'95 Cutlass Ciera SL 3.1L - Power Steering Pump Replacement

I replaced the power steering pump in my Wife's '95 Cutlass Ciera SL 3.1L today and thought I'd post some info for others down the road. Simply put, the pump came out pretty easy, the toughest part was swapping the pulley from one pump to another.

First off, my Haynes repair manual #38005 says to disconnect the electrical connector and remove the blower motor. Blower moter must be a type-o because the darn thing is in the dash!!! Then it says to drain the coolant and remove hoses and then pull water pump. Fortunately, and I mean fortunately, I didn't need to do any of this. The manual also states you have to loosen bolts and move the power steering pump to remove the belt, which also isn't true. The belt is held in tension with a pulley, which all you need is an open end wrench to grab and pull to loosen and remove the belt.

There are three bolts accessible through holes in the pulley, remove them and then the two fluid lines and the pump is free to go. There is a squeeze hose clamp on one hose and you need an open end wrench to remove the other line, but they are easy to get to and to remove. And you'll need a socket wrench and a deep socket (can't remember, maybe 1/2") to get the three bolts, but they loosened without busting a knuckle. At first it seemed like the pump was held from complete removal by the water pump housing, but after some wiggling it came right out. And the new pump went in even easier. I got a new pump with the reservoir. I was given the option to get one without and use the old reservoir, but I figured I was better off with both already attached.

I don't have a workbench in my garage yet, so I worked on some cardboard on the ground. I had to use a breakerbar to remove the pulley as I couldn't turn the puller-puller tool with just a wrench. I put a wrench through a pulley hole to keep it from spinning, but holding the pump while trying to turn the breaker bar was a pain in my arse. I got it loose once I tried the bar. The pulley went on the new pump much easier than it came off the old pump. I rented the tool from a local auto parts store.

After getting the belt back on, filling the reservoir with new fluid, and beeding the lines of air, the pump sounded worse than the one I just junked. It took a while to break in, but quieted down after maybe 5 minutes of bleeding and idling. It took less than a quart of fluid now that it's filled to spec.

Here's the kicker... One of her power steering lines was so corroded it sprung a leak, and she drove all over kingdom come with her Mom a few days ago before the pump started screaming for help. I'm not going in to that next whole phase of fixing the line, but thank goodnness for compression fittings and a rod of new line. Sometimes it's easier to scab in a section of a line than to replace the whole darn line itself. But that's another thread...

Hey Thanks for the tips Buddur !

I know sometimes manuals are for several makes/models. And they dont always show each and every one involved. But it sounds like that manual was way off! lol

On some of the newr cars like my GAs you have to remove the engine mount to remove the power steering pump. What a PITA !

Also it is recomended you replace your hoses and or at least flush the system before replacing the pump or rack & pinion. :2cents:

Oh geez, I never even thought of flushing out the old fluid. Good idea! Now that you mention it, after all that work, I might as well have new fluid in the system.

Her radiator fluid is pretty old too. Maybe I'll do both this weekend. She's worth it...my wife that is.

I replaced her power steering fluid last night. I removed the upper hose (return) having the squeeze clamp and inserted tubing into the hose and ran the tubing to an empty gallon milk jug. I closed off the hose fitting on the pump with another piece of tubing with duct tape on the other end.

I had my wife run the car for only a few seconds to move the fluid through the system and "almost" drain the reservoir, then filled the reservoir with new fluid. We did this four to five times until new fluid could be seen coming through the discharge hose. The new fluid is clear and transparent, whereas the old fluid looked pinkish red and translucent to opaque. It was pretty easy to tell the new fluid from the old.

I let my wife go inside and started the bleeding sequence by starting the engine and slowly turning the wheels from side to side then letting it idle a few minutes, then turning off the engine and checking and topping off the fluid level. I did this a few times until I was sure the fluid in the reservoir was staying at the same level, indicating any and all all air was out of the system. It went pretty smooth, and judging from the look of the old fluid, the flush needed to be done.

Im glad I found this post. I have had to put a bottle of power steering fluid almost everyday. Everywhere I park it leaks out. It seems to be coming from the bottom. What would the problem be? The steering does losen up when I put the steering fluid in. I wouldnt think that the pump is the problem if it is leaking from the bottom? Im thinking maybe a corroded or worn hose? I guess the cheaper part is going to be the start. havent got underneath yet to look will do this weekend but ideas will be great!!! Thanks

Yes I would say your leaks probly from the pressure line underneath.
Both can actualy leak, but the return isnt such a high pressure to leak that fast.