97 Voyager - Major issues...

ok my situation keeps getting weirder and weirder....
The other day I was driving at night and when I turned on my blower fan (which does not have all postions working and craps out sometimes unless you give it a swift kick) the gauges needles went haywire, my odometer went blank, my radio started cutting out and the headlights started flickering....
When we got home the dome lights would not come on and there was a clicking underneath the dash until I turned the dome lights off.

The next morning I went out to see what was going on and the car would not start. I checked the battery and it was fully charged so I tried it again and the odometer came on but would still not start and I didnt get any other dash lights for either time. I then tried it a third time and nothing came on and it would not start again (each time it wouldnt even turn over, there was nothing). Since I couldnt get in because of a car next to me I put it in neutral and pushed it across the lot and decided to try it again and it started right up with no problems....

It has been fine until tonight. I went shopping and when we got back out to the car it wouldnt do anything. i pulled the multifunciton relays out from under the dash and put them back in and tried again to start it. I got a couple of lights but nothing else and this was with everything in the car turned off. The oddest thing is I put it in neutral and let is coast back a couple of inches and it started right up......

This is really baffeling and I have never heard of anything like this before.

Any help with this or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I dont want to take it to the dealer and spend a couple of hundred dollars to get it checked out unless i absoulutely have to.

I will post any other odd things as they happen.

Sounds like the dreaded instrument cluster solder joint problem. Next time it won't start try smacking the top of dash see if that helps. Also pull the IOD fuse in engine compartment for few minutes this may also help with resetting the BCM.

Here is a thread that has couple links with great info on subject.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=928278&highlight=instrument+cluster

Also do a search using Instrument Cluster and there are numerous threads on this problem.

hope this helps

I can check this out but it seems to be more than an instrument cluster problem with the fan having issues as well as the headlights and it being picky about when it wants to start.
i will check it out though. thanks

One of the problems bad solder joints in the instrument cluster will affect is the no start. Losts of times you can not see the faulty solder joints with the naked eye, using a magnafling glass will help. Best to heat up the solder on each joint so they are known to be good along as you have the cluster out just for good measure.

good luck

Thanks for the extra tip :)

Couple things to add:

> The instrument cluster issue mentioned causes what appear to be unrelated issues because the cluster circuit board is on what is called the CCD or Chrysler Collision Detection multyplex databus. It's a set of wiring all the modules/computers communicate with each other on. Multiple signals travel simultaniously over the databus. High resistance anywhere on the databus can create seemingly unrelated issues. The instrument cluster solder connections are a common fail point.

> Another common fail point is the connection at the climate control module on the control panel. Generally the connection overheats and melts the connector. This usuaully creates a dead instrument panel, radio and climate panel problems.

> I would lean towards a cluster issue but, this is another possibility. When you say you back the van up and it starts brings the TRS or Transaxle Range Sensor into question. It's the component in the transmission that tells the engine computer (PCM) the van is in park or neutral so that when you turn the key the PCM will pass voltage to the starter. Another indication of this is any erratic gear select indications (PRNDL3).

> How are you checking the battery? Lights coming on and 12 vdc across the battery terminals does not indicate you have a good battery. One indication of a good battery is a drop of no more that 2-3 volts at the battery posts when you turn the key. The best test is a load test. Any auto parts will perform the test. Some for free. The electronics on these vans are very sensative to low voltage or spikes. I'd verify the battery and it's connections, including the ground connections at the chassey and engine block are good.

wow.... just another reason not to buy one of these vans.....
well i have an update. i was stuck in traffic this morning (speed 5-25 mph) and i was doing good then the radio station cutout and then came back on followed by the odometer blinking. so to solve this i turned off the fan the radio and the dome/dash lights. needless to say it got a little cold and boring in traffic..... to top it all off the entire trip it died 3 times while i was moving. then thinking that maybe the headlights being off would help a little more i turned them off. this was a bad idea because when i did this the guage needles freaked again. also when i decided to turn the dash lights back on to see if it would affect it the dome lights came on when they shouldnt have.

i have been testing the battery with a tester that i bought years ago and from what i have seen its pretty damn accurate (http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(byq3cim012c43xfmrwiraxzt)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=998016888). it shows thebattery at full charge and the alternator at full charge when running. it does not however tell what the battery is at while running because of the alternator running and it testing that.

on another note i just went out to get the tester and the dome light would not come on, so i started it (which it actually did) and then it turned on.......

could this also possibly be a body control unit problem?

and i really appreciate the help on this guys.

The BCM controls just about all electrical systems on the van. The BCM is a main player on the data bus.

ok, i will have to do some checking and as soon as i find anything out i will let you guys know. if only i had my tracker up here i wouldnt have to worry about it now.....

just to update everyone. it seems to have stopped just by shutting off the dome lights. oddest thing i have ever seen on a car......

so im going to check the relay for it and maybe replace it and a couple of others if they turn out bad and go from there.

thanks for the advice guys.

does anyone know where i can find the information for testing the relays?
i have searched for it but cant find it and my manuals have nothing on it.
if i can test them all then i can see which one is bad.
on a good note though its been a week and everything seems to have been solved by just turning off the dome lights......

Usually, the relays will have the connections stamped on them.

If you remove the plastic case from the relay, you will be able to actually see the coils and the actuator. Apply power to one side and ground to the other, and you'll see it move, and possibly hear it make noise. IF it moves freely, and provides power to the switched portion of the relay, it's good.

unfortunately mine dont.... i have checked all of them and there are only 2 that have testing unstruction on them and they are the only 2 of that kind. the rest have no information what so ever.

Then test the wiring for them, or check out a wiring diagram for your truck. (Yes, it's a truck.)

Then you have to take the relays apart and figure out which pins are for the switch and which pins are pass-through.

damnit! i was trying to be a little lazy! :P

no i will do that and see what i can find out. :)