Front Fender Removal
tblake
02-16-2009, 10:14 PM
Hi Guys,
I have a door that is out of adjustment. It was slightly out when I bought the car, and I think years and years of slamming it made it more out of adjustment.
The hinges are good, I checked them, no play. Chiltons says to loosen 3 bolts on the hinge and one torx, then align the door, then torque the bolts back down.
Problem is in order to do this, the right front fender needs to come off. I was hoping to do this project tomorrow as my door is so far out of alignment that it rubs on the fender every time I open it.
So if anyone knows how to remove and install the drivers front fender without damaging it, I would appreciate it. (if someone chimes in with the right answer before I go to do the work tomorrow, I will make a tutorial on door adjustment for the tips and maintenance subforum. :naughty:)
Thanks guys!
I have a door that is out of adjustment. It was slightly out when I bought the car, and I think years and years of slamming it made it more out of adjustment.
The hinges are good, I checked them, no play. Chiltons says to loosen 3 bolts on the hinge and one torx, then align the door, then torque the bolts back down.
Problem is in order to do this, the right front fender needs to come off. I was hoping to do this project tomorrow as my door is so far out of alignment that it rubs on the fender every time I open it.
So if anyone knows how to remove and install the drivers front fender without damaging it, I would appreciate it. (if someone chimes in with the right answer before I go to do the work tomorrow, I will make a tutorial on door adjustment for the tips and maintenance subforum. :naughty:)
Thanks guys!
CrazyHorst
02-17-2009, 03:56 AM
If you remove the wheelhouse liner can you get at the necessary bolts without removing the fender?
Reason I ask this is it would be difficult for the body shop (original, OEM GM body shop) to fit the body with just the door alone and then have to add the fender later.
It seems like there might be a jacking bolt on one or both of the hinges that helps set fore-aft on the door. I've used combinations of washers and such on various vehicles to get doors to eliminate rubbing, etc. First step is conceptually where the door needs to go, which it sounds like rearward.
Reason I ask this is it would be difficult for the body shop (original, OEM GM body shop) to fit the body with just the door alone and then have to add the fender later.
It seems like there might be a jacking bolt on one or both of the hinges that helps set fore-aft on the door. I've used combinations of washers and such on various vehicles to get doors to eliminate rubbing, etc. First step is conceptually where the door needs to go, which it sounds like rearward.
BNaylor
02-17-2009, 08:41 AM
I don't believe the front fender has to be removed to do the door hinge alignment. The reason is you need the front fender as a reference and to make sure the fender to door air gap is correct plus so the door doesn't scrape against the fender when opening or closing the door.
To start all you need to do is remove the front fender inner plastic splash guard. The splash guard must be removed when doing the fore/aft adjustment. Then there are two adjustments to be made on the door upper and lower hinges door side and body side. Up/down or in/out adjustment and fore/aft adjustment. Also, you will need to use a torque wrench.
Up/down or in/out:
Loosen the 13mm door upper and lower hinge bolts.
Do not remove the bolts.
Adjust the door up or down by repositioning the door as needed.
Adjust the door in or out by repositioning the door as needed.
Tighten the 13mm door side hinge bolts.
Tighten 13mm door side upper and lower hinge bolts to 24 ft-lb.
NOTE: Make sure the upper and lower hinge bolts are tight enough to retain door adjusted position.
Fore/aft:
Loosen the 13mm body side upper and lower hinge bolts.
Do not remove the bolts.
Loosen the one 10mm con adjuster body side hinge bolt.
Do not remove the bolt.
Loosen the Torx body side upper and lower hinge bolts.
Do not remove the bolts.
Then adjust door fore and aft by repositioning the door as needed.
Tighten Torx body side upper and lower hinge bolts.
Tighten the Torx head body side hinge bolt to 89 in-lbs.
Tighten the 10mm cone adjuster body side hinge bolt.
Tighten the 10mm cone adjuster body side hinge bolt to 89 in-lb.
Tighten the 13mm body side hinge bolts.
Tighten the 13mm body side upper and lower hinge bolts to 24 ft-lbs.
Check door operation, latching and final alignment. Repeat above steps if necessary. Re-install the front fender inner splash guard.
BTW - It is easier said than done. :lol:
To start all you need to do is remove the front fender inner plastic splash guard. The splash guard must be removed when doing the fore/aft adjustment. Then there are two adjustments to be made on the door upper and lower hinges door side and body side. Up/down or in/out adjustment and fore/aft adjustment. Also, you will need to use a torque wrench.
Up/down or in/out:
Loosen the 13mm door upper and lower hinge bolts.
Do not remove the bolts.
Adjust the door up or down by repositioning the door as needed.
Adjust the door in or out by repositioning the door as needed.
Tighten the 13mm door side hinge bolts.
Tighten 13mm door side upper and lower hinge bolts to 24 ft-lb.
NOTE: Make sure the upper and lower hinge bolts are tight enough to retain door adjusted position.
Fore/aft:
Loosen the 13mm body side upper and lower hinge bolts.
Do not remove the bolts.
Loosen the one 10mm con adjuster body side hinge bolt.
Do not remove the bolt.
Loosen the Torx body side upper and lower hinge bolts.
Do not remove the bolts.
Then adjust door fore and aft by repositioning the door as needed.
Tighten Torx body side upper and lower hinge bolts.
Tighten the Torx head body side hinge bolt to 89 in-lbs.
Tighten the 10mm cone adjuster body side hinge bolt.
Tighten the 10mm cone adjuster body side hinge bolt to 89 in-lb.
Tighten the 13mm body side hinge bolts.
Tighten the 13mm body side upper and lower hinge bolts to 24 ft-lbs.
Check door operation, latching and final alignment. Repeat above steps if necessary. Re-install the front fender inner splash guard.
BTW - It is easier said than done. :lol:
tblake
02-17-2009, 10:42 AM
BTW - It is easier said than done. :lol:
Uh Oh
Thats pretty much what chilton said, Bob.
Thanks for the info! I will give it a shot.
My problem is the the rear of the door is lower than the front, thus when opening, the lower part of the door rubs.
I will give it a try and report back.
Thanks!
Uh Oh
Thats pretty much what chilton said, Bob.
Thanks for the info! I will give it a shot.
My problem is the the rear of the door is lower than the front, thus when opening, the lower part of the door rubs.
I will give it a try and report back.
Thanks!
richtazz
02-17-2009, 10:45 AM
It's all trial and error. Loosen, adjust, tighten, check, repeat, repeat, repeat. :icon16:
tblake
02-17-2009, 07:29 PM
Went good. Job finished sucessfully. Its still a little off, but not as bad, and ot doesn't rub anymore. Like you guys said, I was able to remove the plastic inner part of the fender, and access the bolts that way. I loosened them, had my assistant line up the door, and I tightened them back down. Looks better, no rubbing, and opens and closes smoother. Thanks guys!
BNaylor
02-19-2009, 08:05 PM
You're welcome.
Better than nothing Tim. Good job! :thumbsup:
Better than nothing Tim. Good job! :thumbsup:
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