95 Ford Explorer - Can you disable ABS Light

Hello, I have a 95 ford explorer. Stopped at a light and felt a funny "click" on the brake and then the ABS light came on. Took to a mechanic and he says it is the MAIN ABS UNIT which costs $600-1000 and a major pain to install/bleed.

He suggests that I simple let it go since brakes will work fine, just no ABS.

OK, so how do I disable or turn off or disconnect the bright ABS light on the dash?

Thanks
Alan

Is the click a rapid series of clicks, like when the ABS activates? Have you checked the rear wheel speed sensor? That sensor is known to fail and cause ABS issues, and it would certainly be less expensive than a main ABS unit.

-Rod

Hello, thanks for the response....

No, there is no "clicking" or pulsing now. It only happened the one time and my wife said it felt like something broke. Now, the brakes feel fine/normal, but the ABS light is on. If I trust my mechanic, he says it is the main unit and not worth replacing. I even checked ebay for a used one and they are there for around $75 but the mechanic said they are a real mess to install because of the "purging" you have to do and it is NOT as simple as bleeding the brakes.....

I am ok with that, not having ABS, but the ABS light is annoying. I was hoping there was a fuse I could pull to get rid of it. I even tried a few fuses that had the word "abs" in the description including the bigger fuse in the main power block under the hood. But no luck.

The mechanic said the only way is to REMOVE THE DASH and pull the bulb out. I didn't want to do that, BUT at the same time I actually have a few bulbs that are burned out, so I could do that replacing the bad ones and remove the ABS one.

Any other ideas?

Did the technician provide you with the exact code that he read out? It's possible that the code might have a simple fix rather than replacing the whole module.

ABS is a safety feature, and while it was not required, I'd be a bit hesitant to offer suggestions on how to bypass that safety feature.

You'll probably find that if you remove the bulb the warning annuniciator will start chiming. I'm not sure if the ABS system is plumbed that way as well. If the SRS/airbag bulb is removed or burns out, the chime will sound to alert you to check the bulbs.

-Rod

Hello, no he didn't give me a code. But he is also a "friend" so I have no reason to think he is jerking me around. I can only assume he knows what he is doing.

So assuming it is the main unit as there is no noise or clicking or pulsing that folks describe when it is a sensor, is there a way to turn that light off? a fuse or wire or bulb or ????

I did hear what you said, you think that if I pull the bulb there will be some sort of alarm indicating that the bulb is out?

I just want to turn the darn light off....

Thanks
Alan

Hello, no he didn't give me a code. But he is also a "friend" so I have no reason to think he is jerking me around. I can only assume he knows what he is doing.

What I'm suggesting though is that, in case he doesn't have the factory service manual (FSM), or the time to consult the FSM, he may be jumping to a conclusion that the control module is bad. However, there may be some simple steps you can use to determine that all that's wrong is a simple, inexpensive wheel speed sensor or similar.

So assuming it is the main unit as there is no noise or clicking or pulsing that folks describe when it is a sensor, is there a way to turn that light off? a fuse or wire or bulb or ????

I don't have a wiring diagram for the '95 Ford trucks, so I'm not sure if there's a fuse or two that only power the ABS system and nothing else. Often the systems are so well integrated that if one system doesn't get a signal from another system, a light will come on and diagnostic code set. 1995 was just prior to the full transition to OBD-II, so it's tough to say how well integrated the systems are in your Explorer.

I did hear what you said, you think that if I pull the bulb there will be some sort of alarm indicating that the bulb is out?

I'm not sure that's the case, but I wouldn't be surprised if it is. If this were the airbag (SRS) system I'd be pretty confident a missing SRS warning bulb would cause a beep from the GEM, but I'm not sure sure the ABS will cause such. I have heard of others with Taurii having a beep due to a bad bulb for the ABS, but I don't recall what years they were.

-Rod

What I'm suggesting though is that, in case he doesn't have the factory service manual (FSM), or the time to consult the FSM, he may be jumping to a conclusion that the control module is bad. However, there may be some simple steps you can use to determine that all that's wrong is a simple, inexpensive wheel speed sensor or similar years they were.
-Rod

What simple steps?

I wrote, "...there may be some simple steps..." but we'd need to know the code to offer them. The factory service manual offers troubleshooting steps to determine the source of many of the diagnostic codes. For example, a code that initially appears to indicate a bad Hydraulic Control Unit may end up being a lack of voltage to a certain pin due to corrosion or a broken wire. The diagnostic steps may be something like, "Step 1: Verify you have battery voltage to pin 3 of connector C220. If voltage is present, proceed to step 4. If no voltage, inspect red/white wire and repair damage."

-Rod

I wrote, "...there may be some simple steps..." but we'd need to know the code to offer them. The factory service manual offers troubleshooting steps to determine the source of many of the diagnostic codes. For example, a code that initially appears to indicate a bad Hydraulic Control Unit may end up being a lack of voltage to a certain pin due to corrosion or a broken wire. The diagnostic steps may be something like, "Step 1: Verify you have battery voltage to pin 3 of connector C220. If voltage is present, proceed to step 4. If no voltage, inspect red/white wire and repair damage."

-Rod

I spoke to the mechanic today and he assured me that it was the code for the main unit and not a sensor. So assuming he is correct and it is the main unit, can the light be disabled?

But again, a code for the "main unit" could be due to no power getting to the main unit or something similar to no power. If you have the code, we can pull up the troubleshooting steps for the code. You might get lucky.

You can try pulling the bulb for the ABS and see if that satisfies you or if there is some annoying warning beep that will start up. If you can't get the code and don't have a wiring diagram, that's one of you few options. You could also try completely unplugging the ABS control unit and see what happens. It should not prevent your brakes from working to stop the car, but as you realize, you will not have ABS functionality.

-Rod

Ok this is a bit frustrating, Rod is trying to give you good info, as he said, it comes down to what code(s) were retrieved. To diag this problem correctly, we need this info, get off the idea of getting rid of the light! Fix the darn thing, and guess what, the light will go out, oh, and you'll have abs back and working correctly! If your "buddy" cannot supply you with the code, take it to a good Ford shop, and have them diag the issue! Oh food for thought, what portion of the ABS system is your "buddy" suggesting to replace, the electronic, or the hydrolic side. THe reason he is saying its such a "pain" to bleed, is that you need the proper equipment to do what they call an ABS service bleed, which purges the air from the hcu. Doesn't sound like he has said equipment.

Can't you just go to autozone and have em turn it off with the obd2 reader? My abs light has come on and goes off by itself? I really hate ABS.. When I push my breaks I want to STOP not slow down to a stop! If I knew how to disable it I would for sure!

The scan tools at AutoZone cannot access the ABS systems, but even if they could, if there is a hard fault, clearing the code will only turn off the light for a very short time. As soon as the ABS computer recognizes the problem is still present, the light will come back on.

As for the benefit of ABS, try stopping quicker/shorter without ABS on a wet or sandy or snowy surface than with ABS. To make things even more interesting, try steering around an obstacle while braking with and without ABS. The ABS pump modulates the brakes tens to hundreds of times per second. That's a lot faster than any person can do that. ABS brakes makes the average driver (and even most above average drivers) more able to stop and steer in a panic situation than without, which makes everyone on the roads safer.

-Rod

Ok this is a bit frustrating, Rod is trying to give you good info, as he said, it comes down to what code(s) were retrieved. To diag this problem correctly, we need this info, get off the idea of getting rid of the light! Fix the darn thing, and guess what, the light will go out, oh, and you'll have abs back and working correctly! If your "buddy" cannot supply you with the code, take it to a good Ford shop, and have them diag the issue! Oh food for thought, what portion of the ABS system is your "buddy" suggesting to replace, the electronic, or the hydrolic side. THe reason he is saying its such a "pain" to bleed, is that you need the proper equipment to do what they call an ABS service bleed, which purges the air from the hcu. Doesn't sound like he has said equipment.

Hey Guys, I really do appreciate your help.... I dropped off this for a few but wanted to give some more feedback.

The mechanic won't give me the codes. He only assured me that it was the MAIN HYDROLIC device. In fact he quoted the electronic part first (around $300 or so) which is acceptable to fix for me. But when I called him, he said NO, it was the main hydrolic device that does cost in the $1000 range PLUS installation. I even called NAPA and they confirmed the $600-$1000 price.

As far as installation. I hear what you are saying. I guess I could try a dedicated BRAKE shop, but taking it to FORD is what I was trying to avoid. In EVERY case, FORD is unacceptable with diagnostics and cost.

YES, it bugs me to death that it is broke. Eventhough it is a 95, I would still like everything to work the way it is suppose to! But I can't aford to dump $1500 into the ABS when I personally am not convinced it is that great of a benefit here in SUNNY Florida (ie. no snow).

And to answer the other person's question..... Yes, he did tell me that he could turn off the light by resetting the code. However, just as what was said above, as soon as the "system" detects the problem, the light comes back on. So you can't just turn it off. I also tried several fusses and unplugging the main unit but still the light comes on.

You may be way ahead to take it somwehere that will read the code and give you the EXACT code number. If we had that number, it is easier for us to offer the correct information.

You may be way ahead to take it somwehere that will read the code and give you the EXACT code number. If we had that number, it is easier for us to offer the correct information.

I understand and appreciate it. Right now I can't find another place to take it to that can read OBD1 codes for FREE. Hate spending another $100 just to get the code. And places (so far) that will do it for free like Advanced Auto can't read those codes.

If I may, you might find yourself very surprised that taking it to the dealer may actaully be your cheapest route. I've been a tried and true GM guy and always found going to them for parts was the most expensive route, however with Ford, dealer parts were cheapest. Sure, the labor rate may be a bit of a shock, but that is across the board with almost all manufacturer repair facilities.

Ultimaely, disconnecting the light in my opinion and obviously of the others is not the route to persue.

Also, as others have said, jsut because the code indicates the main control unit, it does not mean that particular part is a fault. it is the same concept as engine emission control codes that indicate the problem CIRCUIT not a PART. With GM's one of the biggest codes cost wise has always been the Mass Air Flow Sensor which can run anywhere from $150 for a el-cheapo all the way up to the $500 range for a quality replacement. But guess what, GM MAF's are highly reputable and 9 out of 10 times it ends being corrosion on one connector pin that merely needed cleaned and broke connection in the circuit.

Not trying to boost a arguement or anything, but your 'friend mechanic' seems to me to not be well versed in this area, no offense, a lot of us technicians are better in some areas than others, some techs only do brakes while others do nothing but engine perfomance.

It does not hurt to call around.

I always say to treat your automotive problems you can't resolve on your own like you would your own health problems. If the first doctor you see tells you that you will die of cancer in 4 months wouldn't you get another opnion? Same concept applies. :2cents:

EDIT - Also, as a general thought and information to others where it may apply, if where you reside requires routine vehicle safety inspections, if you remove the bulb you will not pass the "bulb check" portion and your vehicle will be sidelined until resolved.

:banghead:I have a 95 explorer xlt and I have the problem abs light!! OK whatever you say (good advise) BUT both of us need to know how to disable that system. the code reader will not give us any other codes and we want our trucks operational

Welcome to the forum!

Pulling the bulb will not make your Explorer "operational." It will just allow you to momentarily ignore a system that, on the contrary, is not operational.

Fixing the source of the ABS diagnostic code would make the truck operational. And, it would be a pretty good guess to replace the rear ABS speed sensor on the differential to solve the issue. That is a common part to go out, and if I were to shotgun parts, I would start there on your truck.

-Rod