brakes...

When i brake it seems that the wheel tries to turn to the right. Is there a way to adjust the brakes? Last night it was raining really bad and when i braked the wheel didn't seem to do this anymore.

I think the right front caliper is hanging up I would put the front on jack stands. Rotate the front tires by hand and check if the right has more drag than the left. You might need a rebuilt caliper and clean all hardware.
If the back check for a leaking wheel cylinder or broken spring. Pull both drums and check.

When i brake it seems that the wheel tries to turn to the right. Is there a way to adjust the brakes? Last night it was raining really bad and when i braked the wheel didn't seem to do this anymore.

when this occurs usually its because the driverside front brake pads are worn out...or it is a hardware problem like caliper rusted or pins need cleaning and lube...also a good bleed....

you will be required to remove the front tires and check for pad wear is it even on all 4...if one side is worn more than the other this means something is not moving freely....on that worn side....

Most quality pads have wear indicators which make a high pitched noise. Some people do bend them but most don't bend them.

when this occurs usually its because the driverside front brake pads are worn out...or it is a hardware problem like caliper rusted or pins need cleaning and lube...also a good bleed....

you will be required to remove the front tires and check for pad wear is it even on all 4...if one side is worn more than the other this means something is not moving freely....on that worn side....

i never put two and two together but you mentioned that its most likely my drivers side pads, which recently i've been getting squeaking from. And as i mentioned the wheel turns to the right when i brake. I mean i checked all front pads and they have plenty of meat left from what i can see. (I didn't remove them though.) So apparently i better have a closer look.

One question though. On my 83 would it have a "dummy" light on the dash if there was something "seriously" wrong with my brakes or no? I do know theres a light for if the emergency brake is on though.

i never put two and two together but you mentioned that its most likely my drivers side pads, which recently i've been getting squeaking from. And as i mentioned the wheel turns to the right when i brake. I mean i checked all front pads and they have plenty of meat left from what i can see. (I didn't remove them though.) So apparently i better have a closer look.

One question though. On my 83 would it have a "dummy" light on the dash if there was something "seriously" wrong with my brakes or no? I do know theres a light for if the emergency brake is on though.

on the brake light you will only see that when you blow a brake line, then the pressure diff between front / rear will throw the dash red brake light on thats it on the 1983....

if the caliper is binding and not moving with ease it is most likely causing the problem of your wheels turning to the right..

I use a C clamp and squeeze the caliper piston back and compare both sides this will reveal the side thats too stiff/binding...

A broken wheel bearing can also cause problems pulling on a turn.

A broken wheel bearing can also cause problems pulling on a turn.

if the wheel bearing where bad it would make a constant drone noise...that would vary in pitch when turning left or right....when braking the bearing should not effect in any way the steering direction as the front brakes have more friction than a bad bearing will ever do...unless it blew up into little pieces..then brakes would not even be mentioned...

I've found the rotor is not sitting straight when a bearing is bad. As the caliper closes it pulls the rotor into a straight position. This tends to pull the vehicle. I did a pickup and he ran the bearing dry and so hot even the 4x4 gears were bad. A very expensive job.
Usually the pads are smoking when the brakes pull.

More than likely it is either a sticking caliper or bad brake hose, which collapse internally and look fine on the outside.

Bob

I've found the rotor is not sitting straight when a bearing is bad. As the caliper closes it pulls the rotor into a straight position. This tends to pull the vehicle. I did a pickup and he ran the bearing dry and so hot even the 4x4 gears were bad. A very expensive job.
Usually the pads are smoking when the brakes pull.

if THIS vehicle had a bearing problem that you just described the tires would be smoking by chaffing on the front stabilizer bar....

the clearance is nil...

More than likely it is either a sticking caliper or bad brake hose, which collapse internally and look fine on the outside.

Bob
on a vehicle this old the bad hose or a hose that is restricted internally some how is a good suggestion...

on a vehicle this old the bad hose or a hose that is restricted internally some how is a good suggestion...

This is definately related. The hoses are old and stiff and i'm surprised the lines are still without any punctures they're that bad..and yet i still drive the car around. i'll take a look this weekend.

If you understand how the calipers work the rubber ring in the caliper stretches it is round like an o ring but rectangle shaped. As the piston moves toward the caliper this rubber stretches. When you take your foot off the brake it goes back to its origional shape. This loosens the pad which is rubbing against the rotor. I had a break clinic at my garage and the pad manufacturer showed a movie. They had a picture of this working. You might not believe it until you see it but their is no springs to retract the pad. Hoses do cause problems but dried out rubber in the calipers goes bad more often.

If you understand how the calipers work the rubber ring in the caliper stretches it is round like an o ring but rectangle shaped. As the piston moves toward the caliper this rubber stretches. When you take your foot off the brake it goes back to its origional shape. This loosens the pad which is rubbing against the rotor. I had a break clinic at my garage and the pad manufacturer showed a movie. They had a picture of this working. You might not believe it until you see it but their is no springs to retract the pad. Hoses do cause problems but dried out rubber in the calipers goes bad more often.

this rubber you refer to is the weather boot..all it does is keep the water from getting to the caliper piston...if the pads where not installed correctly or if this boot was not retracted into it's self properly the boot will get a hole in it...then the caliper piston will rust or the caliper housing will rust causing the piston to stick...

the release of brake pressure causes the piston to retract...

In an emergency where this caliper piston seizes , causing the vehicle to be unable to be driven [if you know what your doing] you remove the pads then push down on the brake pedal...the piston will fall out then remove rust as best you can with a screw driver .file etc so piston moves easy in the caliper bore ..
the boot will get damaged ,,this is just to be able to get back where you will replace the front calipers...

you then put the piston back give it a bleed and you'll get home...

The next time you do a break job remove the boot. Put a piece of wood where the break pad goes then put an air nozzle and blow out the piston. The item will be very visable. Apparently you never rebuilt a caliper.
http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/installu_pages/donations/brake_caliper_rebuild.htm
Look at the picture of a GM kit.
http://www.goldlinebrakes.com/FAQs.htm

bhw,

In my '85, my car often pulls to the right for a split second when braking, then just goes straight ahead. I have the original calipers and hoses. I guess the pressure to the left front pads is a little slow, so it pulls to the right for that fraction of a second. I keep passing inspection, so I don't f with it.

On the other hand, my 88 Firebird GTA failed inspection once for a bad pull to the right on braking. Turned out to be the front left brake hose. Collapsed internally, I guess. New brake hose, problem gone. Cheap fix.

RC

this rubber you refer to is the weather boot..all it does is keep the water from getting to the caliper piston...if the pads where not installed correctly or if this boot was not retracted into it's self properly the boot will get a hole in it...then the caliper piston will rust or the caliper housing will rust causing the piston to stick...

the release of brake pressure causes the piston to retract...

In an emergency where this caliper piston seizes , causing the vehicle to be unable to be driven [if you know what your doing] you remove the pads then push down on the brake pedal...the piston will fall out then remove rust as best you can with a screw driver .file etc so piston moves easy in the caliper bore ..
the boot will get damaged ,,this is just to be able to get back where you will replace the front calipers...

you then put the piston back give it a bleed and you'll get home...

I actually think now that my front brakes are somewhat locking up. I don't think the extreme cold we've been having is helping either. When i let go of my brakes what i think is happening is the front pistons retract, but they do it slower than usual.

I used to rebuild them but the cost of rebuilt was the cost or less of a kit.
They are very sensitive of dirt and moisture. Bad dust boots allow dirt next to the hydraulic seal and damage it. Look at both links and notice the hydraulic seal which is their in place. Anybody whose done hydraullic work realizes a metal to metal seal doesn't hold high pressure break fluid. Look at a wheel cylinder most people have had them leak.

The next time you do a break job remove the boot. Put a piece of wood where the break pad goes then put an air nozzle and blow out the piston. The item will be very visable. Apparently you never rebuilt a caliper.
http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/installu_pages/donations/brake_caliper_rebuild.htm
Look at the picture of a GM kit.
http://www.goldlinebrakes.com/FAQs.htm


the use of your method is what would be done in a repair shop...not on the side of the road in an emergency caliper sieze condition..this method is very well used though because you don't get brake fluid blowing on the other componets/paint....and you ..

I have rebuilt many calipers of varying sizes...much larger than used on small private owned vehicles...

you have not seen yet a rust belt caliper..these rust out as I described.. the seal gets a hole in it and corrosion rusts the piston /bore..then the caliper gets stuck...thats what happens to these vehicles in the rust belt..

you can't rebuild then because it is rusted or the seals are no longer available ...If you are hurting for money the scrap yard has many calipers of good quality that can be used when the vehicle is well over 10yrs old ...for a very low price..with hoses ...

bhw,

In my '85, my car often pulls to the right for a split second when braking, then just goes straight ahead. I have the original calipers and hoses. I guess the pressure to the left front pads is a little slow, so it pulls to the right for that fraction of a second. I keep passing inspection, so I don't f with it.

On the other hand, my 88 Firebird GTA failed inspection once for a bad pull to the right on braking. Turned out to be the front left brake hose. Collapsed internally, I guess. New brake hose, problem gone. Cheap fix.

RC

your hose problem is not that common ,your brake pull could have also been contaminated brake fluid...

when new pads are to be installed open the bleed fitting THEN push the piston back....this will then remove all the piston fluid from the brake system...this will in most cases cure uneven braking when everything checks out ..if it doesn't then the hose ...