Possibly blown Pioneer 6900UB cd player
matrx10503
01-29-2009, 11:56 PM
Ok....so I went inside my dash to try and fix a problem and ended up even more screwed
When I cut my car off...and back on none of my audio settings ever saved. So I was reading...they said the red and yellow wire could be backwards or something. So im took my player out and looked at harness try and see maybe if I did do it backwards......well, nothing seems backwards
But as I was moving wires around......my red wire was bare (yeah, I know....bad bad) and maybe one or two more.....the ACC (battery, yellow) and Ground (black) was NOT bare, all wrapped
but somehow........some wires touched each other or possible it grounded out on bare metal or SOMETHING
But sparks flew.......and player won't turn on anymore
No smell came from the player........no smoke, nothing, seemed fine, but won't power on anymore
It has a 10-fuse on the ACC/yellow line...but its not blown and I know its feeding power (which means the fusebox radio 10a is not blown either)
I hooked up another player, just to see if it gets power and it does (did not play anything, just tested for power)
On Pioneers...known for on the Red wire......it has an inline resistor.........could that be blown causing the problem? can I just bypass the resistor and run the wire straight?
Or......could you enlighten me on anything else I could not be thinking of?
Thanks
When I cut my car off...and back on none of my audio settings ever saved. So I was reading...they said the red and yellow wire could be backwards or something. So im took my player out and looked at harness try and see maybe if I did do it backwards......well, nothing seems backwards
But as I was moving wires around......my red wire was bare (yeah, I know....bad bad) and maybe one or two more.....the ACC (battery, yellow) and Ground (black) was NOT bare, all wrapped
but somehow........some wires touched each other or possible it grounded out on bare metal or SOMETHING
But sparks flew.......and player won't turn on anymore
No smell came from the player........no smoke, nothing, seemed fine, but won't power on anymore
It has a 10-fuse on the ACC/yellow line...but its not blown and I know its feeding power (which means the fusebox radio 10a is not blown either)
I hooked up another player, just to see if it gets power and it does (did not play anything, just tested for power)
On Pioneers...known for on the Red wire......it has an inline resistor.........could that be blown causing the problem? can I just bypass the resistor and run the wire straight?
Or......could you enlighten me on anything else I could not be thinking of?
Thanks
PaulD
01-30-2009, 05:46 AM
I think they have a small fuse on the back of the player itelf
matrx10503
01-30-2009, 05:58 PM
blahh!!
thx for response
im prob. gonna have to take to repair shop.....prob. something like internal fuse blown or something
out of my league :-(
thx for response
im prob. gonna have to take to repair shop.....prob. something like internal fuse blown or something
out of my league :-(
Galuple
01-30-2009, 07:27 PM
Pioneers have a microfuse inside which are known for blowing ridiculously easy.
PaulD
01-30-2009, 07:28 PM
most of them that are fused have a small fuse on the outside on the back where the connector is.
matrx10503
02-06-2009, 02:57 PM
The player wasn't blown......a pop and smoke on wire....but player just fine
I was just having wiring issues......and my yellow/red were backwards, so my player works...and my memory works
ok Paul D aka my resident expert I got one for ya!!
My amp pushes 240x2 RMS at 4ohm (bridged)....and thats what I neeed since my subs are 600w max and 300w RMS
They are Dual Voice Coul 4ohm......wired in series therefore....the speakers are 8ohms
......How can I achieve a 4 ohm load
Someone mentioned twisting the wires together, then bridging the amp
What load will my amp see then?
I was just having wiring issues......and my yellow/red were backwards, so my player works...and my memory works
ok Paul D aka my resident expert I got one for ya!!
My amp pushes 240x2 RMS at 4ohm (bridged)....and thats what I neeed since my subs are 600w max and 300w RMS
They are Dual Voice Coul 4ohm......wired in series therefore....the speakers are 8ohms
......How can I achieve a 4 ohm load
Someone mentioned twisting the wires together, then bridging the amp
What load will my amp see then?
PaulD
02-06-2009, 06:14 PM
you're subs are 8 ohm OR 2 ohm. The best way is a parallel/seiries combo. I was going to try and explain it, but here is a diagram
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg
matrx10503
02-06-2009, 07:17 PM
yeah.....thing is.....there is a wall separating the subs
and I would have to drill holes to run all those extra wires from speaker-to-speaker
thats why I was wondering....with (2) 2ohm or (2) 8ohm...twisting the wires together, would it double the load or halfen the load?
and I would have to drill holes to run all those extra wires from speaker-to-speaker
thats why I was wondering....with (2) 2ohm or (2) 8ohm...twisting the wires together, would it double the load or halfen the load?
PaulD
02-07-2009, 07:50 AM
that diagram is where the speaker coils are in series at the sub and the two subs are in parallel (I guess thi is what you are calling "twisting them together"). How are they wired right now ?
matrx10503
02-07-2009, 04:00 PM
2 seperate boxes....wired in parallel = 2ohm load
+ and - wire running from each box
twisting them together means....twist both + wires and both - wires together going to the amp
that should create a 4 ohm load......it should double...2ohm+2ohm=4ohm
Correct?
+ and - wire running from each box
twisting them together means....twist both + wires and both - wires together going to the amp
that should create a 4 ohm load......it should double...2ohm+2ohm=4ohm
Correct?
PaulD
02-08-2009, 09:11 AM
ok, do the "wire twisting" for each sub, that will make each sub 2 ohms. There should be 2 wires coming out of each box. Take the + from one box and connect it the the - from the other box and tape that up. Connect the other + and - to the amp. That will be a 4 ohm load.
Twisting the wires as you call it is wiring them in parallel, it doesn't add impedance - it cuts them in half (for two speakers or voice coils). That's why you have to do parallel on one set of connections and series on the other set.
parallel = both + tied together and both - tied together
series = one + to amp, the - that goes with it tied the the other +, and the last - to the amo
Twisting the wires as you call it is wiring them in parallel, it doesn't add impedance - it cuts them in half (for two speakers or voice coils). That's why you have to do parallel on one set of connections and series on the other set.
parallel = both + tied together and both - tied together
series = one + to amp, the - that goes with it tied the the other +, and the last - to the amo
matrx10503
02-09-2009, 02:38 AM
I don't know what I was thinking.....(or rather not thinking)
if you have the base knowledge and apply it....everything else is basic common sense!!
all I had to do was THINK......parallel cut, then to counteract that, you series to double....
you are the 5-Star General...and will be receiving your medal shortly :-) CHEERS
Hmm....im going to get no gain with this amp+speaker setup
with series the subs will share the power, soo 240w/2=120 per speaker
and my amp already pushes 120w at 2ohm stable through all 4 channels
The only way I would get my full...is wire each voice coil independently to my amp 4 channels
But w/e.....I knew the best option is a new amp, that's a no-brainer
ohh well no love, no lost
This was a nice refresher....that will help me later on on other installs
if you have the base knowledge and apply it....everything else is basic common sense!!
all I had to do was THINK......parallel cut, then to counteract that, you series to double....
you are the 5-Star General...and will be receiving your medal shortly :-) CHEERS
Hmm....im going to get no gain with this amp+speaker setup
with series the subs will share the power, soo 240w/2=120 per speaker
and my amp already pushes 120w at 2ohm stable through all 4 channels
The only way I would get my full...is wire each voice coil independently to my amp 4 channels
But w/e.....I knew the best option is a new amp, that's a no-brainer
ohh well no love, no lost
This was a nice refresher....that will help me later on on other installs
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