Cannot find Eng Air bleed!
danielsatur
03-09-2009, 01:15 PM
Near Engine crossover pipe!
Changed Thermostat,and cannot get coolant flowing threw heater air bleed!
The Motor will run @ Normal Temp, but coolant isn't flowing threw Heater Core.
1) Rolled Aux coolant pump Relay/fuse ''No Help''
NO volts to DCCV = Closed or no coolant flowing threw heater core.
Suspect: Dual control solenoid seized or a BAD HVAC control module!
MCGIVER
Changed Thermostat,and cannot get coolant flowing threw heater air bleed!
The Motor will run @ Normal Temp, but coolant isn't flowing threw Heater Core.
1) Rolled Aux coolant pump Relay/fuse ''No Help''
NO volts to DCCV = Closed or no coolant flowing threw heater core.
Suspect: Dual control solenoid seized or a BAD HVAC control module!
MCGIVER
shorod
03-09-2009, 05:52 PM
Is this the reason you changed the thermostat, or did the problem occur following the thermostat change?
If you have 0vdc to both sides of the DCCV and there is no coolant flow, that does seem to indicate a stuck DCCV.
-Rod
If you have 0vdc to both sides of the DCCV and there is no coolant flow, that does seem to indicate a stuck DCCV.
-Rod
danielsatur
03-09-2009, 06:01 PM
True - No-Heat
We wanted to attack Thermostat 1st,because of Age + Mileage.
I also really didn't want to change a DCCV,because winter is over in NC. 80 degress
The Air-cond works Great!
Thanks: Rod
We wanted to attack Thermostat 1st,because of Age + Mileage.
I also really didn't want to change a DCCV,because winter is over in NC. 80 degress
The Air-cond works Great!
Thanks: Rod
danielsatur
03-10-2009, 11:27 AM
Maybe he should Sell car car to someone further South!
DCCV $275 / HVAC control = $800
Plus service!
MCGIVER
DCCV $275 / HVAC control = $800
Plus service!
MCGIVER
shorod
03-10-2009, 12:43 PM
If you find the DCCV is working but not getting a signal to regulate the coolant flow properly, before condemning the DATC control unit, check the readings of the various temp sensors. I went down this route on my wife's 2002. My scan tool showed one sensor not changing, I didn't trust my scan tool [dumb of me] since I couldn't find any posts on the Internet suggesting the sensors fail and instead swapped the DATC with a used one off of eBay. Had the same results with the new(used) DATC so I changed the sensor for $21 from the dealer. Everything has been working fine since, and now a couple of others have found bad sensors. There are a couple of threads on this forum related to the sensors (now).
-Rod
-Rod
samandgreg
03-13-2009, 05:12 PM
Maybe he should Sell car car to someone further South!
DCCV $275 / HVAC control = $800
Plus service!
MCGIVER
I think these would be FWIW items.
I purchased a new DCCV from a friend in the parts department at a Ford dealership - $162.50
A control unit with the same part number as the old unit on ebay - $29.99 plus shipping.
DCCV $275 / HVAC control = $800
Plus service!
MCGIVER
I think these would be FWIW items.
I purchased a new DCCV from a friend in the parts department at a Ford dealership - $162.50
A control unit with the same part number as the old unit on ebay - $29.99 plus shipping.
danielsatur
03-15-2009, 07:52 AM
I'am going to Make a new DCCV from Home Depot!
Maybe like a bypass,or just remove and put an on/off valve.
This way,we can Turn On/off or Winter/Summer manually.
The car is 10years old,and who cares if the passenger has hot flashes.
MCGIVER
Maybe like a bypass,or just remove and put an on/off valve.
This way,we can Turn On/off or Winter/Summer manually.
The car is 10years old,and who cares if the passenger has hot flashes.
MCGIVER
samandgreg
03-16-2009, 09:01 AM
I'am going to Make a new DCCV from Home Depot!
Maybe like a bypass,or just remove and put an on/off valve.
This way,we can Turn On/off or Winter/Summer manually.
The car is 10years old,and who cares if the passenger has hot flashes.
MCGIVER
The DCCV is used to control the temperature. When it goes full-open in our 2002, the output from the heater vents is ~ 140 deg. From personal experience, I can tell you that is too warm no matter what the outside air temperature is.
Maybe like a bypass,or just remove and put an on/off valve.
This way,we can Turn On/off or Winter/Summer manually.
The car is 10years old,and who cares if the passenger has hot flashes.
MCGIVER
The DCCV is used to control the temperature. When it goes full-open in our 2002, the output from the heater vents is ~ 140 deg. From personal experience, I can tell you that is too warm no matter what the outside air temperature is.
tkswan
04-01-2009, 01:50 PM
Near Engine crossover pipe!
Changed Thermostat,and cannot get coolant flowing threw heater air bleed!
The Motor will run @ Normal Temp, but coolant isn't flowing threw Heater Core.
1) Rolled Aux coolant pump Relay/fuse ''No Help''
NO volts to DCCV = Closed or no coolant flowing threw heater core.
Suspect: Dual control solenoid seized or a BAD HVAC control module!
MCGIVER
I created an earlier post about the heat turning to cold when the RPM's are at idle. Rod said I had some air trapped because of my thermostat changes. So I went to the bleed procedure found in this forum. The procedure says to fill the system, close the caps, open the heater air bleed, start the car and let it idle until the heater air bleed has a steady flow of fluid. I waited about 40 minutes for the fluid to flow steady and it never happened.
So I called the dealer and explained. They told me that the procedure is wrong, and they weren't surprised because they hear about this incorrectness. he went on to explain that: "To bleed the air from the system you need to modify the step that says to let the engine idle and wait for a steady flow of fluid. Instead it should read:
"Let the engine idle to operating temperatures, heater bleed open. Once the engine reaches operating temperatures, rev the engine to 2000 RPMS for about 45 seconds. As you release the accelerator the heater bleed should release a steady flow of fluid while the RPM's decrease back to idle". repeat until the flow is steady.
He also mentioned that bleeding the air using this procedure is not the best way to clear trapped air and it usually doesn't get it all. I got a lot of spitting before the fluid finally flowed steady but no change in the temperature changing from hot to cold when the engine goes from higher RPM's to idle, stopping at red lights. But at least the overheating has stopped.
sorry for the long post..
Changed Thermostat,and cannot get coolant flowing threw heater air bleed!
The Motor will run @ Normal Temp, but coolant isn't flowing threw Heater Core.
1) Rolled Aux coolant pump Relay/fuse ''No Help''
NO volts to DCCV = Closed or no coolant flowing threw heater core.
Suspect: Dual control solenoid seized or a BAD HVAC control module!
MCGIVER
I created an earlier post about the heat turning to cold when the RPM's are at idle. Rod said I had some air trapped because of my thermostat changes. So I went to the bleed procedure found in this forum. The procedure says to fill the system, close the caps, open the heater air bleed, start the car and let it idle until the heater air bleed has a steady flow of fluid. I waited about 40 minutes for the fluid to flow steady and it never happened.
So I called the dealer and explained. They told me that the procedure is wrong, and they weren't surprised because they hear about this incorrectness. he went on to explain that: "To bleed the air from the system you need to modify the step that says to let the engine idle and wait for a steady flow of fluid. Instead it should read:
"Let the engine idle to operating temperatures, heater bleed open. Once the engine reaches operating temperatures, rev the engine to 2000 RPMS for about 45 seconds. As you release the accelerator the heater bleed should release a steady flow of fluid while the RPM's decrease back to idle". repeat until the flow is steady.
He also mentioned that bleeding the air using this procedure is not the best way to clear trapped air and it usually doesn't get it all. I got a lot of spitting before the fluid finally flowed steady but no change in the temperature changing from hot to cold when the engine goes from higher RPM's to idle, stopping at red lights. But at least the overheating has stopped.
sorry for the long post..
danielsatur
04-17-2009, 07:53 PM
Thanks guys!
Just Won Bid on EBAY for a new Bosch DCCV for $99.00
Just Won Bid on EBAY for a new Bosch DCCV for $99.00
RJLipscomb
06-29-2009, 09:45 AM
Check Amazon.com
I bought my Bosch DCCV aka Heater Valve (Motorcraft YG378) for about $86 + $5 shipping (+/-). No bidding, no hassles, standard shipping in 3 days.
I bought my Bosch DCCV aka Heater Valve (Motorcraft YG378) for about $86 + $5 shipping (+/-). No bidding, no hassles, standard shipping in 3 days.
nuckolsk
04-20-2011, 06:00 PM
I created an earlier post about the heat turning to cold when the RPM's are at idle. Rod said I had some air trapped because of my thermostat changes. So I went to the bleed procedure found in this forum. The procedure says to fill the system, close the caps, open the heater air bleed, start the car and let it idle until the heater air bleed has a steady flow of fluid. I waited about 40 minutes for the fluid to flow steady and it never happened.
So I called the dealer and explained. They told me that the procedure is wrong, and they weren't surprised because they hear about this incorrectness. he went on to explain that: "To bleed the air from the system you need to modify the step that says to let the engine idle and wait for a steady flow of fluid. Instead it should read:
"Let the engine idle to operating temperatures, heater bleed open. Once the engine reaches operating temperatures, rev the engine to 2000 RPMS for about 45 seconds. As you release the accelerator the heater bleed should release a steady flow of fluid while the RPM's decrease back to idle". repeat until the flow is steady.
He also mentioned that bleeding the air using this procedure is not the best way to clear trapped air and it usually doesn't get it all. I got a lot of spitting before the fluid finally flowed steady but no change in the temperature changing from hot to cold when the engine goes from higher RPM's to idle, stopping at red lights. But at least the overheating has stopped.
sorry for the long post..
wasted a lot of time last night waiting for a constant flow. ill try this tonight
So I called the dealer and explained. They told me that the procedure is wrong, and they weren't surprised because they hear about this incorrectness. he went on to explain that: "To bleed the air from the system you need to modify the step that says to let the engine idle and wait for a steady flow of fluid. Instead it should read:
"Let the engine idle to operating temperatures, heater bleed open. Once the engine reaches operating temperatures, rev the engine to 2000 RPMS for about 45 seconds. As you release the accelerator the heater bleed should release a steady flow of fluid while the RPM's decrease back to idle". repeat until the flow is steady.
He also mentioned that bleeding the air using this procedure is not the best way to clear trapped air and it usually doesn't get it all. I got a lot of spitting before the fluid finally flowed steady but no change in the temperature changing from hot to cold when the engine goes from higher RPM's to idle, stopping at red lights. But at least the overheating has stopped.
sorry for the long post..
wasted a lot of time last night waiting for a constant flow. ill try this tonight
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