Escort Key

Hi

I have a 96 escort lx, recently i've been having problems taking out the key from the ignition. It usuall gets stuck on the 2nd to last mark when taking it out..I dont remember what its called..Is there any solutions for this?.

Thanks Chris

Not much you can do other than replace the ignition. This seems to be a fairly common problem when the ignition switches get to be over 10 years old or so.

Not much you can do other than replace the ignition. This seems to be a fairly common problem when the ignition switches get to be over 10 years old or so.

OH man i got so many repairs to do to this car..there seems to be a problem after problem..do you think its worth keeping it?

On the key you might try putting the red spout on the WD 40 and give it a shot into the tumblers. Usually it is a lot cheaper to fix your car than to buy another one. It is a good idea to have things fixed as they go out so that it doesn't overwhelm you. I've heard it is nickel and diming me to death. Still cheaper to keep the old car rather than replace it.
You'll lose a couple thousand just on the trade in value. Then you'll have to make payments with interest, sales tax, larger property tax and higher insurance premiums. All this with no assurance that the newer car will be repair free. Keep it. These are my personal feelings about the subject. If others think he should trade it in, post your throughts on this. This is what the forum is all about.

thanks...i'll keep that in mind..does anybody else have any thoughts on this?

I'll play the devil''s advocate. A newer car with low miles would be more dependable No matter how much money you put into a car for repairs, it will only be worth so much. You won't get anything back if you trade it in or sell it outright. If things are wearing out that aren't normal maintenance (battery, brakes, struts, tires) maybe it is time to get another car.

I have two Escorts; one has the automatic transmission, the other is a 5-speed tranny. Both of them have had an issue with the key not coming out easily. But... I plan to keep both cars for many years. I like to put a drop of 3-in-1 oil onto the key, and put it into the ignition lock. Ten minutes later I do it again. If you do this a couple of times a year, the key may work more easily.
On our Escort having the automatic transmission, there in an interlock to keep the transmission from being taken out of Park if the key is not in the ignition and turned to 'on'. This same interlock will keep the key from being turned back far enough to come out - if the transmission is not in Park. There is a shift-lock cable that does this. It may have gotten sticky or need adjustment. The bottom end of the "shift-lock cable" is under the console around the shifter lever. The top end goes to the ignition switch. Ours had gotten doused a couple of time with spilled soft drinks, and finally the muck had to be cleaned out....because it was getting harder to get the ignition key turned all the way back to where it would come out.
On our 5-speed Escort its different. The last thing I (must) do before the key will turn that last bit and be free to come out, is to push the key 'in' slightly & turn it a few more degrees. Its meant to be this way, so you wont pull the key out without thinking about it. Having the key out means the steering wheel will lock - and they really really want you to have the car Stopped before you do that.
I would advise keeping the old car - until it gets rusty underneath. On one of our Escorts I myself replaced the brake lines to the rear of the car, due to severe rust; one of the lines had begun to leak. For most owners this would have been when the car when to the scrapyard, as the repairs were labor intensive. It took me a week to do the replacment, and $20 worth of parts. (The new brake lines.)
My Escorts may 'nickel and dime' me a lot - but I dont have car payments, only carry liability insurance, and I dont worry about it being stolen. On the open road we get 37 mpg on the Escort with the automatic transmission, and 38.5 mpg on the Escort with the manual transmission.
I also like the fact that getting a replacement copy of the ignition key for my Escort costs $2 at any hardware store. With later model cars (2000 & later?), if you lose the original key, you need to get a replacement key with the 'chip' in it and have the auto dealer program your car's computer to recognize it. On some cars, the replacement key will cost you almost $1000. On a 99 Avalon I know the price for a key is $150.

Thank you guys for the advice..I'm going to keep my car till it actually dies cuz i love my escort, I wouldnt trade it in for the world. I'll try out putting some wd-40 or oil in the key cylinder and check out the shift lock cable. I'm going to be visiting the junk yard alot this summer, for other repairs

I have two Escorts; one has the automatic transmission, the other is a 5-speed tranny. Both of them have had an issue with the key not coming out easily. But... I plan to keep both cars for many years. I like to put a drop of 3-in-1 oil onto the key, and put it into the ignition lock. Ten minutes later I do it again. If you do this a couple of times a year, the key may work more easily.
On our Escort having the automatic transmission, there in an interlock to keep the transmission from being taken out of Park if the key is not in the ignition and turned to 'on'. This same interlock will keep the key from being turned back far enough to come out - if the transmission is not in Park. There is a shift-lock cable that does this. It may have gotten sticky or need adjustment. The bottom end of the "shift-lock cable" is under the console around the shifter lever. The top end goes to the ignition switch. Ours had gotten doused a couple of time with spilled soft drinks, and finally the muck had to be cleaned out....because it was getting harder to get the ignition key turned all the way back to where it would come out.
On our 5-speed Escort its different. The last thing I (must) do before the key will turn that last bit and be free to come out, is to push the key 'in' slightly & turn it a few more degrees. Its meant to be this way, so you wont pull the key out without thinking about it. Having the key out means the steering wheel will lock - and they really really want you to have the car Stopped before you do that.
I would advise keeping the old car - until it gets rusty underneath. On one of our Escorts I myself replaced the brake lines to the rear of the car, due to severe rust; one of the lines had begun to leak. For most owners this would have been when the car when to the scrapyard, as the repairs were labor intensive. It took me a week to do the replacment, and $20 worth of parts. (The new brake lines.)
My Escorts may 'nickel and dime' me a lot - but I dont have car payments, only carry liability insurance, and I dont worry about it being stolen. On the open road we get 37 mpg on the Escort with the automatic transmission, and 38.5 mpg on the Escort with the manual transmission.
I also like the fact that getting a replacement copy of the ignition key for my Escort costs $2 at any hardware store. With later model cars (2000 & later?), if you lose the original key, you need to get a replacement key with the 'chip' in it and have the auto dealer program your car's computer to recognize it. On some cars, the replacement key will cost you almost $1000. On a 99 Avalon I know the price for a key is $150.


I forget to ask..if its the shift lock how should I proceed?. Should I just clean it out and oil it?

My keys seem to be getting stuck to the point one day soon it wouldnt come out. I can probably make a 2nd copy and leave the key in the ignition but the stereo would still be on because it gets stuck on that point.

We now just leave our key in the 92 escort, cover the steering column with a black rag, and lock the doors with another key. While frustrating, this process works well.

For Escorts with the automatic transmission (2nd generation Escorts anyway), there is a shift-lock manual over-ride 'button' down on the shifter console; a little to the right and forward of the shift lever. If you slide it I think it is supposed to let you move the lever, even though you havent put your foot on the brake pedal or put the key in the ignition. I took the lever off and unscrewed/lifted that console. Then I used some utility wire and wired the shift lock cable to stay in the 'unlocked' position. This means I can move the shift lever out of park and without putting my foot on the brake pedal. Although it eliminates one "safety-feature", I still prefer it. Since then, and since oiling the ignitio key-lock, the ignition key works fine. This means I do need to remember to put the car in park (or use the handbrake) when I leave the car.
Im not convinced that more interlocks on a car really contribute to safety. I think 'auto safety' means not running over anyone or running into anything.
By the way, I think its also a good idea to put a drop of oil on the key and put it into the door lock mechanism and the trunk lock mechanism a couple of times a years.

For Escorts with the automatic transmission (2nd generation Escorts anyway), there is a shift-lock manual over-ride 'button' down on the shifter console; a little to the right and forward of the shift lever. If you slide it I think it is supposed to let you move the lever, even though you havent put your foot on the brake pedal or put the key in the ignition. I took the lever off and unscrewed/lifted that console. Then I used some utility wire and wired the shift lock cable to stay in the 'unlocked' position. This means I can move the shift lever out of park and without putting my foot on the brake pedal. Although it eliminates one "safety-feature", I still prefer it. Since then, and since oiling the ignitio key-lock, the ignition key works fine. This means I do need to remember to put the car in park (or use the handbrake) when I leave the car.
Im not convinced that more interlocks on a car really contribute to safety. I think 'auto safety' means not running over anyone or running into anything.
By the way, I think its also a good idea to put a drop of oil on the key and put it into the door lock mechanism and the trunk lock mechanism a couple of times a years.


Hi i know what your talking about that little black slide clip, you sllide up with a flat head screwdriver correct?. When i received the car the clip hasnt been there, could that be contributing to this?

I would not think the slider button being missing would cause the problem your having with getting the key out; But...... perhaps the slider button is missing BECAUSE someone had trouble getting the key out, and was forcing the slider button forward - until it broke off. So the missing slider and the interlock hanging up may be related.

I would not think the slider button being missing would cause the problem your having with getting the key out; But...... perhaps the slider button is missing BECAUSE someone had trouble getting the key out, and was forcing the slider button forward - until it broke off. So the missing slider and the interlock hanging up may be related.

I can probably get anther slider clip from the junk yard..for now i copied my car key and left it in the ignition..Because of this my radio is still on, but i detach the face so it doenst drain my battery... To fix up the car for example replacing fuses or changing a radio, does the key have to be actually out? i'm going to have problems if it is...cuz the keys gettin stuck pretty bad now...and once the keys in its engaged correct?

The following details my experience:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=942821

just thought if i disconect the neg cable from the battery, would the key still be engaged at all?..and then i can do whatever repairs i want to the car?...

To replace most fuses it woudnt matter if the key was in & the ignition still -on-. To work with the radio though I would disconnect the battery before taking it out etc. Some radios object to having the 'memory' voltage disconnected when the 'ignition' voltage is still present. I have a Blaupunkt that is that way. It wants the memory voltage to be connected first, followed by the ignition voltage. And of course some (optional) radios have a "security feature" where they wont work again once disconnected unless you have the 'security code' to put in. Mine isnt that way luckily.
If you go to the junkyard, it isnt just the slider button you would want, but also the mechanism that is under it in the console. And it might be a good idea to get the whole cable that runs up to the ignition switch.
If the problem isnt connected by freeing up the interlock cable, then I would suspect your ignition switch is gone bad. There are two parts to it, the keylock part, and the electrical switch part. I think they can be bought separately. You get at them by removing the clamshell halves from the steering column. You get at the bolts holding the key part onto the column by unbolting the column and dropping it down a few inches, and taking off the top clamshell. There are good threads already describing how to get it off - since it was made with 'tamper resistant bolts', that a normal wrench wont unscrew. If interested, do a search for "ignition replacement" in this forum.

hi i cut the wires today..the chime has stop for the key..finally some quiet..i'm going to check out the shifter cable etc, when we get some warm weather here in canada lol

http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0577.jpg%5D%5Bimg=http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/39/img0577.th.jpghttp://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/%5BURL=http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0577.jpg%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://img155.imageshack.us/img155/39/img0577.th.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL%5DHI i just went into my shifter console and i noticed this broken piece of metal, also can you tell me what that black electronic box is ?.

Please see attachment..

Thanks

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/4500/img0579.jpg


http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/39/img0577.jpghttp://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/%5Burl=http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0577.jpg%5D%5Bimg=http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/39/img0577.th.jpg%5D%5B/url%5D

The black box is the 'shift lock actuator', and the "J" shaped metal rod would fit into the ring on the end of the actuator's
white plastic input rod. Also, I believe the J rod works the shift interlock cable. To quote from the
1994 Escort/Tracer Service Manual:
"The ign. shifter interlock cable prevents shifting out of the park position unless the ignition switch is in the
Run position, while the shift lock actuator prevents shifting out of the park position unless the brake pedal
is depressed. The ignition/shifter interlock is a mechanical lockout, while the brake/shifter interlock is an
electronic lockout, actuated by the Brake ON/Off (BOO) switch. Both the ignition shifter/interlock cable
and the shift lock actuator are overcome by the manual override lever."
So it would seem you either need to fix the broken-off J rod, or find a work around for its function.
And thats probably the reason you cant get the key out of the ignition switch.
Now I am doubly glad that I wired that "J" rod into the 'free' position. Where I live the annual
safety inspections dont check for operation of those interlocks. Next I may eliminate the interlock
that prevents turning the steering wheel when the key is out. They dont delight me either.

The black box is the 'shift lock actuator', and the "J" shaped metal rod would fit into the ring on the end of the actuator's
white plastic input rod. Also, I believe the J rod works the shift interlock cable. To quote from the
1994 Escort/Tracer Service Manual:
"The ign. shifter interlock cable prevents shifting out of the park position unless the ignition switch is in the
Run position, while the shift lock actuator prevents shifting out of the park position unless the brake pedal
is depressed. The ignition/shifter interlock is a mechanical lockout, while the brake/shifter interlock is an
electronic lockout, actuated by the Brake ON/Off (BOO) switch. Both the ignition shifter/interlock cable
and the shift lock actuator are overcome by the manual override lever."
So it would seem you either need to fix the broken-off J rod, or find a work around for its function.
And thats probably the reason you cant get the key out of the ignition switch.
Now I am doubly glad that I wired that "J" rod into the 'free' position. Where I live the annual
safety inspections dont check for operation of those interlocks. Next I may eliminate the interlock
that prevents turning the steering wheel when the key is out. They dont delight me either.

Hi my keys seem to come out perfectly now..I think the problem was the broken 'J' rod was blocking the shifter from hiting the shifter cable. As soon as i removed it and put some wd-40 in there, it started working perfectly.

Is it really necessary to replace the 'j' rod?

If you insist on the two interlocks working exactly as they originally did you would need to replace
the J-rod - which probably means getting a new shifter assembly from a junkyard.
Do your provincial inspections check for that kind of stuff?
There is one that might fit your car on ebay right now:
item # 270342248986
At least you can see what a unbroken one would look like.
As I said, I defeated the interlock on mine, along with silencing the key-in-door-open chime,
and have been happy with the result for the last two years.
I learned to drive our neighbor's old 1935 Ford 1-1/2 ton trucks - where there werent any interlocks
except inside your head. I think they assumed that when you went to drive one of those,
you would take your brain along and use it.
That might leave out most of my sister's-in-law and my kids too.

If you insist on the two interlocks working exactly as they originally did you would need to replace
the J-rod - which probably means getting a new shifter assembly from a junkyard.
Do your provincial inspections check for that kind of stuff?
There is one that might fit your car on ebay right now:
item # 270342248986
At least you can see what a unbroken one would look like.
As I said, I defeated the interlock on mine, along with silencing the key-in-door-open chime,
and have been happy with the result for the last two years.
I learned to drive our neighbor's old 1935 Ford 1-1/2 ton trucks - where there werent any interlocks
except inside your head. I think they assumed that when you went to drive one of those,
you would take your brain along and use it.
That might leave out most of my sister's-in-law and my kids too.

Hi i dont believe ontario checks for this kind of stuff..but i'll check around the junk yard in the summer for a replacement..I'll put this last on my repair list..

Thanks everybody

..................................... As I said, I defeated the interlock on mine, along with silencing the key-in-door-open chime,
and have been happy with the result for the last two years.
I learned to drive our neighbor's old 1935 Ford 1-1/2 ton trucks - where there werent any interlocks
except inside your head. I think they assumed that when you went to drive one of those,
you would take your brain along and use it.
That might leave out most of my sister's-in-law and my kids too.

My guess is nobody had any money back near the great depression era so it was near pointless for people to try and levy any lawsuits for their own stupidity. ;)