'98 Voyager Preventative Maintenance Suggestions

I have a '98 voyager. It's always been reliable but it's been in the shop for 4 weeks in a row with different problems. This time the temperature gauge is stuck on H and it doesn't move. The guys at the shop told me it might be the head gasket.

What steps can I take to do some MAJOR preventative maintenance? I plan on upgrading the shocks to monroe reflex or kyb shocks. Should I also change the springs or struts? I am getting some sound deadening material to cover the inside of the car to cut down on the rattles. I am changing the brakes as well, any suggestions? Aside from a regular tune up should I do anything else to the engine?

How many more miles can I expect out of this car with regular care?

Besides the temp gauge what kind of problems are they fixing? If the van never really overheated, your gauge issue could be as simple as a $20 ECT sensor. They may have to anyway but, have them change the antfreeze.

Check into Monroe Quick Struts. It's a strut and spring plus upper mount and bushings all in one package that you install as a package. No need for a spring compressor.

I'm guessing you have either the 3.3 or 3.8 ltr engine. Not much to maintain there. Just change the oil and filter. Change the spark plugs using platinum plugs every 100k miles. It uses a timing chain designed to last the life of the van. If you have the 3.0 liter engine it has a timing belt you need to change every 80K miles.

Change (don't flush) the transmission fluid and filter. Use nothing but ATF4 fluid.

I have 206K miles on my 96 and it's running just fine with the original transaxle and engine and pretty much everything else minus the radiator, starter, and the usual replacement items.

Well there is an oil leak somewhere. So far it's little drops. I was told it may be due to a leak in the oilpan. They think they car is overheating and that it's not just the gauge. They also said it was starting to smoke while they were running the engine and that it's boiling it's liquid, I am assuming they meant water. The previous problems I had with it was an electrical drain, if I left it out on the street for a few days the battery would die. That's now been fixed. I've also changed the alternator since then. Afterwards the interior and exterior lights would not come on at all, that was also due to the electrical problem, but now that has been fixed. It's weird that one problem after another has arisen, when for many years now no huge issues were ever present.

I read somewhere that the sensatrac was really old technology used and has since been replaced with an updated system, can you confirm? These shocks seem to be really expensive, are there any cheaper alternatives?

can i ask if what makes tyhe difference in tranny fluid, i used atf III not atf 4

i have 1998 plymouth voyager

When changing (not flushing) the tranny fluid and replacing it with ATF-4, also replace the tranny filter every 30,000 miles or less... you have to drop the pan to do this. Also consider doing a Slick-50 oil treatment every 15,000 miles or less, and always do it in the Fall prior to the cold season - this reduces wear during cold starts and prolongs the overall life of your engine. I have 272,000+ miles on my 3.8L GC/LE and the motor sounds as good as the day I bought it new (no kidding).

slick 50 is crap! it's proven to be just a wallet-lightener by various boards

just maintain it by changing your oil and filter regularly...

mileage on the vehicle? timing belt/waterpump change may be due

1st let us know if you did blew the headgasket; why did u keep on driving the vehicle if you saw H on the temp gauge?!? i hope it's just a faulty sensor or broken wire to the sensor that pegged it on the H level... that's a very costly fix if the HG blew

as far as the trans fluid goes, i agree to change out the filter/oil at least every 2 years

FYI: Chrysler ATF+4 (ATE) -- Introduced in 1998, ATF+4 is synthetic and replaces the previous ATF+3 fluid. Used primarily for 2000 and 2001 vehicles, it can also be used in earlier Chrysler transmissions (except 1999 and older minivans with 41TE/AE transmission). ATF+3 should continue to be used for 1999 and earlier minivans because of the potential for torque converter shudder during break in.

NOTE:Chrysler ATF+4 Must always be used in vehicles that were originally filled with ATF+4. The red dye used in ATF+4 is not permanent. As the fluid ages it may become darker or appear brown in color. ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Therefore, do not relay on the color and odor of ATF+4 to determine if the fluid needs to be changed. Follow the OEM recommended service interval.

well, since your vehicle already is broken-in... ATF4+ is ok to use now, since i believe they're gonna phase out 3?!?
http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm

I am afraid it is something more major than the sensor, due to the smoking in the engine. I was on the highway at the time it happened. It took me about 2 hours to get home, driving for 20 seconds then pulling over for 5 minutes and letting the engine cool down. This is normally a 15 minute drive. Sometimes while driving the gauge would go down by itself, but just by a quarter and then climb back up. How much are we talking about to fix the HG?

thanks for the atf+3 & atf+4 info, idrained my tranny fluid and replaced the filter but the jerky movement did not go away, it sounds like when in shift it jek not clank sound i was thinking could it be the tranny rubber mount? something is not right? it only happens when you take off then slows down but not when you are driving?

is it safe to drive if its acting like that for the long run? no leaks , no visible damage, its just that lil jolt.

hope someone can tell me what else to do.

i flushed and drained tranny fluid 2x already using atf+4 , will follow up what will happen next.

tnks again

thanks for the atf+3 & atf+4 info, idrained my tranny fluid and replaced the filter but the jerky movement did not go away, it sounds like when in shift it jek not clank sound i was thinking could it be the tranny rubber mount? it only happens when you take off then slows down but not when you are driving?

is it safe to drive if its acting like that for the long run? no leaks , no visible damage, its just that lil jolt.


I used to have a very similar problem. It was caused when I didn't have enough oil in the car, you should check yours.

oil? you mean engine oil? will that be related to the tranny issue jerking? because i just changed the oil and im positive its adequate

but ill keep in mind what you suggested. thanks

My issue was an oil leak for the past year, it's minor, a few drops overnight, but that means I have to add motor oil often and sometimes I forget. What used to happen is when I come to a complete stop and hit the accelerator I get a small jerk like something isn't catching. It hasn't happened since I've kept an eye on the fluids.

premier, if they found out that it was a blown HG, you may also have warped the cylinder head... $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

they'll have to dissassemble to check the mating surface of the head as well as the block...

heck, if they're going to do that, throw in the new timing belt/waterpump/ tstat...

timing belt change interval: On 1997-2000 models, inspect at 60,000 mile intervals & replace as required, if belt was satisfactory at 60,000 miles, replace at 90,000 miles... this is an INTERFERENCE ENGINE... look/google that up on what happens if that timing belt snaps;gonna cost you more $$$

this'll be your major priority as well as new plugs, check o2 sensor etc.

brakes are a close second priority, depending on how much pad material you have left

shocks/struts & sound deadening will be last... that's only for comfort.

GL; it seems your reliable vehicle has now become a money-pit

it seems your reliable vehicle has now become a money-pit

Your right about that! I am hoping that it's something small and that I can spend a few hundred on maintenance and small upgrades here and there. I know the 90k range for these vehicles is nothing, so I am hoping to hold onto it for at least another year.

Up to now they haven't been able to find out what's wrong. We're now into week 5.

Has a compression test been done or a coolant pressure test??

Are you needing to add coolant??

I don't think a compression test has been done, can you tell me more about that. When you say coolant you mean antifreeze?

Definatly do the compression test to be sure it is the HG. My 97 was notorious for puking oil. I originally thought it was a head gasket but turned out to be the rear cam seal. You might want to just get a speedy sleeve as it is a fairly big job to get at the rear cam and you dont want to do it twice. Might as well do the crank seal while you have timing chain cover off. They were all the same size seal and about $10.00 CAD a piece.

Btw, I blew our timing belt and there was no damage (3.o engine) so I'm guessing they are a non-interferance engine so you should be able to do your timing belt and seals all at the same time probably for about 100 bucks if you do your own work.

Compression check is done using a compression testing gauge available at harbor freight for about $10.00 or at auto parts stores, some may even rent them.

First remove Fuel pump fuse, start engine until it dies.
Remove all spark plugs
Turn compression testing gauge hose into a spark plug hole
Turn engine over approx 3-4 times using the igntion switch, the gauge will tell what the compression is, record reading for that clyinder, relieve compression in the gauge, remove gauge and move onto next clyinder.

You should have no more than 10 percent difference in reading on any given clyinder. If you have a reading of zero compression you have either a faulty head gasket or burnt valve. If you have 2 clyinders side by side that have zero compression you have a bad head gasket.

By coolant I do mean antifreeze.

Which engine do you have??????????
Record compression for each clyinder

I have the base engine in mine. I don't know what spec that is, I believe it's a v6 3.0. I am not mechanically inclined. I'll have to ask them about this at the shop.

Can someone give me steps to remove the carpet on the inside of the vehicle, floor, roof and doors? I have some sound deadening material I want to install to quiet the vehicle on the inside. Do I need a special tool or will some stanard screw drivers be enough? Will I need to buy any type of glue to re adhere the carpet to the car, or will the molding that keeps it in be enough?

May I suggest getting yourself a Haynes repair manual for your vehicle at a autoparts store, about 20 bucks. It will help you understand the vehicle and has other useful info.

That's good advice, I'll make sure I pick that up!

May I suggest getting yourself a Haynes repair manual for your vehicle at a autoparts store, about 20 bucks. It will help you understand the vehicle and has other useful info.

oooorrrrrrrrrrrr

you can log onto autozone for the same manual, only this is online for free...

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm

Well I got my car back today. The problem was the new thermostat they installed the previous time wasn't functioning correctly and some other issues with the fans not coming on when you turned the ignition on. So far it's running good, only a few days of driving can tell.

I've spent all day doing as many modifications to the car as I could. I've installed brighter bulbs in the headlights, cleaned the lenses, recalibrated the ac to get rid of the hvac blinking(thanks to posts on this forum), gave it a good washing inside and out.

I plan to change the brakes, shocks and get a good tune up in a few weeks. After that I hope there won't be any major issues like this again. I just have to get someone to look at the rusted mounts under the hood.

you can log onto autozone for the same manual, only this is online for free...

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm

Thanks for this. Any ideas for removing the roofline? There was no directions in that guide