2000 GMC sonoma surging at idle and stop signs p1133+1153
southpole9347
03-09-2009, 11:22 PM
ok all i did an intake gasket on my 2000 sonoma 4.3.. needless to say it ran awesome before i did the gaskets.. so i get it all together and drop the distrubitor in 180 off take it out drop it back in and ran like shit for about 30 seconds so i reved the hell out of it and it became smooth... thinkin it had coolant and what not in the combustion chamber from doin the gasket.. well anyway it had a slight misfire than idled out.. but i shut it off and start it back up and it surges than idles out than maybe a misfire once in a while so i thought i was a tooth off well i read up on it and if the dist is in wrong it throws a code well no code for the dist being in wrong instead i get a p1133 and p1153 which is ho2s circuit... red up on that and it says snorkal leak vacuum leak could be a problem and i cant find a vaccum leak and snorkals all good.. dont think the 02 sensors would cause it to run rough once in a while..
MT-2500
03-11-2009, 09:35 AM
ok all i did an intake gasket on my 2000 sonoma 4.3.. needless to say it ran awesome before i did the gaskets.. so i get it all together and drop the distrubitor in 180 off take it out drop it back in and ran like shit for about 30 seconds so i reved the hell out of it and it became smooth... thinkin it had coolant and what not in the combustion chamber from doin the gasket.. well anyway it had a slight misfire than idled out.. but i shut it off and start it back up and it surges than idles out than maybe a misfire once in a while so i thought i was a tooth off well i read up on it and if the dist is in wrong it throws a code well no code for the dist being in wrong instead i get a p1133 and p1153 which is ho2s circuit... red up on that and it says snorkal leak vacuum leak could be a problem and i cant find a vaccum leak and snorkals all good.. dont think the 02 sensors would cause it to run rough once in a while..
Your codes are for a 02 sensor heater problem.
I would get it on a good engine capable scanner and read out all data and codes.
On dist setting check camshaft retard settingreading in scanner data.
Also run a good full fuel pressure test.
Post back fuel pressure readings and any codes from a good scanner.
Your codes are for a 02 sensor heater problem.
I would get it on a good engine capable scanner and read out all data and codes.
On dist setting check camshaft retard settingreading in scanner data.
Also run a good full fuel pressure test.
Post back fuel pressure readings and any codes from a good scanner.
southpole9347
03-13-2009, 10:31 PM
ok so i put the computer on it and i have codes p0175 p1133 p1153 u1041 u1072. 0175 is rich banks. 1133 and 1153 is o2 senor circuit. cam retard is negative 4 degrees. hooked the fuel press gauge to it and it bounces between 80 and 90 which is to high so i thought the pressure regulator was bad. i spent $60 on a new one put it together runs the same. please help. thank you.
MT-2500
03-14-2009, 08:12 AM
ok so i put the computer on it and i have codes p0175 p1133 p1153 u1041 u1072. 0175 is rich banks. 1133 and 1153 is o2 senor circuit. cam retard is negative 4 degrees. hooked the fuel press gauge to it and it bounces between 80 and 90 which is to high so i thought the pressure regulator was bad. i spent $60 on a new one put it together runs the same. please help. thank you.
Have you rechecked the fuel pressure after reg replace?
You need 60/66 lbs of fuel pressure.
Clear codes and post back what pops back on.
Have you rechecked the fuel pressure after reg replace?
You need 60/66 lbs of fuel pressure.
Clear codes and post back what pops back on.
old_master
03-14-2009, 11:20 AM
If fuel pressure is 80psi to 90psi with the ignition on, engine off, and the fuel pump running, the 5/16" fuel return line is restricted somewhere between the regulator and the fuel pump module. After you repair the restriction, check the fuel pressure regulator again. If it's subjected to anything above 75psi, permanent damage will most likely occur.
southpole9347
03-15-2009, 12:09 AM
rechecked fuel press after i put the reg on still 80-100.. so today i thought the line was restricted so i took it off where the plastic line connects to the steel line and put it in a bucket.. squirts out at probably 100lbs haha.. anyways i rechecked timing that all seems good.. firing order is right.. had a buddy come with the modis checked every injector none leak.. still have the same codes.. ive called every tech i no and all im gettin is restricted return line regulator or timing.. so i once again checked timing because i had a friend say what if the chain jumped a tooth somehow.. took the belt off and the motors tight on chain.. im stumped and about to just start throwin parts at it because i work in a bone yard anyway..
MT-2500
03-15-2009, 11:53 AM
rechecked fuel press after i put the reg on still 80-100.. so today i thought the line was restricted so i took it off where the plastic line connects to the steel line and put it in a bucket.. squirts out at probably 100lbs haha.. anyways i rechecked timing that all seems good.. firing order is right.. had a buddy come with the modis checked every injector none leak.. still have the same codes.. ive called every tech i no and all im gettin is restricted return line regulator or timing.. so i once again checked timing because i had a friend say what if the chain jumped a tooth somehow.. took the belt off and the motors tight on chain.. im stumped and about to just start throwin parts at it because i work in a bone yard anyway..
Timing has nothing to do with fuel pressure.
As Old master said restricted fuel return line or bad fuel pressure reg.
If the return line is open try another fuel pressure reg.
Also make sure you gauge is right.
Try it on another blazer or truck.
Good Luck
Timing has nothing to do with fuel pressure.
As Old master said restricted fuel return line or bad fuel pressure reg.
If the return line is open try another fuel pressure reg.
Also make sure you gauge is right.
Try it on another blazer or truck.
Good Luck
southpole9347
03-15-2009, 01:58 PM
how does timing have nothin to do with fuel press? if timings off the comp is going to try to dump as much fuel as it can.. right? and im not gonna put another fuel press reg in it at 60 bucks if the first one didnt fix it than its obviously not the problem.. also my truck ran fine before i did the intakes and i replaced the fuel press reg so the old one was good and the new one is new and does the same problem.. so it has to be somethin else.. could the whole spider injection be bad? minus the injecotrs cuz i tested the injectors individually..
old_master
03-15-2009, 02:34 PM
Fuel pressure is tested with the engine off and has nothing to do with timing or compression. Fuel pressure must be 60psi to 66psi, key on, engine off, fuel pump running. If pressure is above spec, there is a restriction in the return line. This includes the regulator and the line that runs to the fuel pump module, and the module itself... PERIOD!
The service port for testing the fuel pressure is in a 3/8" steel line at the rear of the intake manifold, next to the distributor. Right next to the service port is a smaller (5/16") steel line. That is the return line. It runs directly to the fuel pump module in the fuel tank. The fitting on the fuel pump module directs the fuel through one of the spring loaded steel tubes into the well that the fuel pump motor mounts in, (this is what cools the fuel pump). Disconnect the return fuel line at the intake manifold. If you blow into the return line, there should be VERY little restriction. If you remove the fuel filler cap, you should be able to hear it blowing bubbles in the tank. If the line is clear, the fuel pressure regulator is the problem.
The service port for testing the fuel pressure is in a 3/8" steel line at the rear of the intake manifold, next to the distributor. Right next to the service port is a smaller (5/16") steel line. That is the return line. It runs directly to the fuel pump module in the fuel tank. The fitting on the fuel pump module directs the fuel through one of the spring loaded steel tubes into the well that the fuel pump motor mounts in, (this is what cools the fuel pump). Disconnect the return fuel line at the intake manifold. If you blow into the return line, there should be VERY little restriction. If you remove the fuel filler cap, you should be able to hear it blowing bubbles in the tank. If the line is clear, the fuel pressure regulator is the problem.
southpole9347
03-15-2009, 04:55 PM
ok well with the vehicle off its exactly 60psi running it fluctuates between 80-100 once again
southpole9347
03-16-2009, 10:58 PM
still no ideas? besides the ones that have ben said cuz i have tried all that..
southpole9347
05-27-2009, 08:41 PM
ok everyone back again i had codes 1133 1153 0175 0102 replaced upper plenum and spider injectors runs the same now i have codes 0302 0108 1106 1133 1153.. i think the map code is because it runs so bad theres no vacum.. i got 60lbs koeo but it doesnt hold for 10 mins like all data says any info? has anyone ever even hurd of somethin like what my trucks ben doin for the last 3 months
old_master
05-27-2009, 08:49 PM
P0302 is a misfire on cylinder #2, front cylinder on passenger side. Fuel pressure: Key on, engine off and cold, fuel pump running, pressure must be 60psi to 66psi. Pressure must remain above 55psi for 3 to 5 minutes. What readings are you getting?
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