Glueing clear parts

Which glue should i use on clear parts? plastic cement or ca glue?

From the FAQ (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?postid=578992#post578992)

it's amazing what kind of basic modelling information you can find there.

From the FAQ (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?postid=578992#post578992)

it's amazing what kind of basic modelling information you can find there.

This site does have a wonderful FAQ section I recommend it.
The page that came up didn't really say what brand of glue to use so, here goes.

You can use my favorite Testors Clear Parts Cement, white glue, 5 min. Epoxy, or Microscale Micro Kristal Klear.


Hope that helps,
Mark

I use wood glue or microscale crystal clear

Gone for the Microscale Krystal Clear - been using plastic cement with varying results :runaround:

As for me ive used all of above except epoxy/
1.elmers..sometimes drys a bit yellow.not as strong.or clear
2.testors..mine has long curing time..dries yellow sometimes
3.microscal kristal clear...best for me.strong..dries clearest of 3(to me)

Microscale Micro Kristal Clear is the glue you should go! Is drying clear, any excess you could remove with a wet q-tip. I'm glueing every clear parts (car windows and lights, plane canopy's) and also parts they are already painted because normal glue could damage the paint.

Microscale Micro Kristal Clear is a very good product, I use it for 90% of the clear parts. It's relative strong, mistakes are easily corrected,... For bigger parts i use 2compound gleu, but you have to verry care full not to make a mistake.

What ever you do, don't use supergleu or plastic gleu.. it will destroy the parts.

Microscale kristal clear is an easy option to find. You could also look for some non modeller specific vinilic glue. It will dry as hard as kristal clear or even harder, and it will be 100% clear.

There are really fantastic vinilic glues for book binding.

I recently started using "G-S Hypo Cement" that I got from MicroMark. Comes in a tube with a built in fine tip applicator. Dries crystal clear, seems to be plenty strong - but it is a little thick, and you have to watch out for 'stingers' when you pull the tube away from where you've applied it. Is sometimes easier to squeeze some out and apply with a toothpick.

I just use ordinary PVA glue or wood glue as it dries clear and does not make too bad a mess if you get it on painted parts also it cleans up with water while still damp and when dry you can lift it off after trimming with a sharp knife without any marks left behind I find it great stuff and cheaper than most scale model based clear glues.

Dingo :cool: