The clunk is gone

I have to say thanks to the forum, you guys saved me at least a few hundred dollars this weekend. I had the infamous clunk when starting from a stop and it was due to the slip yoke. I put my truck up on stands and was happy to find no problems with the u-joints, solid as can be. 20 minutes later I had the drive shaft off, greased and re-assembled. Now, not a sound at the stop lights.

I have to say thanks to the forum, you guys saved me at least a few hundred dollars this weekend. I had the infamous clunk when starting from a stop and it was due to the slip yoke. I put my truck up on stands and was happy to find no problems with the u-joints, solid as can be. 20 minutes later I had the drive shaft off, greased and re-assembled. Now, not a sound at the stop lights.

hate to be a party pooper, but it'll come back in about 4-5 mths. The only way to really fix it is to replace that yoke with nickel plated one.

I know it's not a permanent fix. I'm fine with spending 30 min a few times a year to keep things silent and I've got enough grease for years. When the u-joints go bad, that when I'll look into a nickel plated yoke.

I know it's not a permanent fix. I'm fine with spending 30 min a few times a year to keep things silent and I've got enough grease for years. When the u-joints go bad, that when I'll look into a nickel plated yoke.

that is all cool.
now, do this: next time you pull the d-shaft, grab the output shaft in trannie and move it upside down. don't be surprised should it wobble and clunck.
I am dead sure that bind from the yoke messes output shaft suspension.

just a friendly observation.

I have to say thanks to the forum, you guys saved me at least a few hundred dollars this weekend. I had the infamous clunk when starting from a stop and it was due to the slip yoke. I put my truck up on stands and was happy to find no problems with the u-joints, solid as can be. 20 minutes later I had the drive shaft off, greased and re-assembled. Now, not a sound at the stop lights.

let us know how this works out...it could be worn but maybe not...if it lasts a few months it should be good..

found a quick fix and check. get some sea foam deep creep. and spray at the base of the shaft under the dash. you will see ware the shaft joint is just be for the floor. soak it a bit then drive around the block repeat a few times. clung gone. don't know how long it will last but a few bucks for a can cheep fix. tood mine away and its been over a week.

What type of grease did you use? What all did you grease? I am about tired of hearing this same noise. Thanks

Are you guys talking about the driveshaft slip yoke or the steering slip shaft, cause there is responses talking about both....

Are you guys talking about the driveshaft slip yoke or the steering slip shaft, cause there is responses talking about both....

he's talking about driveshaft slip yoke. it rusts and bind to trannie output shaft. the way it is all designed, truck wheelbase changes some when you take off. this movement is supposed to be accomodated by the slip yoke splines moving on the output shaft splines. cheap as GM is, they made yoke out of some "cost efficient" metal, so it rusts and binds to the output shaft.

ISS - intermediate steering shaft - is flawed designed for over 10 yrs, as folks on brand spanking new trucks have same issue. you can keep lubricating it with whatever, or you can replace it with a NAPA design and have it over once and for all. OEM design replacement will return the problem in about 7-8 mths. I know.

he's talking about driveshaft slip yoke. it rusts and bind to trannie output shaft. the way it is all designed, truck wheelbase changes some when you take off. this movement is supposed to be accomodated by the slip yoke splines moving on the output shaft splines. cheap as GM is, they made yoke out of some "cost efficient" metal, so it rusts and binds to the output shaft.

ISS - intermediate steering shaft - is flawed designed for over 10 yrs, as folks on brand spanking new trucks have same issue. you can keep lubricating it with whatever, or you can replace it with a NAPA design and have it over once and for all. OEM design replacement will return the problem in about 7-8 mths. I know.

I know both problems, just saw both responces, so wanted to clear it up for anyone involved. The driveshaft slip yoke was uncommon when I worked at the dealership but I must have greased about 9 hundred zillion iss and replaced atleast 1 hundred. The general warratied it for a while, then they just went back to greasing it for warranty. The stupid thing is they didn't change a thing, they just kept producing them with the same junk shafts for years even when they new full well it was a customer complaint.

what kind of grease did you use. I have a 2000 Z71 with same problem. I had a dealer lube it, it seems like it lasted maybe 6 months. If I can do it myself, I can save some costs.

what kind of grease did you use. I have a 2000 Z71 with same problem. I had a dealer lube it, it seems like it lasted maybe 6 months. If I can do it myself, I can save some costs.


you want to use GM original lube with PTFE. #12345879. it is, indeed, a very good lubricant. works very well on garage door hinges and any zert in GM creations.

now, here how goes it. you go to dealership and ask for the 800 gram can of it. they say Sure and quote you about $45 plus tax for it. You raise your eyebrow, frown, and say that you can buy a can of lube with PTFE (practice PTFE at home, so you sound like you've been dealing with it for eons) at any hardware store for less than 20 bucks. which is true, lithium grease with PTFE is around 10 bucks at HD.
my local dealer immediately gave me discount and sold it for $25. it is good lubricant though, no sarcasm.

as a dish on the side, I am membering in 5 Chevy forums. basically, that slip yoke clunk is all over the web. starting 99 and up to the latest models, as I saw some on 08 ones.

I realized that it's been about three months since I greased the splines of the slip yoke. So far it's still silent but I know it won't last forever and I imagine that I'll start hearing things again in the next few weeks.

Im about to order a slip yoke to the tune of $225, what should i lube the new one with so its not dry when I put it back in?

Im about to order a slip yoke to the tune of $225, what should i lube the new one with so its not dry when I put it back in?

well, here's a million dollar question: are you ordering a NICKEL PLATED yoke? as if you order same OEM metal one, you might, as well, just go to junk yard, buy used one GM made, sand blast it, lub with GM grease with PTFA, and be back to same problem sooner, than later, just at much less expense.:2cents::2cents::2cents::2cents::2cents:

Reason GM went to nickel plated slip yoke was cuz it does not rust and bind with the output shaft. I was quoted over $400 dealership for the swap. If you found nickel plated one for $225, let me know where at, as I could not find one on the web, and I am VERY GOOD at this. I shall definitely appreciate tip, as it is continuous aggrevation to listen to that clunk. Also, I am planning to rid of this money pit, so selling it with that thud in the rear will definitely lower the value.

I will have to double check my P/N's that I got from the TSB but my dealer through work said $225.

I will have to double check my P/N's that I got from the TSB but my dealer through work said $225.

it is all good, bud, but keep in mind - if you are buying the same edition yoke you had before, you are just postponing the problem. new one will last you longer, of course, but, unless you planning on selling the truck in next year or 2, you buying same trouble.

Im not gonna buy it if it isn't the updated version. Im just trying to fix all of my problems before I lift it.

lifting, aye, mate? well, you 'll have heck of a pull on that yoke then. definitely smart to get nickel plated one. well, let me know if that's the one. i'll swap mine to. getting on my last nerve with that thud.