Our Community is over 1 Million Strong. Join Us.

Grand Future Air Dried Beef Dog Food
Air Dried Dog Food | Real Beef

Grain-Free, Zero Fillers


painting problems


divot91
02-16-2009, 06:59 AM
i recently have been preping my 1985 318i beemer for painting, clearcoat and a ugly blister on the hood forced me to take action. well, i squirted the first coat and i didnt expect much and then i shot the second coat and at first it looked very good, came back to the shop the next day and the finish is, well, hazy, or it seems to have a clamshell hue to it.
its diamond black mattalic paint code 181, any suggestions on what i did wrong?

divot91
02-16-2009, 02:58 PM
heres a few pics to look over, ANY input will be great, thanks, chris

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu62/divot61/newpics015.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu62/divot61/newpics012.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu62/divot61/newpics002.jpg

mike_dmt
02-16-2009, 10:01 PM
Looks a bit cloudy. What did you use to shoot the paint? How many coats of base and clear did you shoot?

divot91
02-17-2009, 01:33 PM
i went out and bought a new central pnumatic HVLP siphon feed spray gun, and i have put 2 coats on. i sanded with 1000 grit, and it is suppose to have some clear coat in the paint, do ya think that will buff out?

divot91
02-20-2009, 12:56 PM
i think i have figured out what happend, first, NO SEALER on the primer, second, i waited to long in between coats, over night, and i think i have the wrong reducer, im currently useing medium reducer, it flashed to quick, plus i sprayed coats to thick, any suggestions on what to do? could i sand the car with 500 grit and shoot another light coat?? then shoot clearcoat??

divot91
02-25-2009, 07:04 PM
thanks for all the input guys, for future amateur painters that want to do it there selfs, use the internet and research, research, research and dont stop untill you are comfortable with what you are about to do. it will cost you in the long run. i thank my buddy R/T for steering me in the right direction, feel free to ask me a few things about painting, ill help ya if i can

juiceginn
07-29-2009, 09:55 AM
When painting a car you need to make sure you have the oxidation sanded as much as possible with a minimum of 400 grit and the cover with a good sealer/primer. Then sand again with 400 grit before apply the base and allow flash time. At least 2 coats of clear perferably 3 just in case you get a bad spot in the clear you the cut the clear. To cut the clear use 1500-2000 wet sand the area the high speed buff the 3m rubbing compund but becareful not to burn thru the edges. From the pics it kinda looks dry shot when spraying the clear. I spray my clear with regulator on gun about 45 psi. You need alot light in the garage to see when laying down the clear. Also clear when sprayed, it continues to move on the after to walk away. You want it wet but not to wet or it run away. Another trick if it, CLear only, runs just watch the run, like on fender, you can slowly keep spraying and it run to the floor and after 15 minutes wipe your finger on bottom of panel and no run just little sanding and buff nobody knows.

Bear
08-02-2009, 07:26 AM
Check the post on Pulling the Trigger on painting. I posted on my Neon hood and I used #400 grit to sand and then again with a #600. I did not prime even thought the clear coat was starting to de-laminate. Four coats of color about 10 minutes apart and then wait 45 min to 1 hour and shoot the clear, again abot ten minutes apart (I did a two step process, color and then clear). Except for a little organe peel (again maybe a bit too much pressure on the HVLP gun, 40 PSI) it came out great.

Add your comment to this topic!


Quality Real Meat Nutrition for Dogs: Best Air Dried Dog Food | Real Beef Dog Food | Best Beef Dog Food