97 s-10 no spark

I have a 97 s-10 4x4 manual shift I changed out the timeing chain sprockets etc. it ran before I did the job but when I put it back together I an getting no spark turns over fine its got new plugs dist. cap and rotor. and also the kicker is that my ob2 code reader will not even come on and I know this works. I would greatly appreciate any feeb back you can even e-mail me [email protected] thanks

As for the OBDII not reading codes, check both sides of all fuses with a test light or volt meter. Post any codes. What engine? Totally different diagnostics from here on out.

Thanks old master its a 4.3 manual I checked all of the fuses they all check out good I even check all of the fusible links that i could find if you have anymore knowledge or question I will so appreciate it (you don't even know) thanks philip g.

The pink wire at ignition coil and at the ignition module should show battery voltage with the ignition in the RUN and START positions.

The white with black stripe wire at the ignition coil comes directly from the ignition module and should pulse ground while the starter is cranking. Verify these and post your results.

Does the fuel pump come on when the ignition is initially turned to the RUN position and then shut off after 2 seconds?

Both of those wires have voltage and the fuel pump comes on and off properly I check voltage in all fuses and they are all good too.

someone told me that it could be the ignition switch also do you have any feed back on that

If you have proper voltage on the pink wires, the ignition switch is working... at least that circuit is. Does the white with black stripe wire at the ignition coil pulse while cranking? The pulse signal is a ground pulse from the ignition module so if you use a test light, connect the alligator clip to battery positive then probe the white with black stripe wire. Post your results.

the white and black wire at the coil pulsed only one time I undid the my tester and tried it again but it still did not pulse maybe were getting close to the problem. thanks

Yup, getting close. When the engine is cranking, (or running), the crankshaft position sensor sends a pulse to the VCM. The VCM sends a pulse to the ignition control module. The ignition control module sends a pulse to the ignition coil and the coil fires.

The black with white stripe wire at the ignition control module must show less than 5 ohms resistance to ground. Disconnect the electrical connector for this test only, then reconnect and continue.

The white wire at the ignition control module must show a positive voltage pulse while cranking.

The pink wire at the ignition control module must show battery voltage while cranking.

The white with black stripe wire at the ignition control module must show pulsing ground while cranking.

The pink wire at the crankshaft position sensor must show battery voltage with the ignition switch in the RUN and START positions.

Post your results for each wire.

I have the proper spark at all the ares you said. The ohms are also good but I still don't have any pulse on the black and white wires at the control module:confused:

If you have correct voltage on all except the white black stripe wire at the ignition module, the ignition module is faulty. That wire supplies ground to the ignition coil to fire it.

I tried a new ignition module and that did not work tommorrow I will test all of the wires you spoke of before again, if you have any other ideas I will glad to hear them

Notice there is a white wire with a black stripe, and a black wire with a white stripe at the module. Don't get them mixed up. Post your results for each wire.

I went on ahead and checked all of the wires again the white wire at icu did not pulse and also the black and white wire still has no ground pulse

The white wire should pulse positive and the white with black stripe should pulse negative while cranking.

I've been reading these posts, and I know this is going to suck for you seeing how you already had all the stuff apart and changed your sprockets. MORE than likely you accidentally damaged your crankshaft sensor. Makes too much sense seeing how the vehicle quit after working around that area.

I've been reading these posts, and I know this is going to suck for you seeing how you already had all the stuff apart and changed your sprockets. MORE than likely you accidentally damaged your crankshaft sensor. Makes too much sense seeing how the vehicle quit after working around that area.

You may very well be correct! The CKP is the next step in the diagnosis procedure IF there is no pulse at the ignition control module. It's faster and easier to verify a pulse at the module, that's why I started there.

there is no negative pulse on the white and black and I couldn't get any positive pulse on the white wire.

.....and also the kicker is that my ob2 code reader will not even come on and I know this works......

If the crankshaft position sensor, or the circuits for it are faulty, it will set a DTC P0336 in memory. Code readers are not capable of monitoring CKP signal, an enhanced scan tool is necessary for that test. From the test results at the ignition control module, you have to assume that the DTC is in memory so the sensor and circuits must be manually checked, here's how to do it:

1.) Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor. Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine off. In the vehicle harness connector, the pink wire must show battery voltage.

2.) In the vehicle harness connector, check voltage between the purple wire and the pink wire, it must also show battery voltage.

3.) Turn the ignition OFF. Reconnect the crankshaft position sensor. At the VCM blue connector, locate terminal #31, (the yellow signal wire from the crankshaft position sensor). Set your DVOM to the AC voltage range. Connect the ground probe of the DVOM to vehicle ground. With the positive probe of the DVOM, back probe the yellow wire while cranking the engine and observe voltage reading.

Post your results for each of these tests.

it's alive !!!!!!!!! man you guys are pretty good I might have figured it out but I got so irratated with it I was going to roll it into the pond but thanks for everything let me ask youthis yhou it acts like it isn't getting any fuel it will idle fast but you can not give it any gas.:runaround::runaround::runaround::lol2::lol2:: loser::loser:

I think you need to figure out what wire(s) are messed up in the OBDII connector so you can retrieve the codes. You'll probably find the answer to why it's running like that.

What did you do to get spark?

thanks I got the codes ( I am getting closer) the codes are p0118, p0122, p1406, and it also had catalyst, evap, 02 sensor, 02 heater, misfire, fuel, comp, egr I know what most of these are except p0122 what does it mean when it says circuit low or high imput. and I od not know what the words there mean can you give me any insifgt on these thanks.

Always diagnose and repair the first DTC first. Then clear all DTC's and retest. P0118 is coolant temp sensor circuit voltage too high. P0122 is indicating that the Throttle Position Sensor has or had low voltage input to the VCM. P1406 is the EGR circuit. If you turned the ignition switch to the RUN position with any of the sensors disconnected, it will set a DTC for each sensor that was disconnected. Clear all DTC's, shut the ignition off for 30 seconds and re start the engine. If the SES light comes on, retrieve the DTC's and write them down in the order they are retrieved and post them here.

sorry I took so long my son was born friday so that truck was defently on the back burner but I wil check all of this you wrote and get back to you thanks for your help so far.

Congrats on the son! Very special time for you. Post back whenever you can, we'll still be here.