Pulling Heads for Exhaust

I have a 92 S10 Blazer, TBI, 4x4, 4.3L. I need to replace the exhaust down pipe gaskets and of course the bolts broke in the exhaust manifold. So it's possible that the heads may need removing if the manifold bolts break off when trying to remove them.

I just read BlackBlazOn's 'How-To' for replacing head gaskets, since I may have to pull my heads for this exhaust manifold work. My experience goes as far down as pulling the intake manifold and valve covers. After that, is it just pulling the rocker arms and head bolts? If I could remove the heads myself then take them to the shop for drilling and refinishing, that would save me a lot of money. I have all the tools necessary and a shop manual for specs/torch. What is your advice? Are pulling heads as scary as it seems? Could I just leave the exhaust manifolds on the heads and remove them as one piece from each side?

I have a 92 S10 Blazer, TBI, 4x4, 4.3L. I need to replace the exhaust down pipe gaskets and of course the bolts broke in the exhaust manifold. So it's possible that the heads may need removing if the manifold bolts break off when trying to remove them.

I just read BlackBlazOn's 'How-To' for replacing head gaskets, since I may have to pull my heads for this exhaust manifold work. My experience goes as far down as pulling the intake manifold and valve covers. After that, is it just pulling the rocker arms and head bolts? If I could remove the heads myself then take them to the shop for drilling and refinishing, that would save me a lot of money. I have all the tools necessary and a shop manual for specs/torch. What is your advice? Are pulling heads as scary as it seems? Could I just leave the exhaust manifolds on the heads and remove them as one piece from each side?

What have you done?
Broke exhaust pipe bolts or manifold to head bolts.
The exhaust pipe bolts can be drilled and tapper with removing heads.
If you are not experienced with drilling and taping take it to a good muffler exhaust shop.
They have to deal with it all of the time.
Let us know how it goes.

I have a 92 S10 Blazer, TBI, 4x4, 4.3L. I need to replace the exhaust down pipe gaskets and of course the bolts broke in the exhaust manifold. So it's possible that the heads may need removing if the manifold bolts break off when trying to remove them.

I just read BlackBlazOn's 'How-To' for replacing head gaskets, since I may have to pull my heads for this exhaust manifold work. My experience goes as far down as pulling the intake manifold and valve covers. After that, is it just pulling the rocker arms and head bolts? If I could remove the heads myself then take them to the shop for drilling and refinishing, that would save me a lot of money. I have all the tools necessary and a shop manual for specs/torch. What is your advice? Are pulling heads as scary as it seems? Could I just leave the exhaust manifolds on the heads and remove them as one piece from each side?

It sounds like you want to replace your exhaust donuts? These bolts commonly break. If I were you I would take it to a exhaust shop and have them replace the studs. That's way easier than taking your exhaust manifolds off to do it. if you have to take your head off to have the machine shop retap a broken bolt in a head You have that expense and all the gaskets you need for the top half of the motor not including your labor what's that worth. I think it would be cheaper at the exhaust shop. JMO

I've broken some of the donut bolts already and I took it to a shop today and they say they would need to remove the exhaust manifolds in order to drill out the broken pieces. That, of course, may lead to breaking a manifold bolt in the head. That's where I'm at right now. Should I attempt to remove the exhaust manifolds myself, or should they be able to remove the broken bolts without removing the manifolds?

I've broken some of the donut bolts already and I took it to a shop today and they say they would need to remove the exhaust manifolds in order to drill out the broken pieces. That, of course, may lead to breaking a manifold bolt in the head. That's where I'm at right now. Should I attempt to remove the exhaust manifolds myself, or should they be able to remove the broken bolts without removing the manifolds?

Try to or find a muffler shop that will drill out the exhaust pipe bolts.
Removing the exhaust manifold may get you in the hot water deeper.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

I've pulled off dozens of heads off old/new vehicles and have yet to need to remove the heads due to a broken bolt. If anything they sometimes rust into the manifold and when you snap off the head there is enough left to clamp on a pair of vicegrips to and turn out.

What if there isn't anything to grab onto? I'll have to drill, eh? What is a good way to get a nut off of a bolt as to remove it from the flange?

If you have to remove the head because of a broken exhaust manifold bolt, I wouldn't worry that much about breaking a head bolt. I can't say that I've ever heard anyone that I know breaking a head bolt. You could technically remove the head with the manifold on.

1. You will not need to remove the head.
2. If you cannot get a drill up by the flange to drill out the broken bolt then you will need to pull the manifold.
3. If it is stripped already then cut it off with a torch..

This is a job best left to a good exhaust mechanic since they will have the tools and experience to make it a rather simple job. It is worth spending the money since they will get it done in an hour or 2 using a lift where someone on the ground using jacks/jack stands will need most of the day.

I've broken some of the donut bolts already and I took it to a shop today and they say they would need to remove the exhaust manifolds in order to drill out the broken pieces. That, of course, may lead to breaking a manifold bolt in the head. That's where I'm at right now. Should I attempt to remove the exhaust manifolds myself, or should they be able to remove the broken bolts without removing the manifolds?

most likely the manifold bolts will not break, I wouldn't worry about that, did u break the donut studs off on both manifolds? Usually u have to heat up these bolts before trying to take them out or they'll break off. I had to remove my entire exhaust system to take my tranny out and my truck with 80,000 miles had to be heated and they came right out.

This is a job best left to a good exhaust mechanic since they will have the tools and experience to make it a rather simple job. It is worth spending the money since they will get it done in an hour or 2 using a lift where someone on the ground using jacks/jack stands will need most of the day.

We're here to help the guy who wants to do it himself. If we sent everything to the shop then why are we here on this forum? :banghead: We wouldn't need a forum if it all went to the shop :runaround:

We're here to help the guy who wants to do it himself. If we sent everything to the shop then why are we here on this forum? :banghead: We wouldn't need a forum if it all went to the shop :runaround:

So very true, BUT there are some things that are better to hire out, like jobs that require a lift. By the time you spend a hole day fixing the broken bolts, a exhaust shop can have it done in a hour or 2. Some times u have to consider this, i like to do my own work myself but I have a lift and trust me it makes a difference.

So very true, BUT there are some things that are better to hire out, like jobs that require a lift. By the time you spend a hole day fixing the broken bolts, a exhaust shop can have it done in a hour or 2. Some times u have to consider this, i like to do my own work myself but I have a lift and trust me it makes a difference.

I will agree with you on the lift portion. However, 2 hours vs all day - if you have the whole day free to work on the truck, then why pay someone to do it?

We're here to help the guy who wants to do it himself. If we sent everything to the shop then why are we here on this forum? :banghead: We wouldn't need a forum if it all went to the shop :runaround:

We are here to give good advice also not just how to DIY it.
When someone is taking a chance of making a mess out of it or does not have the experiance and know how and proper tools to do the job right I would consider sending it out good repair advise.

I agree with all of you! Ha. I do love working on my own truck, but sometimes, especially when in school, it's best to take it out. I have the tools, but crawling around on the ground with a torch, drill, flashlight, etc. just doesn't sound fun right now. I'm going to go by the Midas tomorrow and hopefully it'll work out easy enough. I would like to, in the future, replace my head gaskets as a preventive maintenance measure. I don't think they've ever been replaced and I loose a bit of oil and coolant over time. i figure do it now before I have to stop on the side of the road. Are the rocker arms on the 92s just bolt-on?

I agree with all of you! Ha. I do love working on my own truck, but sometimes, especially when in school, it's best to take it out. I have the tools, but crawling around on the ground with a torch, drill, flashlight, etc. just doesn't sound fun right now. I'm going to go by the Midas tomorrow and hopefully it'll work out easy enough. I would like to, in the future, replace my head gaskets as a preventive maintenance measure. I don't think they've ever been replaced and I loose a bit of oil and coolant over time. i figure do it now before I have to stop on the side of the road. Are the rocker arms on the 92s just bolt-on?

Good luck.
Head gaskets very seldom need replaced and is not a preventive maintenance idem.

Good luck.
Head gaskets very seldom need replaced and is not a preventive maintenance idem.

What are some good preventive maintenance things I could do? I keep up with my vehicle's scheduled maintenance very well.

What are some good preventive maintenance things I could do? I keep up with my vehicle's scheduled maintenance very well.


A good repair program like all data on line sub goes threw all of that.

http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

Your owners manual maintenance should cover most of it.

I like to do oil changes with regular oil more often than manufacture says.
Like every 3K.
And also do coolant service ever 50K or 3 years.
Transmission pan drop and filter ever 50 K
Brake system flush ever 75 K or 5 years
And 100K is stretching plugs life.

Thanks.

A good repair program like all data on line sub goes threw all of that.

http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

Your owners manual maintenance should cover most of it.

I like to do oil changes with regular oil more often than manufacture says.
Like every 3K.
And also do coolant service ever 50K or 3 years.
Transmission pan drop and filter ever 50 K
Brake system flush ever 75 K or 5 years
And 100K is stretching plugs life.

I agree with mt I wouldn't touch them heads unless there were signs of head gasket failure. Good luck at the muffler shop.

I went to Midas today and they also told me they would have to pull the manifolds. Should I just do that myself and take them in, or should there be someone who can do this work without removing the manifolds? If they have to be removed, I'd rather do it myself to avoid higher costs, but I just feel someone should be able to do it without removing the manifolds.

I went to Midas today and they also told me they would have to pull the manifolds. Should I just do that myself and take them in, or should there be someone who can do this work without removing the manifolds? If they have to be removed, I'd rather do it myself to avoid higher costs, but I just feel someone should be able to do it without removing the manifolds.

Well I would do it myself if you feel comfortable doing it. Just take your time and don't try to rush it that's when we make mistakes. It's not to hard, first remove your exhaust y pipe by most likely snapping off the rest of the studs, then you should have access to your exhaust manifolds, you'll probably have to remove your spark plugs ans wires to get them out of the way. Then take out your exhaust manifold bolts and cross your fingers.. If you get lucky they'll come right out, here's a tip make sure you use a 6-point socket over these bolts so they don't strip the heads off them. You'll be surprised how many people use 12-point sockets and strip these. And of course have fun.

I went to Midas today and they also told me they would have to pull the manifolds. Should I just do that myself and take them in, or should there be someone who can do this work without removing the manifolds? If they have to be removed, I'd rather do it myself to avoid higher costs, but I just feel someone should be able to do it without removing the manifolds.

Pulling the manifolds runs the risk of twisting/breaking a manifold bolt off in the head.
It is your call.
But.
If you can find anyone that can just drill out exhaust pipe to manifold bolts is best and safest.
Let us know how it goes.
Good Luck

Pulling the manifolds runs the risk of twisting/breaking a manifold bolt off in the head.
It is your call.
But.
If you can find anyone that can just drill out exhaust pipe to manifold bolts is best and safest.
Let us know how it goes.
Good Luck

That's a pretty tight area to work in MT to drill and tap these holes in place would be a true PITA that's most likely why midas passed on the job. Anytime we tear down we run a risk of breaking or snapping something. I've removed many and only had a few break on me. Just use the right tool for the job and he'll be alright.

Midas probably passed on the job because noone has the skills to do this type of job at most discount muffler shops. Find a reputable repair shop. Stay away from chain repair shops. Anyone with a lift and a few basic tools can easily do this as long as they have the experience. Sadly, most chain repair shops are lucky to have 1 guy that has received much training. They only need one certified mechanic to claim they have certified mechanics legally.

I found a place that does only hvac and exhaust systems. Hopefully, they'll be more helpful. The guy sounded more confident about the job.

I found a place that does only hvac and exhaust systems. Hopefully, they'll be more helpful. The guy sounded more confident about the job.

Good luck, I could do it for you but it might be a long drive... lol

Oh Michigan from Florida is only 19 hours!!

OH yeah, it says I'm in TX! I'm in Florida right now for school.

Well, an hour and $100 later, I got the bolts and springs fixed and the donuts replaced. Too bad that wasn't the cause of my ticking noise. I really hoped it was. Apparently, the guy believe it's most likely a lifter. What does working on lifters entail? Is this something I could do? I don't know how far into the engine I'd have to go, but I'm willing to do it.

Well, an hour and $100 later, I got the bolts and springs fixed and the donuts replaced. Too bad that wasn't the cause of my ticking noise. I really hoped it was. Apparently, the guy believe it's most likely a lifter. What does working on lifters entail? Is this something I could do? I don't know how far into the engine I'd have to go, but I'm willing to do it.

Good and bad news.:rofl:
Firts step is to make sure it is a lifter or rocker arm is ticking.
Then next step is to remove the valve cover and inspect the rockers and rocker nut/bolt and push rods and valve springs.

If a lifter the intake has to come off to replace.

Is the oil good and clean and are you using good oil filter?

What engine code?
W is non adjustable rocker arms and Z can go either way.
If Z code engine with adjustable rocker arms a good adjustment can sometimes help ticking rockers.
Good Luck

It is a Z engine. What the ways of finding out what is ticking? How do I know if I have adjustable rockers? How do I adjust them?

It is a Z engine. What the ways of finding out what is ticking? How do I know if I have adjustable rockers? How do I adjust them?


To find ticking feel and listen.

Spot the ticking first.


If adjustable it will have studs in the head with adjusting nuts on top of rocker.

If adjustable rocker with the cylinder on TDC compressuion adjust down to o lash and then tighten down to center of lifter.
3 turn lifter you center it at 1- 1/2 turns.

A good repair manual gives the procedure to adjust them.

What would be the process of fixing the ticking with non-adjustable rockers?

You need to determine if it is indeed a bad lifter or if the camshaft is going bad.

As in non adjustable no adjustment.
Pull valve cover on ticking side and feel rockers and push rods and valve springs.
Watch all of them for full opening.
But
FIND THE TICKING FIRST THING.
And then we can go from there.
Reort back what tou find with valve cover off.

This may be a newb question, but is it safe to run the engine with a valve cover off? I'm going to look at it today and I'll let you know what I find out.

This may be a newb question, but is it safe to run the engine with a valve cover off? I'm going to look at it today and I'll let you know what I find out.

Yes it is safe back in the day that's how we used to adjust the rockers now I use a different procedure.

What did I do!?!?! I took off both valve covers today to listen for the clicking noise, but I was unable to pinpoint the problem. So I decided to go through my shop manuals procedure for adjusting the rocker arms. It said to put the engine in the number 1 piston firing position and then adjust the listed rocker arms. Then turn the engine one full rotation and adjust the remaining rocker arms. To adjust the rockers, it said to back off the nut until there is slack in the rod (feel slack by spinning the rod), and then slowing tighten the nut back down until the slack is gone, then turn the nut one full turn. After putting it all back together, the truck wouldn't start. It sounded as if the starter was just spinning and nothing else. As far as I could tell, I put everything back together correctly. What would cause this? Did I adjust the rocker arms incorrectly??

What did I do!?!?! I took off both valve covers today to listen for the clicking noise, but I was unable to pinpoint the problem. So I decided to go through my shop manuals procedure for adjusting the rocker arms. It said to put the engine in the number 1 piston firing position and then adjust the listed rocker arms. Then turn the engine one full rotation and adjust the remaining rocker arms. To adjust the rockers, it said to back off the nut until there is slack in the rod (feel slack by spinning the rod), and then slowing tighten the nut back down until the slack is gone, then turn the nut one full turn. After putting it all back together, the truck wouldn't start. It sounded as if the starter was just spinning and nothing else. As far as I could tell, I put everything back together correctly. What would cause this? Did I adjust the rocker arms incorrectly??

Sure does sound like it.

How did you set it for no 1 firing position?

What valves did you adjust on no 1 TDC compression and what valves did you set and where did you turn it to for second setting?

Sure does sound like it.

How did you set it for no 1 firing position?

What valves did you adjust on no 1 TDC compression and what valves did you set and where did you turn it to for second setting?

Knowing that my harmonic balancer may be off, I made sure through the plug port, with my finger, that the #1 cyl. was on it's compression stroke while watching the marks match up. I can't recall which rockers exactly, but I went by the book (I don't have the book with me right now). Then it said one full turn back to the same mark (which would be #4 compression, correct) to adjust the remaining rockers. I think I'm going to grab a compression checker do double/triple check TDC. Where do I go from here?

Knowing that my harmonic balancer may be off, I made sure through the plug port, with my finger, that the #1 cyl. was on it's compression stroke while watching the marks match up. I can't recall which rockers exactly, but I went by the book (I don't have the book with me right now). Then it said one full turn back to the same mark (which would be #4 compression, correct) to adjust the remaining rockers. I think I'm going to grab a compression checker do double/triple check TDC. Where do I go from here?

Yes check it to be sure.

By the book has to be followed right on the money.
Piston hast to be tdc and do not confuse cylinders No's or intake or exhaust valves.

1-3-5 cylinders on driver side. 2-4-6 on pass side.
No 1 TDC compression.
Adjust 1-2-3 intake and 1-5-6 exhaust valves.
Rotate 360 degrees to no 4 TDC compression.
Adjust 4-5-6 intake and 2-3-4 exhaust valves.


I prefer another way I picked up 40 years ago.

I adjust both valves on opposite firing cylinder when the valves on cylinder are rocking.
as in one opening and one closing on same cylinder.
This way also tells you if timing marker is right and or if timing chain /cam is in time.

Bring No 1 cylinder up to TDC compression and watch no 4 cylinder valves for the valve rock. One opening and one closing.
The valve rock will always be on the opposite firing cylinder.

like as in firing order 1-4 6-3 5-2 4-1 3-6 2-5

Adjust no1 cylinder valves when no 4 cyl valves are rocking.

The rotate engine till no 3 valves rock and adjust no 6 cyl valves.

Rotate eng till no 2 cyl valves rock and adjust no 5 cylinder valve.

Rotate eng to no 1 cyl rock and adjust no 4 cyl valves.

Rotate eng till no 6 valves rock and adj no 3 cyl valve.

Rotate eng untill no 5 valves rock and adjust no 2 cyl valves.

Okay, I will be trying this again. Damn, taking the covers off suck. I'll let you know.

Yes check it to be sure.

By the book has to be followed right on the money.
Piston hast to be tdc and do not confuse cylinders No's or intake or exhaust valves.

1-3-5 cylinders on driver side. 2-4-6 on pass side.
No 1 TDC compression.
Adjust 1-2-3 intake and 1-5-6 exhaust valves.
Rotate 360 degrees to no 4 TDC compression.
Adjust 4-5-6 intake and 2-3-4 exhaust valves.


I prefer another way I picked up 40 years ago.

I adjust both valves on opposite firing cylinder when the valves on cylinder are rocking.
as in one opening and one closing on same cylinder.
This way also tells you if timing marker is right and or if timing chain /cam is in time.

Bring No 1 cylinder up to TDC compression and watch no 4 cylinder valves for the valve rock. One opening and one closing.
The valve rock will always be on the opposite firing cylinder.

like as in firing order 1-4 6-3 5-2 4-1 3-6 2-5

Adjust no1 cylinder valves when no 4 cyl valves are rocking.

The rotate engine till no 3 valves rock and adjust no 6 cyl valves.

Rotate eng till no 2 cyl valves rock and adjust no 5 cylinder valve.

Rotate eng to no 1 cyl rock and adjust no 4 cyl valves.

Rotate eng till no 6 valves rock and adj no 3 cyl valve.

Rotate eng untill no 5 valves rock and adjust no 2 cyl valves.


Okay, I went through the adjustment process again. I got the engine running! Now, how do I fine tune it to not run rough, because it is running rough now? How can I adjust the valves now without messing it up again?

After some more research, I may have found out why I'm still having problems. I think I still have the rockers too tight. When I took out the lash from the rods, I took all the lash, meaning, I couldn't rotate the rod, then I turned it a full turn to finish. I've read that taking out the lash means when you begin to feel any resistance in the rod, then turn it a full turn. Some even say just 3/4 turn to finish. After I get the rockers tightened correctly, should any of the rockers be loose? I've noticed after adjusting the rockers, some still seemed loose.

Okay, I went through the adjustment process again. I got the engine running! Now, how do I fine tune it to not run rough, because it is running rough now? How can I adjust the valves now without messing it up again?

If you done it right the valves should be adjusted right.
Which procedure did you use?
If missing check compresion and post back compression readings.

If one way does not work try the other.
Let us know how it goes.

If you done it right the valves should be adjusted right.
Which procedure did you use?
If missing check compresion and post back compression readings.

If one way does not work try the other.
Let us know how it goes.

I believe I have the valves better adjusted today, though I do believe I'll be doing it one more time before I'm through.

The ticking has been adjusted out. I did the book adjustment with a final adjustment with the engine running. Here are some other problems:
1) Only the passenger side seemed to be getting a good amount of oil to the rockers, and most of it was on the #2 exhaust lifter. Makes sense due to the fact that the ticking was on the driver's side. I must be getting plenty of oil to them while driving though, because my valve cover PCV valve and vent both have oil in them all the time. I attribute this to the higher flow (or capacity) oil pump I put in years ago. I don't like it. I think I lose more oil that way than I should.
2) I can't set the timing correctly for some reason. I tried to set it today and no matter which way I turn the dist. the car will die. I can't figure this one out. This has been an ongoing problem. The car runs smoothly while driving, but lacks power in acceleration and idles very low at stops. So low that at stop lights, the engine will bog down multiple times and sometimes shut off. I know this must be due to timing. I do have the advance wire plugged in, and yes, unplugged while setting with a light. Or could I have a vac leak some where I haven't noticed?
3) When finding TDC for the valve adjustments, I used one mark on the harmonic balancer. When I adjusted the timing, the light flashed on the other mark. Does this mean I used the wrong mark for the valve adjustments??

In conclusion, the ticking is gone, but the timing can't be set correctly. Any ideas?

I believe I have the valves better adjusted today, though I do believe I'll be doing it one more time before I'm through.

The ticking has been adjusted out. I did the book adjustment with a final adjustment with the engine running. Here are some other problems:
1) Only the passenger side seemed to be getting a good amount of oil to the rockers, and most of it was on the #2 exhaust lifter. Makes sense due to the fact that the ticking was on the driver's side. I must be getting plenty of oil to them while driving though, because my valve cover PCV valve and vent both have oil in them all the time. I attribute this to the higher flow (or capacity) oil pump I put in years ago. I don't like it. I think I lose more oil that way than I should.
2) I can't set the timing correctly for some reason. I tried to set it today and no matter which way I turn the dist. the car will die. I can't figure this one out. This has been an ongoing problem. The car runs smoothly while driving, but lacks power in acceleration and idles very low at stops. So low that at stop lights, the engine will bog down multiple times and sometimes shut off. I know this must be due to timing. I do have the advance wire plugged in, and yes, unplugged while setting with a light. Or could I have a vac leak some where I haven't noticed?
3) When finding TDC for the valve adjustments, I used one mark on the harmonic balancer. When I adjusted the timing, the light flashed on the other mark. Does this mean I used the wrong mark for the valve adjustments??

In conclusion, the ticking is gone, but the timing can't be set correctly. Any ideas?

You hit the nail on the head if your ticking is gone.

On the timing yiou nhaqve to find the rightb timingt mark and then ndisable the EST bypass wire to set timing.

To find the right mark feel for the piston to reach TDC.

Or when no 1 or opsite firing cylinder valves are rocking it will be at tdc.

Have you run a compression ckeck yet.

Also run a engine vacuum check at idle and at 2K rpm.
Post back vacuum readings and compression readings.

You hit the nail on the head if your ticking is gone.

On the timing you have to find the right timing mark and then disable the EST bypass wire to set timing.

To find the right mark feel for the piston to reach TDC.

Or when no 6 or no 1 cylinder valves are rocking it will be at tdc.

Have you run a compression check yet.

Also run a engine vacuum check at idle and at 2K rpm.
Post back vacuum readings and compression readings.

No I haven't done the compression check yet. I get it done though. How do I find 2k rpm without a tach?? How do I install a tach if I wanted to? I'm going to do the "oil in the tube" test to find TDC because I just don't trust my harmonic balancer. And just to be sure, the EST timing wire is the one on the passenger side under the glove box right? I believe it's brown?

No I haven't done the compression check yet. I get it done though. How do I find 2k rpm without a tach?? How do I install a tach if I wanted to? I'm going to do the "oil in the tube" test to find TDC because I just don't trust my harmonic balancer. And just to be sure, the EST timing wire is the one on the passenger side under the glove box right? I believe it's brown?

On the vacuum test just check it at idle and then speed up to a good fast idle.


Yes on wire if single wire brown /black stripe and a single plug in.

On the vacuum test just check it at idle and then speed up to a good fast idle.


Yes on wire if single wire brown /black stripe and a single plug in.

I got the vac test done. I'm only around 15-17 lbs. I know that's not right. Does this mean a leak or stoppage?? Where should I look?

I got the vac test done. I'm only around 15-17 lbs. I know that's not right. Does this mean a leak or stoppage?? Where should I look?

Need reading at idle and speeded up.
Does needle hold steady or flicker?

Need reading at idle and speeded up.
Does needle hold steady or flicker?

That is the pressure at idle and sped up. And it holds steady. One thing to add. Occasionally, when I start my car, cold or warm, it dip down multiple times as if I'm running out of gas. I have no idea what is causing this. I have gas. The fuel pump is new less than a year ago. I know I can't completely rule it out, but I don't want to mess with it again. Anyway, vac pressure is less than normal.

That is the pressure at idle and sped up. And it holds steady. One thing to add. Occasionally, when I start my car, cold or warm, it dip down multiple times as if I'm running out of gas. I have no idea what is causing this. I have gas. The fuel pump is new less than a year ago. I know I can't completely rule it out, but I don't want to mess with it again. Anyway, vac pressure is less than normal.

Low vacuum is late timing or egr valve open.
If you are unsure about run a complete fuel pressure test.
Good luck

Low vacuum is late timing or egr valve open.
If you are unsure about run a complete fuel pressure test.
Good luck

Yes, I am convinced that I have some late timing, but like I said, either way I turn the distributor, the timing retards. Do I just need to start from scratch with finding TDC set the timing from there?? Something isn't right.

Yes, I am convinced that I have some late timing, but like I said, either way I turn the distributor, the timing retards. Do I just need to start from scratch with finding TDC set the timing from there?? Something isn't right.

That is not right.
Should advance one way and retard the other.
Does it have EST timing control.
Disable EST and see what the timing adjustment does.

That is not right.
Should advance one way and retard the other.
Does it have EST timing control.
Disable EST and see what the timing adjustment does.

I will do that. Looked at codes again. 42 and 45. EST and O2. Going to look into that.

Just to clarify, the EST module is the square black box on the firewall, correct?

On the ones I have seen the EST connector is a tan with black stripe wire inside the cab under the glove box, under the carpet, on the pass side. Should have a black connector. It will be a single wire ran along side a thicker bundle. This is on the "W" engine.

On the ones I have seen the EST connector is a tan with black stripe wire inside the cab under the glove box, under the carpet, on the pass side. Should have a black connector. It will be a single wire ran along side a thicker bundle.

If that's the case then, I have done that already. I always set the timing with that unplugged. Still no good.