Help me buid up a 350
CamaroAdam73
02-20-2009, 12:14 AM
Right now i've got a basic 350, the bottom end is brand new, the block is a dart m-series small block, but the top end was salvaged from another 350. It's got the stock setup top-end wise, quadrashit carb, stock heads, intake..ext.
Pretty much i'm trying to be as cost effective as i can, i was thinking maybe some vortec heads, My only must have is a hydrolic roller cam, i was thinking about getting a comp cams Xtreme energy cam, I was going to go with a Weiand Ram air intake manifold and a Demon 600 Blow through, my overall goal is to eventually turbocharge this engine, Any idea's?
Pretty much i'm trying to be as cost effective as i can, i was thinking maybe some vortec heads, My only must have is a hydrolic roller cam, i was thinking about getting a comp cams Xtreme energy cam, I was going to go with a Weiand Ram air intake manifold and a Demon 600 Blow through, my overall goal is to eventually turbocharge this engine, Any idea's?
manicmechanix
02-20-2009, 06:53 AM
Right now i've got a basic 350, the bottom end is brand new, the block is a dart m-series small block, but the top end was salvaged from another 350. It's got the stock setup top-end wise, quadrashit carb, stock heads, intake..ext.
Pretty much i'm trying to be as cost effective as i can, i was thinking maybe some vortec heads, My only must have is a hydrolic roller cam, i was thinking about getting a comp cams Xtreme energy cam, I was going to go with a Weiand Ram air intake manifold and a Demon 600 Blow through, my overall goal is to eventually turbocharge this engine, Any idea's?
I think the Vortech heads are great for the price, but I'm not sure if they'd work with that cam's lift because the stock valve guides are too long. Plus the compression would be too high for boosting unless you have low compression pistons. If you're going to run the roller cam you probably would be ahead with one of the aftermarket aluminum heads. I know that's not going to be a cheap set up.
I know you said you wanted to maybe boost it in the future, but I would suggest using a good dual plane manifold and a Edelbrock AVS 750 CFM. Also a set of 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 headers with dual ehaust. Then maybe you could consider adding a nitrous plate later.
The Quadrajet isn't that bad of a carb-more reliable than a Holley, and better drivability and gas mileage and accurate fuel curve than just about any other carb, but it is hard to tune it for a modified engine. I think the AVS gives or AFB gives you the best of all assuming this is going to be a street motor. Anyway, the stock upper end has to go if you're going to make any real power.
What I would do is go with the Vortechs and a flat tappet cam that's lift is compatible with it, and the intake/carb combo I mentioned. or if I wantd to spend more $, the roller cam and a set of AFR aluminum heads. That should put you close to 400 hp.
Pretty much i'm trying to be as cost effective as i can, i was thinking maybe some vortec heads, My only must have is a hydrolic roller cam, i was thinking about getting a comp cams Xtreme energy cam, I was going to go with a Weiand Ram air intake manifold and a Demon 600 Blow through, my overall goal is to eventually turbocharge this engine, Any idea's?
I think the Vortech heads are great for the price, but I'm not sure if they'd work with that cam's lift because the stock valve guides are too long. Plus the compression would be too high for boosting unless you have low compression pistons. If you're going to run the roller cam you probably would be ahead with one of the aftermarket aluminum heads. I know that's not going to be a cheap set up.
I know you said you wanted to maybe boost it in the future, but I would suggest using a good dual plane manifold and a Edelbrock AVS 750 CFM. Also a set of 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 headers with dual ehaust. Then maybe you could consider adding a nitrous plate later.
The Quadrajet isn't that bad of a carb-more reliable than a Holley, and better drivability and gas mileage and accurate fuel curve than just about any other carb, but it is hard to tune it for a modified engine. I think the AVS gives or AFB gives you the best of all assuming this is going to be a street motor. Anyway, the stock upper end has to go if you're going to make any real power.
What I would do is go with the Vortechs and a flat tappet cam that's lift is compatible with it, and the intake/carb combo I mentioned. or if I wantd to spend more $, the roller cam and a set of AFR aluminum heads. That should put you close to 400 hp.
MrPbody
02-20-2009, 09:23 AM
Adam,
A "Little M"? And you're worried about budget? That is one of the best blocks known to man. I highly advise NOT building anything "on the cheap" that will attach to that block, lest you blow it up and ruin it. That doesn't mean you need the most expensive parts. It means you should buy the "correct" parts to accomplish your performance goals while staying at the same level as the base (block).
Is there a particular reason you MUST have a hydraulic roller? For a '73, I see no reason. Hydraulic rollers are better in a car with a "knock sensor", but aside from that, they are "passe". That is, we've moved on. Solid roller technology has progressed to the point where it's reliable in street applications, even "daily drivers". They are less expensive than hydraulics, have more cam profiles available, and make more power... And lastly, FAR more reliable than the aftermaket hydraulics. If you were to "fit" the factory hydraulic rollers, they are quite reliable.
Also, you will need to choose a cam for the N/A engine, and change it once you DO go to the turbo. A "turbo" cam will "work" (get the valves open and closed) in the N/A (normally aspirated) application, but would be far from optimum. The N/A cam would NOT work well with the turbo.
Cylinder head choices abound for the small block. The Vortec is a decent head, but Dart Iron Eagles are better, and most aluminum heads are better, yet. If you have one of the "good" factory castings, spend the money on upgrading them (hardware and port work). You'll be horsepower ahead... You would be amazed at what $1,500 worth of work to a pair of 441s can do!
Lastly, Q-Jet, when done properly, is among the best carbs on the planet. "Qaudra-Flood", "Quadra-Junk", etc. are signs that the guy trying to rebuild it is is clueless. Edelbrock carbs should be avoided except for show cars that aren't interested in real performance. We've seen nothing but tuning problems with them, outside the basic "stock" 350 Chevy approach. Holleys, especially those from specialty shops like AED, far out-perform all others when it comes to power production. There's one guy, Cliff Ruggles, in Mt. Vernon, Ohio, that can make a Q-Jet do "magic" on a "race" engine. He has customers with NHRA SS Pontiacs running in the low 9s (significant because the Pontiacs weren't available with the Holley like the Chevy performance engines were). That's supporting more than 650 horsepower with a stock-bodied Q-Jet.
Have you considered converting the 350 to a 383?
Jim
A "Little M"? And you're worried about budget? That is one of the best blocks known to man. I highly advise NOT building anything "on the cheap" that will attach to that block, lest you blow it up and ruin it. That doesn't mean you need the most expensive parts. It means you should buy the "correct" parts to accomplish your performance goals while staying at the same level as the base (block).
Is there a particular reason you MUST have a hydraulic roller? For a '73, I see no reason. Hydraulic rollers are better in a car with a "knock sensor", but aside from that, they are "passe". That is, we've moved on. Solid roller technology has progressed to the point where it's reliable in street applications, even "daily drivers". They are less expensive than hydraulics, have more cam profiles available, and make more power... And lastly, FAR more reliable than the aftermaket hydraulics. If you were to "fit" the factory hydraulic rollers, they are quite reliable.
Also, you will need to choose a cam for the N/A engine, and change it once you DO go to the turbo. A "turbo" cam will "work" (get the valves open and closed) in the N/A (normally aspirated) application, but would be far from optimum. The N/A cam would NOT work well with the turbo.
Cylinder head choices abound for the small block. The Vortec is a decent head, but Dart Iron Eagles are better, and most aluminum heads are better, yet. If you have one of the "good" factory castings, spend the money on upgrading them (hardware and port work). You'll be horsepower ahead... You would be amazed at what $1,500 worth of work to a pair of 441s can do!
Lastly, Q-Jet, when done properly, is among the best carbs on the planet. "Qaudra-Flood", "Quadra-Junk", etc. are signs that the guy trying to rebuild it is is clueless. Edelbrock carbs should be avoided except for show cars that aren't interested in real performance. We've seen nothing but tuning problems with them, outside the basic "stock" 350 Chevy approach. Holleys, especially those from specialty shops like AED, far out-perform all others when it comes to power production. There's one guy, Cliff Ruggles, in Mt. Vernon, Ohio, that can make a Q-Jet do "magic" on a "race" engine. He has customers with NHRA SS Pontiacs running in the low 9s (significant because the Pontiacs weren't available with the Holley like the Chevy performance engines were). That's supporting more than 650 horsepower with a stock-bodied Q-Jet.
Have you considered converting the 350 to a 383?
Jim
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