Chopper 300

Hi!
Sorry for starting another WIP instead of finishing some of my ongoing ones. But there's a 9 months old in the house and I'm lucky if I get 15 minutes of modeling 3-4 times per week. I need something inspiring and as I usually build MotoGP bikes this build will be a free spirit build, using photos as inspiration more than as references.

I start out with the Aces wild RM Chopper from Revell. A pretty basic kit. I will try and kick it up a few notches. That process will include (larger modifications);

A 300 mm rear wheel (25 mm in scale) with a new swingarm

A wider tank

Secondary belt drive

Scratched suspension

First let's take a look at the kit frame;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/frameswing.jpg

This bike has a Softail frame with a sort of cradle swing arm that pivots in the mid section of the rear end frame. The Softail has a progressive suspension that is located in the bottom of the frame. The swing has to be reworked to house this;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/resin_rearwheelside.jpg

This is a resin wheel from http://www.minitunning.com . Some more images.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/resin_reartyre.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/resin_rearwheeltilt.jpg

The rim consists of three parts, two outer rim halves and a star like spoke disc;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/resin_rearrimbparts.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/resin_rearwheelarch.jpg

The kit frame/swing has the swing pivot molded in. I've started by cutting off the rearmost end of the swing and sand the Softail details off the main frame. I then made templates off the inner frame sides and transferred those to 2*0.15 plasticard strips.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/scratch_masking.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/scratch_sidesections.jpg

The plasticard was taped to the frame and some rectangular plastruct pieces was glued inbetween;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/scratch_cradle_2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/scratch_cradle.jpg

I'm now sketching up the next pieces. They will have to wait a bit until I know the width of the rear wheel and drive train.

In the meantime, off to the tank. To go with the wider rear end I was thinking a wider tank. The kit comes with two traditional, narrow, chopper tanks. I cut one in half and started adding plasticard strips between the pieces;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/tank_sheet.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/tank_sheet2.jpg

I added in the frame attachment line on a base of epoxy putty and started filling the gaps with putty;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/tank_underside.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/tank_putty.jpg

Then it was just sanding/putty/sanding/putty/sanding/putty/sanding/putty/sanding/putty/sanding......and a bit of putty and sanding until I got to this;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/tank_sanded.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/tank_sandedunderside.jpg

Here's a pic to compare the starting point with the "finished" wide tank.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/tank_compared.jpg

This is the first couple of trembling steps on to a, hopefully, interesting and fun build. As I said in the first sentences, it's great to do something "free hand" instead of a replica for a change. And what is more free hand than a chopper, huh??

More to come.

best regards
Joel

Nice start.!! Gotta tell ya I love the FAT tire Great Rim also..Great idea on the tank mod..!!!I'll stay tuned for this one!!!

Nice build, thats more like me, free spirit builds, no pressure, desicions over the going, I guess you have to modify the rear fender as well, are you going to scratch the seat or to use the original?

Good start on the bike! Thank you for showing the tire and rim pieces because I was wondering how they look in higher resolution.


Great idea on the build,
Mark

showing the tire and rim pieces because I was wondering how they look in higher resolution.


The molds aren't totally crisp and there's a lot of flash on some of the parts. Over all though, I think they fill a gap in bike modeling and I'm glad I got them.


I guess you have to modify the rear fender as well, are you going to scratch the seat or to use the original?

Among the parts I got from Minitunning was a 300 fender. I will use this as a base but modify it.

Thanks for looking
/Joel

Hey Joel, nice start on the bike. I've ordered the same wheels and fender . I'll be watching this thread.

Nice work so far. It's good to see you build a "free spirit build" as you say, as a break form the normal. Looking forward to seeing how this goes.

The start looks promising. I have the same kit started and wanted to modify the frame to look like a real softail. So I will watch your updates closely.

Do I have a reader that knows some basic chopper electronics? I need to wire this baby up and as there are quite few parts (compared to a GP bike) I'd like to get it right. If I do a schematic sketch would someone care to enlighten me what is to go where?

/Joel

Nice start, will look forward to seeing more progress

Do I have a reader that knows some basic chopper electronics? I need to wire this baby up and as there are quite few parts (compared to a GP bike) I'd like to get it right. If I do a schematic sketch would someone care to enlighten me what is to go where?

/Joel

Hi Joel,

I found some schemes on google images, by searching chopper wiring.

http://www.rattlers.co.nz/wiringT.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/southernfriedchoppers/tech/wiring3.jpg?t=1242763139
http://www.bigbobtrike.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/simplewiring.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/sgp9/wiringDiagram.gif
http://www.chopperkitsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/759d7222f1335d3.jpg
http://www.650motorcycles.com/79PointsSchematic.jpg


Hope it helps a bit.

Bye!!!!

Edit: Oh I found a scheme for a CB750 http://www.hondachopper.com/garage.html would be awesome to find one of those Motogp bikes..

Great work, I have little ones in my house also, so I feel your pain! I haven't yet even posted photo's!

Nice project start Joel. Are you not tempted to cast the new tank - just in case you get the chopper bug?!:wink:

Thanks for the links Roca, I'll have a look at them.

I've definately had the thought John, but I have no stuff what so ever to try casting. The idea still lives though.
/Joel

Why aren´t the easy projects easy in the end? I´ve come to the conclusion that the rims need a lot more attention than I first thought. A lot of small crannies everywhere. I decided to sand the outer rimb of the rear rim off just because it wasn't possible to sand out. I added some grey microfiller primer and it still doesn't look good. I have to put down a few more rounds of putty.

I tried the Zero "Rubber black" on the rear tyre, looks promising. I'll have a few pictures ready in a few hours.

Next question is the paint scheme... I will need some help with that for sure. I'll be back.

/Joel

Boys and girls, do test fit! After an hour of sanding and priming the fromt rim I picked out the tyre from the Revell box to see how it looked on the Minitunning rim. The rim is a good 3-4 mm to narrow wich gives the tyre a bump. I've mailed Flavio to see what to do. I guess the RM kits uses the same tyres don't they?

Last way out would be to cut the tyre off and shorten it a bit. Or see if some of my other street bike kits offer a smaller diameter tyre. But I wonder how it will look with a high speed Hayabusa tyre on a shopper...
/Joel

I guess it's best to show some images to get the comments flowing.

I've struggled to even out the rear rim. Got closer and closer to a state that is good enough. Rear tyre is, as mentioned above, painted with Zero "Rubber black". Pattern has to be touched up with some flat black.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/rearwheelprimed.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/rearwheelprimedside.jpg

I need some opinions on the choice of color. My intention is to paint the tank, oil tank and fender Lamborghini color Arancio Borealis and add some black details to that. So, what color/s would be nice on the rims?? I'm leaning towards metallic grey on the outer parts and silver on the spokes... What do You say?

Another thing that's setting this build back is that a 300 mm rear tyre means the drive train has to go on the right. I was thinking of making a second belt drive as I see these on most ref pics when it comes to wide tyre bikes. But there is a lot of work to be invested in such a project and I'm therefor thinking of using the kit chain. As I'm modifying the swing there is a chance that it won't fit but I'll give it a go.

I so far modyfied it by drilling out the hollow parts.

In my teens I was amazed with the Honda NR bikes, using oval pistons. Have a look at Revell taking engineering a step further trying an oval....front sprocket...?!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/chaindrilled1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/chaindrilled.jpg

I think finishing the swing is next.

/Joel

Maybe the oval sprocket is how they get that distinct sound?! haha. I like choppers with 'old-skool' primer/bare metal look, although with those rims, maybe something super bright candy.

Coming really nice Joel,

The work on that tyre/rim is worth it. You have done a great job.

As for the colors schemes.. I always have a headaches when I try to make a combination of colours.. first I like one scheme.. then I like other.. very hard to decide but in my oppinion checking in google images would help to get a few references and then put them together to the chopper.

Keep working!

Roca.

If I may suggest about the rims, I think that if you gloss black enamel, then paint them with Alclad chrome it they may come out better and make them look smoother than they really are.


As far as paint job for the body, the wilder the better. Nearly everyone likes flames, second choice would be scallops. You could use a the colors found in Repsol Honda paint jobs as those look bright and can really grab the eye. Or like like the other guy said start doing Google searches until you find something you like.


Thanks for the detailed reports on the wheels,
TW

Thanks for your comments and input guys. I guess most bikes just have aluminum or chrome wheels but I think I want a rather heavy impression to sort of lower the bike. I was planning on lowering the ride height but the softail puts a stop to that.

I will sketch on a few options and tell you what I decide.

Yesterday I bent the tubes for the softail swing. Will be troublesome to fix them at the right angle...

/Joel

Told you earlier that I got the matching fender to go with the wide tyre. This is how it looks,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/fenderoriginal.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/fenderoriginalside.jpg

I'll have to try my luck and see if the resin stands some sawing but this is what I want to do with it,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/fenderguide.jpg

Did some mock ups to see what I'm facing. Never mind the original front rim... A lot of stuff is missing and I have some re-building plans for the forks, seat, belt drive housing and some other minor stuff. My vision is also to wire it up as much as possible

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/mockupleft.jpg

Softail cradle got company by the arms made out of 3 mm Tamiya styrene rod. Heated over a candle and bent after a sketch. I have worked with Plastruct rod before but must say that the Tamiya rod stayed flexible for a longer period after heating.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/mockupswing.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/mockupswingclose.jpg

Hope you are enjoying half as much as I do...
/Joel

Hi Joel,

looking good so far.

About the colours, I like the old school colours like the harley green (kaki) with some black. Maybe some pin striping also.

http://image.baggersmag.com/f/9691915/0601_hrbp_08_z+vintage_motorcycle_rally_el_camino+ green_harley_davidson_left_side.jpg


Looking at the pictures, I find the gastank sitting a bit to low. I would place it a bit more to the neck but that's my opinion.


So that's my input.

Have fun building.

You are right Ketje, it's sitting too low but it is because I haven't drilled holes in the tank to fit the mounting pins on the frame. It will go further up the neck when installed properly.

/Joel

Joel, there is an answer to the chain and rear wheel issue!:naughty:

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb224/cinqster-photo/hubless.jpg

:lol2: Only trouble is it requires three sets of P/E chain :evillol:

/Joel

:lol2: Only trouble is it requires three sets of P/E chain :evillol:

/Joel

LOL! You could belt drive it! I think Plastruct (possibly K&S) make a ribbed plastic sheet that could do it - failing that I've seen some good notched belts in old printers ect.:cool:

Maybe one for another project?:evillol:

What would be really cool is the old leather drive belt idea made from sections of leather riveted together. You could make the belt pieces from 1.5mmx1.5mmx5mm plastic sheet and rivet them with pin heads! Now I've never seen that on a modern chop!

Now my juices are flowing! haha. I haven't really put the belt drive aside yet. First of all the chain might be too short as the rear wheel is moved a few mm back. Second, it would be cool, wouldn't it?? I've never heard of the ribbed plastic sheet that you mention but I think the belt itself would be pretty easy to create. My toughest question, and what's actually stopping me is how to get the belt installed as it has to go through the swing. I could glue it on the clutch pulley wich will later be covered. But I'm not shure it will hold. Always hard to glue something that has to be tightened at the same time to hold its shape.

Any ideas are welcome
/Joel

This may have been the stuff I was thinking off:

http://tinyurl.com/n8n39q

but I think it's too big for 1/12th scale. However, if you made up something similar with the correct spaced/sized notches you could cast a rubber belt form it using molding latex. I've been told you can dye it black for tyres etc.

Just a thought!:wink:

Taking shape Joel, you done a nice job on the frame. I should try something different apart from the Motogp bikes... :lol:

Roca.

if you made up something similar with the correct spaced/sized notches you could cast a rubber belt form it using molding latex. I've been told you can dye it black for tyres etc.

Just a thought!:wink:

As said, I don't dare go in to casting, never know ehere it leads me... But I have gotten so tempted bout the idea of belt drive that I'm going to try something. I'll be back on that issue. Thanks for the inspiration John.

/Joel

Don't know if I ever mentioned this, but I hate molded in stuff. The more pieces the better. It helps in the painting process and of course it looks more realistic. Hate is a strong word, there are of course degrees even in hell... BUt if there is something about molded in stuff that i particulary dislike it is molded in hoses....WHY do they do that...?

On this particular model it is the oil filter hose that bothers me. I was thinking I'd better remove it and suddenly it all looked like this...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/oilfilterremoving.jpg

So, not just the hose, but the hole filter...yes, why not go all the way now that I admitted that it will not be a simple build.

Cleaned up a bit it looked like this, just need to fill the hole that was behind the filter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/oilfilterremoved2.jpg

As I'm learning more and more about choppers I'm finding a lot of cool features. I think I'll move the filter somewhere else, and make it a bit more fun than stock.

Another thing is the battery, that is put into the oil tank. I will fill the gap in the tank and move the battery somewhere else as well. Thought of using the battery from the Ducati 916 when I saw it in M.Boys fantastic WIP. But having another look it is a bit narrow. I´ll scratch something from the original top part...

/Joel

As I seem to be working on the whole bike at the same time I thought it would be best to take some time looking over the forks. The forks are pretty ugly with large pieces of plastic to hold the front fender and wheel. These parts will be a later problem to deal with, as for now I want to cut the slidig parts to ease painting. These run from the fork bottoms and all the way up through the tri clamp. You can see how it looks in an earlier picture. I cut the part at the bottom leg and at the triclamp, I also cut away the parts that is situated in between the higher and lower clamps. I then drilled a .5 mm hole as a guide and finally used a 3 mm drill. The original slides are 3.5 mm, I'll see if I go that big or stay at 3 mm.

This is how it looks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/triclampdrilled.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/forkdrilled.jpg

Best regards
Joel

Good progress Joel!

A hard work to fit/improve all those pieces. Coming really nice.

Keep on working

Roca.

I was studying the engine this evening and what did I find if not another little gem, the Revell interpretation of the oil cooler. With, molded in..., lines to the oil pump. The first marked with black arrow and the latter with blue. As you all already guessed, this piece of junk need to go. I'll be back with the result.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/oilcoolerorig.jpg

/Joel

Bike forum doesn't seem too crowded these days, too sunny to be stuck in front of the computer perhaps. Or are you too busy modelling?

Some more updates to the Chopper 300 build. Oil cooler was removed without any bigger hazzle, will scratch a new one and perhaps relocate it.

I have started the work on the rear softail damper. It is a progressive damper located underneith the transmission. For you that doesn't remember the kit plastic bump looks like this,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/damperorg.jpg

I split the parts up...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/damperpieces.jpg

and I'm going to re-use the brackets. I drilled a whole in the center frame piece

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/dampermountdrilled.jpg

and installed a piece of brass rod (it will be cut to correct length later)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/dampermount.jpg

In the swing cradle I cut a whole using micro drills to fit the mounting piece cut off earlier. I then drilled a whole through that piece too to fit the same type of brass rod.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/cradlehole.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/cradle.jpg

All brackets where drilled and will be glued to two dimensions of tube when I get my hands on them from the hardware store. For now you will have to settle with a mock up using the original damper pieces.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/dampercradle.jpg

Installed in the frame

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/framedampermockup.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/framedampermockup2.jpg

Tank and oil tank has been sanded out and looks like this,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/tankssanded.jpg

Two questions has emerged.

1. I need tips on how to make some weld seams on the oil tank edges and on the bottom of the gas tank.

2. I need your opinion on this gas tank lid. I got it years ago from Detail and design in scale (Where are you Dave??) but never used it cause the label sais 1/9th scale. But here it seems to fit doesn't it? Give me your onest opinion please.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/tanklidtest.jpg

Best regards
Joel

great progress. the gas lid might look better in the center of the tank. is that white metal? needs a a good polishing.

What a brilliant progress!! I love to see all those pieces put together you're doing it really well Joel!

As for your questions:

1- I use a product which is simmilar to any putty with a fine nozzle to allow to make thin welds. On the other hand you may use Tamiya putty with a thin stick or Tamiya epoxy putty, put it to the bike and then give to the putty the shape of a weld.

2- I really like the tank lid!! But as rollin80s said I think it may look better on the center.

Roca.

Edit** I think that on the thread of my KR you will find what I explain about the welds anyway I will search it for you.

Edit Nº2*** I forgot that I done a cleanup to my FTP and I deleted those pictures, don't worry I will take new ones this weekend. I will post them here if you want.

Hi Joel,

Here is what I use for the welds. I prefer the putty tube (blue) than the other tube.

http://www.rocascalemotorcycles.com/Varios/weld1.jpg

http://www.rocascalemotorcycles.com/Varios/weld2.jpg

Also you can use a small stick
http://www.rocascalemotorcycles.com/Varios/weld3.jpg


You may try to do it with Tamiya putty.

Roca.

Many thanks for that how-to Roca, I will try it out soon. Thanks again for taking your time.
I'm starting to think the lid is a tad bit too large after all... Moving it to the center will rule out another feature I had in mind. Perhaps I'll just go with a small screw on cap made of styrene, or why not a lid from a streetbike high end street bike...

And to you Rollin80, yes it is white metal and as I hate white metal almost as much as molded in hoses it will not be polished but painted.
/Joel

Got some goodies from Mediamix today, stuff that will go into this build are,

* Braided line
* Fittings for above
* Tachometer

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/mediamix.jpg

/Joel

Started re-working the transmission today. As the build includes a 300 mm rear tyre (in scale...) I've learnt that you use a right side secondary drive to get the weight balance right. Here is an example, the Baker 300:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/bakerorig.jpg

As the kit provides a small tranny that almost doesn't reach the middle of the frame, there is time for some serious scratching. Here is what I start with:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/trannyorig.jpg

I used masking tape to cut a guide from the original;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/trannyguide.jpg

And started cutting from 3 mm styrene. Each layer was added to the original using superglue. Here with 2 layers added;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/trannytwo.jpg

To get the tranny lined up with the frame it took five pieces of styrene;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/trannyfive.jpg

from this I will sand it down to follow the original shape and then scratch a cover for the right side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/trannymockup.jpg

I don't know what to do with the left side though. As the kit has a left side secondary drive train the inner pulley cover has an indention where the chain is to hook up on the transmission. As the kit has a thinner rear tyre the chain goes on the inside of the frame moving the transmission further to the right. On a real bike using a wide rear tyre this indention wouldn't be there and the transmission would be quite a bit more to the left. I think it will inolve too much work to fix this so I'm thinking I'll just fill it up and hope it doesn't look too bad.

/Joel

Two questions has emerged.

1. I need tips on how to make some weld seams on the oil tank edges and on the bottom of the gas tank.

2. I need your opinion on this gas tank lid. I got it years ago from Detail and design in scale (Where are you Dave??) but never used it cause the label sais 1/9th scale. But here it seems to fit doesn't it? Give me your onest opinion please.


Best regards
Joel

Hey Joel, looking good so far.

I use plastic sprue to make the seld seams. It's the same technique some of our tank modellers use.

First heat some plastic sprue and stretch it to the needed thickness.
Then you glue it in place using some Tamiya or Humbrol glue.
Afterwards you use some of the Tamiya or Humbrol glue to smear on the whole piece of sprue you put on your model. This will soften the plastic sprue. When it is soften enough you can use a toothpick or something else to push in the welds.
I find this the easiest way and it looks good at the end.

Have fun and let me know if you like the technique.


By the way, I like the gas tank lid. It's looks great on the gastank.

Great progress on that scratch work! Nice parts you bought from Mediamix :iceslolan. It's very hard to make those scratch parts but I'm sure you're enjoying with that :rofl:


Hey Joel, looking good so far.

I use plastic sprue to make the seld seams. It's the same technique some of our tank modellers use.

First heat some plastic sprue and stretch it to the needed thickness.
Then you glue it in place using some Tamiya or Humbrol glue.
Afterwards you use some of the Tamiya or Humbrol glue to smear on the whole piece of sprue you put on your model. This will soften the plastic sprue. When it is soften enough you can use a toothpick or something else to push in the welds.
I find this the easiest way and it looks good at the end.

Have fun and let me know if you like the technique.


By the way, I like the gas tank lid. It's looks great on the gastank.

Nice tip ketje! I will take note. Thank's!!

Roca.

I FINALLY got some metal rod in the mail today. I've been looking in every hardware store I know around here and on most modeling sites on the web (local that is) to find the right dimensions. Now I can move on with this project.

I've also decided to go with belt drive as secondary, some scratching will be needed of course and I started the rear pulley by cutting the spokes off the kit chain and install them into a piece of round plastic tube. Photos are comming. I'm thinking on how I can build a housing for the front pulley but that can wait a bit more.

/Joel

Here's some pictures of the rear pulley as described above. As you can see it needs a bit of attention before painting. The kit sprocket that I used was drilled out and that has to be sanded. There is also a minor gap between the sprocket part and the outer ring that has to be filled. When that is done I'll add an inner rimb.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/rearpulley.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/rearpulley2.jpg

I don't know if I've shown the reworked rear fender? I cut the bigg ass mother F to get a really narrow, arrowstyle, fender. It is not cut in perfect shape and I also found that the resin was thicker in the rearmost section. I corrected that with my Dreml and will continue to work on this piece. Sorry for the out of focus image...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/rearfenderunsanded.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/rearfendersanded.jpg

Here is the state of the transmission. The front pulley for the secondary drive will be situated on the nearmost short end. I think it will look good with a housing for it but really don't know how to scratch it as it has to be possible to add after the pulley is installed. I'm thinking of putting parts of styrene sheet on top of the now existing piece and then glue them together in some way. I then have to drill holes in every sheet and down in the transmission block where I can install rivets to hold the housing in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/transmission.jpg

Give me your thoughts

Instead of doing some serious work on the Marlboro bikes I took this little sucker out for a little bare knuckle fighting.

What has stalled me recently has been the thought of scratch building a housing for the secondary drive. I'm pretty lousy when it comes to scratchbuilding if it has to include cutting plastic. I can't cut straight. I guess I just don't have the right tools nor the talent. My idea though is pretty basic.

I cut small stripes of plasticard and temporarily fitted them around the transmission using krystal klear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/beltdrivehousing.jpg

I added some putty to hold them together and used some glue from the inside. I then glued the original transmission end on top of the plasticard strips.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/beltdrivehousing2.jpg

My idea is to gently remove the strips from the transmission and make some reinforcements on the inside. Then I'll have to try and get some shape to that fragile construction.

Now that I have shown what my intentions are I very much welcome alternate approaches to achieve the same thing. Fire away.

/Joel

This kit is pretty fun!
We're still to see where it ends but all these little alterations is really inspiring. Just as it is intended.

As the transmission housing is drying I puttied up some more stuff. The kit primary drive is but ugly and will be replaced by resin parts from Minitunning.com

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/primarycomparison.jpg

The belt looks a bit short so perhaps I'll replace that with some other material. In the original kit they use a primary cover to cover up the non detail pulleys.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/kitprimary.jpg

I'm not going to include that part as I want the Minitunning pulleys to be visible. I'm thinking of putting a guard on top of the puelleys instead. Original primary base looks like this, with a rounded edge in the front.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/primaryplate.jpg

I put some putty on to even that curve out. I will cut a plate out from Plasticard and glue it to the plate.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/primaryplateputtied.jpg

The swing ends, where the wheel axle will go got some putty as well. I'm not yet sure about how to fix the axle but it will come to me.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/swingputtied.jpg

What else. I've drilled holes in the tank underside to fit the pins in the frame. This is a pic of a test fit with tank, seat and engine. Engine is a bit high due to some masking tape undernieth but you get the idea. Snug fit between engine and frame.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/testfittankseat.jpg

/J

Recently, I have found doing custom bikes is a bit more relaxing than trying to make a replica of an original bike. I like all the effort you are going through to make this Revell kit more interesting!

Mark

Thanks Mark. I totally agree. I'm much more relaxed working on this bike than on my GP builds. Same when I did my custom R1 build (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=520461). Artistic freedom is the sh*t obviously.
/Joel

I continue to work on every piece of the bike at the same time. Most parts need some conciderations regarding how they will go together with other pieces so I do a little here and a little there.

As you maybe remember I cut off most of the resin rear fender. I want a tougher look, a bit more aggressive. As I didn't want to brake the fragile resin I cut it pretty straight instead of working on the final shape. To make it fit better in the swing I've now glued a bit of styrene sheet on. I will level it out with putty and start working on the shape.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/fenderglued.jpg

Over the primary drive I want some cover. Not necessary but it will go with the overall look of the bike. I drilled some vent holes in a piece of styrene and glued it in place. Unfortunately I used a type of glue that reacted with the putty applied earlier and the shape didn't come out totally straight, but I'll live with it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/beltguard2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/beltguard.jpg

/Joel

The story continues,
Transmission is what bothers me most right now. I can't do the right side drive housing justice. I'll try and explain better. For the wide tyre bikes the secondary drive (belt or chain that goes from the transmission to the rear wheel) is better localized on the right side. This is to pivot the weight of the bike in the center and not to the left wich is the case if you put both primary and secondary drives on the left.

This is a pic of a right side secondary drive transmission;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/rightsidetrans.jpg

As I had to make the transmission wider (to go outside the frame) it looks kind of dull without a housing for the belt pulley. I also thought that a housing could hide the point where I put the belt together. This is where I am now. My idea is to fasten the housing using rivets.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/transmission_testfit.jpg

Since that pic was taken I have also added some cooling fins to the transmission .

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/transmission_cooling.jpg

I'm sanding my finger prints off trying to cope with the tank issue. There is so many layers of putty that every time I take care of some puttied up irregularity I sand some other up. Take a look at this pic and it shows a lot of small small holes. I don't know how to fix it. Perhaps I shall prime the tank once again to make the new putty layers stick better? You can also see a bracket that I added to the right side. This plate will work as a strengthening plate for a meter mount.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/meterplate.jpg

/Joel

Tank underside, I tried to make some weld seems.

A thin grave was scribed along the edge, not easy due to the mix of materials. I then glued in a .5 mm styrene strip and made indentions in the strip using a heated knife. Last I levelled the strip out a bit using abrasive paper.

In the top right, I drilled a hole and inserted a .8 mm styrene rod to fit the gas tubing later on.

The piece has to primed so I can see if the the welds look aweful or not...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/tank_underside2.jpg

Hi Joël, keep up the good work.

I always use a mixture of CA glue and baby powder to fill holes like that. Just mix these two items and fill the gaps. After about 5-10 minutes you can sand this without a problem. The main advantages of this mixture is that you can sand it after some minutes and it doesn't shrink.
You can also use just the glue but with some baby powder in it , it will be easier to sand .
Works all the time for me.

Have fun.

Still working on the basic shaping of the different parts. Most scratchparts have now been washed to be ready for primer. There are definately irregularities left but I need a primer coat to spot all.

Today I just made an adjustment to the swing. As I'm not going for a fender as in mud guard I need to protect the engine parts from dust/mud?/road residue in some other way. On choppers this is mostly done by inserting a plate in front of the wheel. As you can see in this cad image they made the swing to have such plate built in, I've seen others where there has been a aluminum sheet instead.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/frame.jpg

I first though of painting a sheet in a color that differed from the frame parts but I finally installed a plasticard square and glued it in place. It will be painted together with the swing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/swingplate.jpg

/J

How about this!? If I wasn't so far into this build I would have ordered one emediately. Found it on e-bay, it's from Jerrys Resin who also carry some spring forks for the revell chopper!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/joelwideqvist/chopper/jerrysresinblower.jpg

/Joel

Joel
you make scrachbuilds even better then original parts, incredible, good job.

Fantastic progress here.
I think you're enjoying to work with the fingers, making adjustments and new parts...
I really like this project and I'm looking to see more updates soon.

I'm sanding my finger prints off trying to cope with the tank issue. There is so many layers of putty that every time I take care of some puttied up irregularity I sand some other up. Take a look at this pic and it shows a lot of small small holes. I don't know how to fix it. Perhaps I shall prime the tank once again to make the new putty layers stick better? You can also see a bracket that I added to the right side. This plate will work as a strengthening plate for a meter mount.

What I do when I have this problem is to mix Tamiya's putty with acetone in order to dilute the putty to apply over the area with a brush.

Hope this helps.

Roca.

Thanks Roca! I really do like scratch building although I don't have enough material to do serious stuff and I'm real bad at cutting plastic at the right angle...

I'll try the delution trick with my putty and see if it gets any better.
/Joel

Thanks Roca! I really do like scratch building although I don't have enough material to do serious stuff and I'm real bad at cutting plastic at the right angle...

I'll try the delution trick with my putty and see if it gets any better.
/Joel

I forgot to mention, of course you will have to sand it with sandpaper, under water, with special paper to work with water and with a very smooth movement like doing circles.

Roca.