Bitch pin

Does anyone have a better way to remove the bitch pin in the shift linkage? or the proper punch to use, its about a 1/4 of the way out i pounded on it for about 30 mins today and thats about as far as i could get it. any suggestions? i have to get this one out plus they just cut the linkage on the y1 tranny and i have to get that one out too. HELP!!!!:banghead:

Drills don't work, you'll break the bits quick as you can get them started.

You really have to make sure you're hitting it in the right direction, as well. You should be knocking it from the top down, iirc. They're taper-fit. Most people use one of the bolts from the A/C pump, they're just the right size to fit the pin.

8mm punch. Here's a whole thread on H-T about it, for more ideas:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=470849

Drills don't work, you'll break the bits quick as you can get them started.

You really have to make sure you're hitting it in the right direction, as well. You should be knocking it from the top down, iirc.



It doesn't matter which way.

Here's another link I saw today:
http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/honda/bitch/bitch.html

Easiest way:

Remove the bolt holding the other end of the linkage to the transmission. Use said bolt to punch bitch pin out.

Doesn't matter which way you go with it, just which ever you have more room to hit it with.

thanks guys, i used the bolt for the shift stabilizer, put it in a 12mm socket, put all my extentions together, was able to get a good swing from up top, 2 hits, much thanxx

not a problem. Everyone looks far away for something to use to knock that thing out...when its right there by it :)

I usually use my handy hex driver socket on the end of a couple extensions. The ED chassis makes it easy to get to it from the top.. the EG etc do not.

Hell, I always assumed it was tapered, b/c I could never get it out going up from the bottom... two hits going down from the top, and it was done for.

I usually replace it w/ interference fit bolt that's been in the freezer the whole time I'm working on whatever reason I needed to take the stupid thing out. A bolt that isn't interference fit will allow the linkage to move slightly... I prefer tight shifts and no wobble-wear.

Hell, I always assumed it was tapered, b/c I could never get it out going up from the bottom... two hits going down from the top, and it was done for.

I usually replace it w/ interference fit bolt that's been in the freezer the whole time I'm working on whatever reason I needed to take the stupid thing out. A bolt that isn't interference fit will allow the linkage to move slightly... I prefer tight shifts and no wobble-wear.


Buying a new expansion pin from Honda for a few bucks works just as well.

Buying a new expansion pin from Honda for a few bucks works just as well.

3 things:

1. They're cheaper at the local hardware store, and they're called "roll pins".

2. There is a reason I don't put it back in... same reason it's called a "bitch pin" to begin with. Bolt works fine, and it's alot easier to get back out.

3. Cynicism hasn't been funny since the invention of /B/.

3 things:

1. They're cheaper at the local hardware store, and they're called "roll pins".

2. There is a reason I don't put it back in... same reason it's called a "bitch pin" to begin with. Bolt works fine, and it's alot easier to get back out.

3. Cynicism hasn't been funny since the invention of /B/.


So you got me on a wording error. Kind of like saying you have to knock it from the top down.

Getting the pin out is not that tough. There are plenty of other ways than using a a hammer on a bolt. (http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/honda/bitch/bitch.html) Using the wrong tool for the job results in a mushroomed pin which will of course give you grief while trying to put it back in.

I have replaced many hacked up ways that people can think of in securing the linkage. Everything from zip ties, to running a bolt through it. I have even seen your cheap hardware store pins fail, and offer sloppy results. So I will always use the correct pin for that, and I will always recommend the correct pin.

So while shadetree mechanics are great to talk about, more often than not cutting corners results in more problems down the road.

I'm lazy and work on my car way to much to be putting a new pin everytime I need to take it apart. My fix does leave some slack in it, but its nothing that drives me nuts over. I just go to the hardware store and pick up a "trailer hitch" pin(can't remember the correct name) and a cotter pin. Not the best fix in the world, but if you have to do a lot of work on it, or a lot of quick work, its does its job. And if it never worked its way out running around on a rough as dirt track, it works for me. Only draw back from it is a little wiggle in the shifter, but not enough to screw you up.

Any way around it, there are several different ways to remove the pin and there are several ways to replace it. Choose which ever way you want, its your vehicle....just don't use zip ties.

hahaha, zip ties! man that must feel as sloppy as my ex-fiance after an all nighter! But n e wayz, im just gonna put a new bitch pin in it. it wasnt that hard after i got some good info, much like my equipment not being that hard after i got some info on my ex-fiance!! lol, that cheatin bitch!!