
on V6 #3 injectors go first (hottest location)
on i4 2 and 3 are the hottest locations
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