my taillights and dash lights don't work on 92 grand marquis
shinee
02-27-2009, 10:45 PM
My taillight and dashlights don't work can someone give me a solution checked fuses and bulbs don't know what to do .:confused::confused::confused:
way2old
02-28-2009, 10:39 AM
Have you checked the headlight switch?
cbvince
04-04-2009, 08:49 PM
I'm having the same problem. I checked the fuses under the dash, and they all seem to be fine. I even switched them all out with a spare to see if that would do the trick. What would I look for on the headlight switch? Thanks in advance for the help.
rskiller36
04-05-2009, 05:21 PM
I had the same problem... you need to pull the dash panel loose and get at the headlight switch. you will find burn marks on the side of the white electrical connector for the head light switch. It appears that Ford used the wrong gauge wire for this connection. The female electrical terminals in the connector get hot and it causes the female terminal to have a "Spread terminal" thus, you lose your electrical connection between the connector and the switch. I spliced in a larger gauge wire and put on a new terminal and fixed the problem. The dealer will actually have a repair kit (Harness) that can be purchased for about $20.00. this kit will be 5-6 wires that are already inserted into a new connector and all you have to do is splice the new wires into the old ones...Make sure that you cut the wires as close to the old connector as possible allowing yourself room to do the splicing. This will let you do the splicing outside of the dash. working inside the dash area is difficult.
go to this link to see pictures of the problem...
http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2008/07/1994-ford-crown-victoria-no-tail-lights.html
Here is the link to purchase the repair harness...you might have to click the link, close it , then hit it again and it will show the part...
http://store.the-electric-connection.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=stevene55&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=270717799&Count2=187858223&ProductID=21&Target=products.asp
Here are the instructions on how to get to the switch:
Headlamp Switch—Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis
Removal and Installation
Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01.
Remove light switch knob (11666) from headlamp switch (11654) by grasping knob and pulling out.
Remove instrument panel finish panel (044D70) from instrument panel (04320). Refer to Section 01-12.
Disconnect main wiring (14401) connector from headlamp switch.
Remove nut retaining headlamp switch to headlamp switch bracket (11A668) and remove switch.
To install, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten switch retaining nut to 3 Nm (26 lb-in).
go to this link to see pictures of the problem...
http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2008/07/1994-ford-crown-victoria-no-tail-lights.html
Here is the link to purchase the repair harness...you might have to click the link, close it , then hit it again and it will show the part...
http://store.the-electric-connection.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=stevene55&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=270717799&Count2=187858223&ProductID=21&Target=products.asp
Here are the instructions on how to get to the switch:
Headlamp Switch—Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis
Removal and Installation
Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01.
Remove light switch knob (11666) from headlamp switch (11654) by grasping knob and pulling out.
Remove instrument panel finish panel (044D70) from instrument panel (04320). Refer to Section 01-12.
Disconnect main wiring (14401) connector from headlamp switch.
Remove nut retaining headlamp switch to headlamp switch bracket (11A668) and remove switch.
To install, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten switch retaining nut to 3 Nm (26 lb-in).
PICKUP6772
04-17-2009, 07:22 PM
You can save yourself a little time, and unnecessary connections by swapping the GOOD wires over to the new harness connector. ONLY splice the ones that are burned. You can remove each wire by using a thin screwdriver, or pick, push the locking tab, and remove the wire, then remove the corresponding wire in the new connector, insert the old wire in until you hear "CLICK". This way you lessen the chance of a bad connection that will either cause the same problem, or worse, a fire. This is also a common problem with the E series vans, and I've done quite a few at the bus co. I work for. It also saves time, as you don't have to fight the lack of space cutting, striping, crimping, etc.
rskiller36
04-19-2009, 03:07 PM
You are correct, I might also add that it is sometimes difficult to determine which circuits have been damaged... if you are experienced at releasing the locking fingers in this connector and can pic the terminals out, you can make a better assessment of what circuits or terminals are damaged. some early stages of the problem will show a "Spread" terminal... that is when the internal contacts (Beams) inside of the terminal are spread apart and can no longer make constant contact with the male bladed terminals. this condition sometimes happens when too much current is pushed through the wrong gauge wire type, it causes the terminal to heat up and dis-figure internally... I run a pre-production facility at a wire harness company for the automotive industry and have seen this happen when people over heat a terminal when soldering a hand crimped terminal.. Ford really screwed up with this one by using the wrong wire gauge size...
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
