comp cams gt2

im having some trouble with my 03 gt 3.8 n/a but when i fix it (this week) i want to rebuild the top end (next month) . i was thinking about the gt2 cam and push rods from comp cams, with the ER ratio rockers, valves and the install kit from zzp. i wanted to know what springs to use (heard stock are best) and will i need new retainers, locks and seals. any feed back on the parts is greatly appreciated.
ps can you also plese tell me what the hours are on this job. ive only done mid 90's mazda b2600 2.4s before.

The cam in the 3800 is going to be more in depth than the mazda OHC. It is quite a job.(upper intake, Lower intake, timing cover, timing chain, valve covers, rocker arms, push rods) Bob, cant the cam come out the wheel well if the motor is dropped down a little? I've never done one on a 3800.

Before you purchase any high ratio rockers, you better make sure they work with your camshaft.

The LS1 Springs are recommended with aftermarket high ratio rockers, but I'm not sure with camshafts.

ya i talked to a friend said he had to drop the engine. his words were it sucked moose balls. told me not to go with the ls1 springs on the n/a said there to stiff. good thing is he has a lift and works for beer.

see what others say about the springs. I dont know how they can be too stiff for the 3800NA but not too stiff for the 3800SC. I do know that if not installed, sometimes you will get a high RPM missfire due to "valve float".

ya ive been hearing mixxed stuff. comp cams said they would email me the F-A-Q's hahaha thanks for the input and blake i got a gtp engine im thinkin bout swappin whats the best bang for buck mods on it i got a k/n high flow filter, pulleys stock.

If you have the time/patience/ability/$$$$/ and room, If I were you (I'd be in my glory), but I'd probably pull the L67 from the donor, throw in a cam, probably change all the gaskets (including oil pan), maybe look into some ported heads and LIM and headers, then swap in the L67, throw in some colder plugs and stat, get a PCM flashed, and probably throw on a smaller pulley.

My personal advice is to drop the cradle and do this job out of the car.

Yep you can probably use a holesaw and get the cam out somehow (just kidding...where there's a will there's a way) but the odds of getting things cleaned back up nicely so you can get the front cover, etc sealed up and right is getting lower and lower in my opinion.

The stock valve springs will go 400 hrs at max rpms without breakage, they won't float up to or at the trans shift points with a stock system. Not sure what you're going to get into with a larger rocker ratio (if I understood that) as the dynamics are going to change. Stiffer springs fix dynamics/bounce problems...at the cost of cam wear and the seat life in the cylinder head. More radical cam ramps are also more prone to launch the valve clear of control of the rocker arm (not kidding here...this is what causes valve-bounce) which require the stiffer springs to maintain mechanical contact (or "control"). Also some cam profiles screw with MAF sensing and cause poor idle...depends what you want to get into. Some people like this lumpy idle....for about the first 15 minutes :D.

If it were me? Just get a GTP and do some high-mile maintenance. I think you'll be a lot of money and time ahead.

He has a GTP that was totaled. It has a healthy L67. Thats why he's asking about doing to swap.

I think he better research on the camshaft on whether or not it requires stronger springs. Plus I'd be willing to bet if he's going to cam it, that he'd probable do more mods upto and including a PCM flash which (because of the cam) could have higher shift points. Which is why he should look into the springs as well. Better off doing it right the first time around.

Cause you know what they say... "If its worth doing, its worth doing over" HA!