Which Shifter for GTRA T3550 Trans?

After accidently slotting 3rd instead of 5th a couple of times during the 1 hour endurance race I did a couple of weeks ago, I have decided I need to upgrade the shifter unit.

What shifters have the rest of you tried?

What brand shifter do you recommend for the T3550, what is the manufacturers name and part number for our application?

What was the cost?

Thanks,

I've installed a number of MGW Shifters in my Mustangs
and love them !!! Currently in my 04 Cobra SVT , put one in my Parnelli Jones Saleen ( sold to buy the Panoz ) I too have thoughts of the same up-grade ... These shifters have a very distinct & crisp 3rd / 4th line & you won't miss ... They are new for the 3550 this year for $ 199.00 + shipping ... Just google mgw shifters , they sell direct ... Hope this Helps / Paul W.:grinyes: ps... We'll might be challanged w/ the off set linkage in the Panoz ; just have not looked that hard at it ...

I've had all three, and you can't go wrong with any of them. In order of MY preference:


#1 Hurst Billet Plus
#2 Pro 5.0
#3 Steeda

My Mustang has the Hurst, the Panoz has the Pro 5.0
Available at any speed outlet (Jegs, Sumitt, HRP, etc)

My car came with a hurst, it was sloppy and worn out so i replaced it with a steeda and LOVE it.

Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated.

I've done the reverse thing, hitting 5th when wanting 3rd. I was chalking it up to my inconsistent driving skills. Now I don't feel half as bad. Trying to convince myself!!

Kel , Have you bought a shifter ... Wondering if you have any comments on the install ??? I still have some time ; 5" of snow today & 10 (F) below tonight ... First track day at BIR is late May ...
www.birperformance.com (http://www.birperformance.com) Thanks / Paul W. :-) Uwe , most after market shifters have a very deliberate 3rd /4th line & you need to pull in for 1st / 2nd line & push out for 5th ...

Kel , Have you bought a shifter ... Wondering if you have any comments on the install ??? I still have some time ; 5" of snow today & 10 (F) below tonight ... First track day at BIR is late May ...
www.birperformance.com (http://www.birperformance.com) Thanks / Paul W. :-) Uwe , most after market shifters have a very deliberate 3rd /4th line & you need to pull in for 1st / 2nd line & push out for 5th ...

Hi Paul, no I have not purchased one as yet. We are pulling the engine out tomorrow (maintenance checking prior to a 6 hour I have in May) and it is likely that we will pull the trans as well.

Just looking that the installation it appears as though a lot of the current lever 'play' is coming from the gear lever extension mechanism front joint. We will probably shim out all play and make a D based on how shift feels at that stage. We may also look at the current shifter detent springs and see if these are able to be upgraded.

I am reasonably comfortable with most gates except the 4 - 5 shift. I am sure it probably has something to do with me sitting on the 'wrong' side of the car and pushing for a gear in a plane that is not 2nd nature for me (we have right hand drive cars over here). Question is, do I get a free Green Card if I manage the 6 hour with no missed 4 - 5 shifts..............?!

Will keep you posted on what we do.

I have been thinking about the shifter upgrade myself. What do you guys think about a group buy. I pass by MGW every Monday. I can stop and see what kind of deal we can get if any one is interested.

David

Hi Paul, no I have not purchased one as yet. We are pulling the engine out tomorrow (maintenance checking prior to a 6 hour I have in May) and it is likely that we will pull the trans as well.

Just looking that the installation it appears as though a lot of the current lever 'play' is coming from the gear lever extension mechanism front joint. We will probably shim out all play and make a D based on how shift feels at that stage. We may also look at the current shifter detent springs and see if these are able to be upgraded.

I am reasonably comfortable with most gates except the 4 - 5 shift. I am sure it probably has something to do with me sitting on the 'wrong' side of the car and pushing for a gear in a plane that is not 2nd nature for me (we have right hand drive cars over here). Question is, do I get a free Green Card if I manage the 6 hour with no missed 4 - 5 shifts..............?!

Will keep you posted on what we do.

Green Card? You don't need no stinkin' Green Card! Just come the southern route!!!!

Finally got around to looking at the shifter linkage mechanism. I had not had this completely disassembled before and found a couple of issues as I pulled it apart.

First issue was the radial and thrust bearings on the front end of the shifter extension rod to gear box joint were all worn and or broken. This was introducing a lot of additional angular movement into the shifters action. All bearings and washers were replaced in this joint.

Second issue was at the gear lever end, the small 1/4" x 7/16" x 1/4" bearing had not been installed at all in the gear lever (nice fresh black paint pushed out as I pressed the new bearing in). This was putting additional load onto the side washers and bearings and had broken these as well. All bearings and washers were also replaced in this joint.

Third issue was the roll pins inside the transmission shift linkage were worn and were inducing additional play into the shift. We found some quality roll pins and replaced all of the 'soft' pins fitted.

With new bearings and washers fitted (all relatively inexpensive and available from Panoz) the shift pattern is now completely different. Far more positive and precise. If you do not like the gear shift in your car, look at these areas of maintenance first prior to purchasing an aftermarket shifter as it may work OK for you without needing to spend the extra $$.

I would have to say (now that I have pulled it apart and had a good look.....) that the gear shift extension linkage was very well engineered by Panoz and if maintained should work well.

Any missed shifts are now of my own making!!

OK, as a new Panoz owner, after my first track day, I need to improve the shifting quality. So now for the real stupid question, what is the Panoz parts contact info? Phone number or web site? I'd like to do the shift linkage rebuild.
Also a few questions on car set up.
I was running 25psi cold tire pressure all around at this past weekends track event, and the front seemed to push a lot in slow turns. Any advice?
Is there any way to install a gas gauge, not knowing when to add gas at the track is sort of a pain.
In general the car was a lot of fun, very controlable and fun to drive. With the stock 5.0 it really wants more power!! My FFR 392cu in Cobra has spoiled me, I want more power. But I dont have to worry about keeping the back end from wanting to lead the front end like I do with the Cobra, but I see an engine up date in the near future. 347, 392 or LS ??? I'll have to think about this one.
Paul

Paul,

Panoz (PAD) contacts
Josh Huskin ([email protected] ([email protected])) and Brandon Carver([email protected] ([email protected])) will try to take care of you via e-mail or phone @ 770-867-4796

I used 24 frt and 26 rear (cold) and never had push. I am trying shocks at frt one click from full hard and rears two clicks from full hard (middle of the range). I have the 550/350 springs and pretty much the standard alignment & ride height, front bar stiff, no rear bar.

I use a rod to check fuel. Cheap, but accurate enough.

Mike

Mike
Thanks, I'll give Josh or Brandon a call Monday.

I spent the day cleaning up the car from Miami-Homestead last Sunday and fixing a few minor things. I replaced the twist hood locks with a good set of stainless hood pins that will never come off. Tomorrow I attack the trunk lid, I lost 3 of the hold down twist locks and almost lost the trunk lid at speed. Also I spent an hour trying to find the right bolts to bolt the seat back to the frame seat back support. I bet I want through every type of bolt in my garage and none fit. I will also have to fab a bracket to bolt the seat to the seat frame bracket. Is yours bolted to the seat or just provide aft load support?
Paul

Paul,
I don't know about the seat back for sure. I'll have a look and let you know. As I recall the seat back is securely bolted by a tubular bracket to the cage, so I'm pretty sure that bracket is directly bolted to the seat back. It wasn't when I got the car, but it was secured by Gary Jones Motorsport (thanks, Todd). They may have been left loose so they could adjust the driver's seat fore and aft.

GJ also installed rear hood pins as you are doing. They made simple L shaped brackets out of aluminum sheet, bolted them to the wing uprights inside the trunk and drilled them for the pins. Works great. They also installed two rubber stretch T type hood tie downs on the back of the deck. I think this is common on the fiberglass cars. I am also going to replace the rear screw in fastners on the hood with hood pins.

Mike

I alwasy thought the back of the seat is not supposed to be bolted to the adjustable back support. The seatbelts mount to the frame thru the seat. So the belts pull and snug you and the seat into the back support. The brace is there to snug all of this tight and for rear impact. It just needs to be snug to the back of the seat. Plus some seats you will void the warranty and the FIA certification by drilling into the seat....

as far as the hood and trunk pins go:

:useless:

Proper installation of a seat back brace is to have it bolted the cage AND the seat. FIA rated and current seats should NOT be drilled or have a seat back brace added, they are designed with flex intended, but most sanctioninig bodies require FIA seats that ar outdated to have a seat back brace installed.

A seat back brace that is NOT boted is a back breaker waitng to happen. if you get into an accident and the seat flexs forward and then abrubtly slams backwards, you have a larger steel bar awaiting your arrival. The brace is intended to prevent the seat from overflexing and allowing you to "fall out" from under your harnesses.

my 2 cents worth every penny